EvilC

The 73 car was just bought on ebay not to long ago. That car comes from NY and made its way down to Fl and back up to Ga. The lady who owned it, sold it last year from 10k! She really needed the money. A guy I met via internet bought it and then offered it to me for 15k....nice but I like hotrods....then he listed it on Ebay which is sold for alil over 20K and now for sale for $35k. I have seen lots of pics of this car and let me tell you...it is GREAT! Randy should get $30k for it but today's market makes that pretty hard. If you want a restored s30 and just want to drive it....there ya go. As for #17.....second to #16. Those early 1969 Zs have an extra 10k price on them just because of how rare they are. I am not a purist and not made from money...but if I had the chance to own a very rare Z I would because I do love the car. In the same statement, our Zs will never be worth American muscle cars....and I think our cars are peeking in value now. As the generation who grew up with the car slowly dies off...so will the "true" following too.

lol @ work I am called Clive "Boogie Down" Bogle Boogie Down comes from the nick name for The Bronx (nyc) where I am from.

Wow, where did you find that dash?

Well...my last name is BOGLE! lol I know hard to read with my hand writing. Hmm, maybe I gotta think of this Nascar style some more...I go away for lunch and you guys come up with a bunch of things. If my name changes to "cletus".....Joe you and I will have a talk =P I have the perfect name for you b.

That sounds like a much better plan!

Chris, I believe Dave (Cygnusx1) has a p90a head....and Joe (rags) may have some p90 heads laying aorund

Wheels shipped today!

So the other day I was thinking I could paint my name on the car like them Nascar boys do. It is just an idea but wanted to see how many of you think it is silly. This would be going on the v8 car. It would look something like this...of couse much neater and cleaner looking. I might like it for about 2 months and then wish I never did it

Here is proof that Justin was in The Bronx (NYC) and partying. He will post more pics lata I guess:

Lots of trimming I see! Huge wheels.....nice!

I think it will look great! I was just too scared to be BOLD and try the wheels all black. How long is the turn around time on that and I believe Justin took apart and reassembled his wheels not to long ago when he had the lips done in red.

FYI, you have 17x9 with 4.75 backspace fronts and 17x10.5 with 5.5 backspace rears. I was doing a search over the weekend and found your specs Can't wait to get em!

The 71 car is now at the body shop to get the engine bay done and test mount the CF ZGs that were dropped off by Justin himself. Also the order was placed for the CCWs 17x9.5 fronts, 17x11 rears. Hope to start getting the old v8 car apart in 4 weeks or so. Only thing that may slow/delay that is a track day coming up this month Next thing for the v8 car is to order new engine mounts, ud pulley and intake. Time to sell more parts! Here is the car on its way to the body shop: Justin (280zforce) in the back ground:

Thanks guys, I just took the great info and posted it. My head will be going out again to be "fixed" will let you guys know how it goes and what was done.

Ok, I am going with: 17x11 with -13 offset 5.5 inch back space JustinOlson- The ttt setup does not change the offset of the rear on our Zs. I called ttt to make sure that was true when it was stated in a thread. Evildky- Those are some huge wheels you are running! What flares are you using?

Well with todays snow storm, it gives you another few weeks to get the r/t mount in. Can't wait to see/hear the OBX unit in action. With the r/t mount and shifter done, it will be like a "new" !

So there might be a another change coming with the rear wheel. I am waiting for John to get back to me but Justin (280zforce) thought my -19 offset at 11.5 wide wheel may be a tad to big. With that offset I was going with a 5.5 bs but I know Mike (z-gad) has a 11.5 wide with -6 offset and a 6 inch bs. That seems like ALOT but Mike says he has plenty of room. Soooooo I may go with that backspace to be "safe" or I can just knock the wheel size down to 11 wide. Hmm......don't want to rush because I really want them =P

For those who are noobs like myself and really wanting to understand what/why head work is needed...I hope this post can help out. I was able to contact a few guys I know who know their L motors and recap concerns and thoughts. Here was my original picture that I had some concerns with: That is a stock untouched chamber. It has only been bead blasted, No valve unshrouding was performed. You see the factory machine marks on the chamber wall beside the valve. Both intake and exhaust will have this. Some shops idea of valve unshrouding is using a dedicated cutter that just knocks back the chamber wall, which technically, is unshrouding, but only for the sake of calling it that, not for the sake of gaining air flow, which is why we unshroud the valves in the first place. A true performance port job that includes valve unshrouding, even if done with a machine, is still hand worked to some degree or another, regardless! Intake Ports: The taper from the apex at the top of the injector slot is not consistent. Air flow wise it doesn't matter much but it may show the quality of the port work throughout. The inlets are not round or smooth. None of the bolt holes have been chamfered. They don’t really need to be, but it helps in keeping the aluminum that is adjacent the fastener from bulging out keeping the gasket from getting a nice flat seal between the head and manifold. On a decked block, chamfering the head bolt holes is mandatory, PERIOD! Here is how the chamfer on the deck of the engine block should look, (sorry guys this was the only picture I was able to find on HBZ (head with chamfered holes)); Here are some pictures of a TRUE valve unshrouding. I was able to find this via search and thanks to Paul for letting me borrow these pics for my write up. Here are some pics of intake ports. Note how the entrance is round, not jagged. Also note the injector slots are consistent as they should be and not how mine are. Another picture showing the port walls are smooth from the entrance to the seat. So for a future head build here are some pointers to remember and think about. Also I would copy the pics here and make sure the machine shop can see what you are trying to describe to them. If the step in the roof of the exhaust port was not reduced then all that work in the intake port was for nothing. Porting an L-6 square port head, in order of priority based on the air flow restrictions “through†the head, 1st is to unshroud the valves, a close 2nd is reduce the step in the roof of the exhaust port surrounding the exhaust valve guide. This picture should help illustrate that. Note the hump where the valve guide resides is less pronounced in this picture vs a stock exhaust port. So in the end my head needs a little more work and I hope to have it corrected. I hope this all made sense and a better understanding was made to why we port/polish the head and why unshrouding "the correct way" is important.

Classiczcars.com Word to the wise....sounds like you need to start with a cleaner car Resto will cost you over 15K....maybe!

Justin is here at my house, we got a few things planned this week with cygnusx1, rags, buzz, jasper...anyone else need to hang out wit Z guys...hit me up.

Is this to fix for a daily or flip for part money?

I wish I had a garage! One day when I get out of the folks house...=) As for the art: The first 2 and last two in one frame are from http://www.bre2.net/ Which I had them all signed by Pete Brock The other poster is from MSA the "ZEAL" poster which I am not sure if it is still around...might be. David help me find a great framer and there poster will be in great shape for years to come.

Well just got my posters back from the framer and boy they do look great! Of course I have to figure out how I am going to fit them all in my room....my mother said no to the idea of putting one in the living room :stupid: When I get them mounted on a wall I will take some better pics for ya but enjoy for now. There are a few other posters I saw I would love to have in my collection. I was just born a few years late!

Xnke, exactly! I was reading through other post and saw that maybe I didn't get the chamber unshrouded enough..... maybe the experts can chime in here. Here is some of the info I had read and pic I saved. Maybe I can finish up the next step myself based on Paul's pic I posted. Anyone know the % increase of flow that this step produces? I know it may be a silly question...don't yell at the newbie! lol jmortensen- You want to smooth the area from around the valve seat so that there isn't a ridge around the seat. This will allow the head to flow better at low lift. You want the max open area around the side of the valve where it comes closest to the headgasket. This is the unshrouding part. What you need to do is take the headgasket and lay it on the head, then use a scribe to mark where the headgasket sits on the head. Don't go past the line, because you don't want the top of the headgasket exposed. Then you grind away until the max amount of room is available around the side of the valve. BRAAP- And a P-90 that we just shipped out this week.

Well I had some time to snap some pics for you guys of my parts back from the machine shop. Please voice and concerns or thoughts that come to your head because I am trying to learn here. I took some nice size pics so you guys can see some of the work done. Next week I hope to take the other parts to the machine shop and get them balanced. Enjoy for now! P90 Head: Notice anything? Gasket Matching of the ports: Port n Polish...3 angle valve job: Light Weight Nissan Comp Retainers: Ready to be cleaned and painted: Bore n Hone: