EvilC

lmao!

Pristine!!! How bad did yours look? Did you have plenty of metal shaving in your axle boots? My rear does make some noise at the track like you said but 1 tuff z who is running the EXACT setup has no noise... I am going to take some measurements and probably have the faces of the stops machined down. Also I am going to check and see if the c clip came off the axle.....maybe it is time to get some input from Ross. I am pm him this thread.

Exactly! I will say when I first drove my Z on the street "hard" it felt like it always wanted to break loose and I was at the limit of the car but when I tracked it.....I found out I was mistaken. I believe it will take years to fully understand and learn what I am "feeling" in the car. I spoke to Johnc once on the phone about sway bars and suspension setups and it was great help! Silly enough, I have forgot the specs my car was in before I took it apart....and few people including 1 tuff z has driven my car and says it tracks a lot nicer than his car. On a side note, when I was building my car...I changed one part at a time to understand and "feel" what each one does. With that, you learn the new limit or the behavior of the car.

Start with question above.....well back in the day when I put the car together. Someone (I) forgot to tighten down the 6 bolts on the driver side cv...so while shaking the car down...the axle and cv came apart...and the stop went flying down the highway. While searching for it down the highway I found $20 that help pay for the tow back to the shop Ok, to address the stop and axle spinning at different rates...please someone check my engineering logic here: Pasn side wheel: Under load, the rear wheel would move upward, this would cause the axle to change its angle relative to the stop that stays vertical, this in return would have the axle move inward toward the stop hitting it at an angle. Besides hitting it and making a mark, the axle and stop are spinning at differnt angular speeds due to their angle to the y axis. The axle, I am logically trying to reason here is spinning faster than the stop and cv joint diff side. Does that make sense? Does the outter wheel rotate faster than the cv joint on the diff? Wish I could draw what my mind is showing me. Let me know what you guys think. That o ring idea is great! I still wonder if it helps with my above idea? I think the stop after a while is more "stuck" to the diff cv and spinning at that speed and not the axle speed.....follow me? Sorry if what I say sounds out of wack.

Thanks for the reply!!! Ok so I know I am not going crazy: 1. The axles are of equal length 2. The stops are installed the right way As far as them being "loose", I would have to say yes. Meaning, if I had the entire assembly in my hand: [axle stop]-----------------[axle stop] and I turned it over like this: [axle stop] l l l l l l [axle stop] the bottom axle stop would fall out. Now comes the question, is that a problem? I figured if the cv end and hub end of the diff were bolted together then this shouldn't be a problem. Also this wouldn't explain the marks and how did the pasn side become so bad! Did what I say make sense? It seems like the pasn side axle stop, stopped moving and got drilled by the axle. Is yours loose?

Ha, I was going to say...I am selling the car! Here is another thread I started about the q45 swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1005895#post1005895 Small progress everyday.....I can't wait til this car is back together

Many of you know I am pulling my Z apart to swap into another Z. I wanted to go through some of the parts and see how they are holding up after 8k miles. Now I have found something and wondering did I install this backwards or if I my train of thought is correct. I believe when doing the q45 diff swap, the axles are of equal length from MM. The axle stops are used to keep the axle from coming out of the assemble towards the diff. Well here is what my diff stops look like (diff side): Driver side: Pasn side: Now the driver side marks kinda made sense to me, because if the axle moves around it will hit the stop and there for making the mark we see. Pasn side makes no sense to me! First off, when I was at Watkins Glen...the hard right hand turn out of the bus stop I could hear the axle moving from side to side. If you look at the stop, it looks like the axle was acting like a drill bit and eating away at the material. Confusing to me because I would imaging the stop rotates as does the axle...how could the stop be held stationary while the axle turns "drilling" it? Now I am thinking did I install this backwards? This is how I have it installed (stop going toward the axle): Or should it be with the stop going towards the diff which I don't think it does: Any input would be great, I guess I can try and get in touch with Ross. I just found it weird and wonder if anyone ran into any problems like this. I have been thinking that the diff points slightly towards the pasn side of the tranny tunnel and maybe..a small maybe.....means that the pasn side axle needs to be slightly shorter? I plan to pull the entire axle down this week and check the other stops (wheel side) and see that they look like. Thanks!

Pics: I will email TTT tonight and give them some pics and measurements I took and they will make another diff mount for me and I hope it will be a model for anyone else who needs one for an early Z 69-71.

From 72 til 78 is all the same, do you mean a zx?

Dave took care of me and sprayed my intake this weekend. This is what it looked like when done: This looks way better than I thought it would! I really really do like it! So, this weekend I was able to pull my crack free dash out so Joe (rags) and I can get started on it to clean up wiring and get it ready for the new car....well my lil sister was placing her pc in the car this weekend and dropped it on the dash...therefor the dash now has a hole in it Sh*t happens I guess...I was very upset seeing that this is the second dash I lost in a month or so. Didn't yell at her though I know she didn't mean to. Back to the Z, I thought I can use the brake booster from the 73 on the 71...I knew the 73 was bigger but didn't realize it mounting points were different too. So I need to paint the 71 booster and get it installed. Also plan to do the pulley and intake during the week. Had a problem with the JCI pasn side mount...after about 6k miles the mount was torn: I called....answer was due to the fact I was using the compression of the motor to stop the car help break the mount Anyway ordered a new one $14.50 and now it is here....I plan to go to the local parts store and figure out what model car it comes from...pic and part number coming soon.

I think 25 people has completed the swap since this thread

I will get some pics for you this weekend. I spoke to Rick @ TTT and he is willing to make another mount for me that fits the series one cars. I will shoot him some pics and numbers and hopefully I can have one back within a month or so. That was a great help from TTT!!!!

So I got the UD pulley today! Also came across a little problem with the q45 front diff mount...to keep up with that see this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1004770#post1004770 I will take some more pics tomorrow of how the car sits and try and get it (silver car) ready for the new owner to do his swap. Might have the motor back in this weekend and test fit of the new wheels!

Let me start off by saying, I have never had an early 240z until I started to swap my v8 drive train over to this car. All of my stuff is coming out of my 73 240z. So I always heard people say, "early diff mount position" and never really care to see what it looks like....silly me! Ok I have the TTT (techno toy tuning) q45 front diff mount and I notice while just getting things into place for the paint shop that the mount is "short" on the bolt holes to be used to mount it to the old mounting point of the strap. This is due to the "front" mount position of the series one early 240z. The later models 72 and on came with the "back" mount position of the diff which also moved the 4 holes for the strap. I am wondering if anyone ran into this problem and have a fix. I am thinking I am going to have to weld another section onto the mount to make it work. I would really hate to start hacking up the nice mount Also because I have been chasing a vibration problem...this is the last thing I need....drive train angles to be out of wack. So maybe someone has pics of "front" and "rear" mounted 240 diffs, it would be a great addition to this thread...thanks guys!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146190

Well bought an intake which is a lightly used ported FAST 90 intake with a Nick Williams 90 TB...very nice! I plan to paint the intake black. Intake: Port: So I have to get some new intake gaskets and get a new belt for the ne UD pulley...pics of it all when it comes in the mail.

Just let me know when you need some helping hands...I can take a trip down to philly...we can get some work done! Thanks for the comments...I love the pic and besides the LS1 it looks like the 70's in the shop. It is my background pic now.

Lets go this year!

Well you will find that this looks very good when done right. I believe it to be durable because the local hobby shop use to paint the bodies with this paint and after a season the paint was in decent shape. I say decent shape because a RC car takes its share of abuse and the motor being so close to the paint didn't discolor it at all. Can't wait to see what the tail light trims look like when you spray em.

I hope it goes...I need more seat time! lol Mike still sitting on that motor?! lmao!!!

I went with the Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance. Fronts are 255/40/17 Rears are 315/35/17 300 tread wear....I will see how much I like these tires. I had to get something that will last a little longer than the Toyo that had a 220 wear to them. First track day will be in June so I will report back on how I like em after that. I think for the street they will be fine....rain...I dunno.

No you are right. I forgot to add that part. Basically guys, just take the motor and trans out the way you put it in...from the top That will save you the time and fustration that I went through...but it was ok becuse I had company.

Rick, nice! I got my wheels mounted BUT forgot to take pics. I will get some this week for everyone. I love the wheels!! Can't wait to see them mounted.

So HUGE HUGE HUGE weekend! Have to thank Joe (Rags) for coming by Friday and working with me from 6pm-1am and then stopping by again for moral support Saturday for a few hours. Dave (Cygnusx1) also came by Saturday and gave me a hand for a few hours to pull rear ends out of both cars. Basically I have to have the cars off my dad's lift by Sunday night for opening of bizz Monday morning. Here are a few pics of my long weekend! Looks like the 70s.... Swapping rear ends: New home for v8: LS1: Myself n Joe: Plans are to take a break for a day or two. Order a few more parts and maybe get the motor in by mid next week. I am going to pull the intake and TB off and sell them if anyone is looking for a ls6 intake and port n polished TB. New set of plugs needs to go in and do the UD pulley and new belt. I will update some more when I upload the other pics. Got more done than I thought I would be able to do for a weekend! Here are some more pics: Sunday Night: Almost done breaking her down: Word to the wise....when pulling the LSx out of our Zs like it is a F-body....headers and coil packs should be removed. I didn't do this at first and it slowed me up big time. Looks cool though right? =):