EvilC

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pontiac-Trans-Am-FORMULA-2000-PONTIAC-TRANS-AM-LS1-6-SPD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a3Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem320337357336QQitemZ320337357336QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks Good deal for any of you guys looking to do the swap and willing to do a little extra work.

moon rover...reminded me of nyc

I am sitting in the car on google map!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am right in front of my dad's shop getting ready to open it on a Sunday to work on the Z.....I am sitting in my DD 99 626 Mazda.

I went to the local parts store and found a u shaped heater hoses with the correct sizes at the end. I will try and get a pic.

I just looped my two ends from the block together and have not had any colling problems. That includes track days and a drive down to Daytona!

Get the car running?

Are those VW seats....Recaro's?

I will be in Va next week and I have a very clean hatch will a whale tail.... let me know.

Small update: The "red" car is almost stripped.....just need to remove the bumpers, lights and hatch and it will be a rolling shell. Int is out, engine bay is cleaned and ready to go. Plan is to give the car to paint shop and they will paint the engine bay and prep the car. I will get it back to put the motor in (while I am at it, I will do the UD pulley, 92 fast intake) and get the car running. Send it back and then we should have a running LS1 car again!

Thats the Bronx for you.

Looks close to the door that was on the last parts car

Where in NY are you?

Those tires and snow/ice.... don't mix. Glad you are ok.

Thanks for the great info again.

I will have to look into this.

I asked the question below in another thread and got some really good info so I thought I would give it it's own thread question and answer: EvilC: Is our L6 motor an internally or externally balanced motor? The reason I ask is: say I am building a motor, do I get the crank, piston/rods and flywheel all balanced together or just the internal components together only. My train of thought is, I would not get the flywheel balanced with the “motor” because say 5 yrs down the road I change flywheel and clutch setup, I would have to pull the motor apart. If I statically get the flywheel balanced alone each time, no mater how many changes I make…the motor itself will always be in balance. The flywheel is just the wild variable that will always change and only play a factor in the rotational mass that the motor has to over come. Is my train of thought correct or does everything has to be balanced together? Thanks guys! Answers –---> Careless: As stated in one of my building books (not word for word). balancing the rotating assembly, and then the rotating assembly with the addition of the damper, and then with the addition of the flywheel will get you into a closely balanced range so that any flywheel or balancer you put on from thereafter will be closer to a completely balanced package than a balanced rotating assembly with a separately balanced damper and flywheel. For the same reason, people balance with the disc and pressure plate bolted on too using the same procedure to install on an engine prior to installing the trans. Balancing all these components at once will ensure that further changes of the same parts (if they are zero balanced from factory, like most performance parts... or if you have them re-balanced alone if your engine is already together) will not cause severe imbalance. This is as close as you can get to having a rebalance of the entire rotating assembly (which is ridiculous for a hobbyist if you're changing just a flywheel or balancer) because you actually have something hanging off the ends of the crank that are closer to the finished weight/mass/balance than having nothing there at all. Doug71zt: You're on the right track. It is harder to balance the damper and flywheel without the crank to mount them on. So, you zero out the crank to have a starting point, then add and balance the flywheel, then the damper. Everything can then be replaced down the road without having to worry that you are throwing the balance. If you mounted up all the components at once, would you drill the crank, flywheel or damper to zero the assy out? The process I use to balance a new build is: Match the piston/pin weight Match the rod total weight/small end weight/big end weight. Now the recip. components are done, on to the rotating components: Zero balance the crank Zero balance the flywheel Zero balance the clutch housing Zero balance the damper. If you are rebuilding a factory-built Nissan motor with all the original parts, I have found that it is not really critical to balance the assy as they are very close from the factory. Worst I have seen is around 4 grams. They were correctly balanced from the factory, not thrown together like a GM V6..... If you are building something from scratch or a Frankenstein motor, then it is a good idea to balance it. I didn't do the clutch housing on this last engine because it was custom-built and balanced by the shop. They are internally balanced - to answer your first question. No external weights are required and the assy is at zero balance without damper or flywheel installed.

There is one for sale in MD for 950.

Thank you Doug71zt/Daeron/Carless! I am in the process of building a 3.0 and wanted to make sure my train of thought had some validation. I would love to see exactly how the machine shop balances each part. If you guys don't mind I am going to start another thread with my question and your answers so it does not get lost in this great thread.

Well if you have no debt, get the car you really want! lol I would vote M3.

David is ok......=P

Paul - Anyway for you to protect the surge tank? Man if you run over anything on the road at speed, I am afraid it will take that thing out! Don't mean to be a ball buster and not sure if you covered it in any other threads. Just asking.

Being that I just graduated a yr or so ago....if you have any school loans pay them FIRST. I make decent money and I bought a 99 mazda 626 and have been paying down all my debt like a mad man for the past year. Like it was stated, it makes no sense to make good money and piss it all away in a car payment. A friend of mine was in your same situation...job lined up...bought a brand new Evo MR and was paying $500+ a month and hates the car now..he is 25 and making 70k+. After the "joy" of having your brand new toy...you realize how much of a waste of money it is. Buy something that is nice to drive...save your money.....and make sure your job will be there before you start blowing cash. Honestly over 20k on a car right now would not be a smart move imo.

Based on this statement I have a few questions guys. Is our L6 motor an internally or externally balanced motor? The reason I ask is: say I am building a motor, do I get the crank, piston/rods and flywheel all balanced together or just the internal components together only. My train of thought is, I would not get the flywheel balanced with the “motor†because say 5 yrs down the road I change flywheel and clutch setup, I would have to pull the motor apart. If I statically get the flywheel balanced alone each time, no mater how many changes I make…the motor itself will always be in balance. The flywheel is just the wild variable that will always change and only play a factor in the rotational mass that the motor has to over come. Is my train of thought correct or does everything has to be balanced together? Thanks guys! Lots of good info here for newbies like me...lol

Also pictures....remember everyone's spending habits are down like the economy.

I was thinking the same......be nice to know if we helped....lol