Nismospek

Not too big of a deal to add an aero catch to the hood. I have seen some weld theirs in, I ended up using some L angle in aluminum that connects from the tower to the firewall with nuts and bolts. It doesn't have to be strong due to how our hood opens. I don't think the VQ35HR makes much sense to install unless you can get one dirt cheap or just happen to have one lying around. The VQ37 is just superior even when you take into account dealing with VVTI. From what I have read you can always swap 35 HR heads if you want full control over both camshafts. I plan to get mine tuned over the winter and will see what it makes to the wheels. I have been on a street tune for over a year with no top end. The street tune has been more than enough for the Z, tons of torque. I suspect I am around 280whp currently.

Yeah, but I haven't seen that pattern on any other car so I don't know what they came off.

Yeah its a waste of money, it was a major cosmetic mod for the car. I think it was over 1800 with the conversion lower manifold, fuel rails, and gtr intake and cover and that was with me purchasing everything second hand. In the end the intake doesn't probably net any hp. I really dislike the stock plastic intake. It does get people confused at shows when I pop the hood though.

Hi everyone, I am at a good point with my build and wanted to share its history since its one of the few running and driving VQ37 swapped Zs in the country. I am going on over a decade of ownership. I originally bought the car from New Mexico and brought it over to Colorado. Come to find out, it was once a Colorado car also. I picked it up in primer with a rebuilt engine but not really knowing too much about it since all I had were photos and the owners word. The previous owner used it for autocross. The entire interior was missing and it had a rats nest for wiring. I remember it had a switch to manually turn on the fans. It also had a full radiator support and driver side frame rail replacement from a donor Z. I got lucky that this was done really well, I have had no problems getting the car aligned over the years and it drives straight! I saved some money and got the car painted in black, the car was originally a yellow car. The painter actually welded in floor boards and frame rails and closed up the wheel wells from where they were cut for the ZG flares. The rear hatch had to get replaced since it had an inch of bondo over the key hole. Luckily, I was able to track a hatch from a 240Z in the junk yard (when is the last time you have seen that haha). I added sound deadner to the interior and then took the car to an upholstery shop to get the interior put it. I also added some nice gauges. I was able to source some cheap Watanabe 16 inch wheels from yahoo auction Japan. They were different colors but I ended up paying around 900 usd after air shipping them spent another 300 getting them powder coated. I also picked up my Recaro seats from Japan. To this day I have no idea what car they came from but they are one of my favorite parts of the car. The SUs where swapped out for a triple Mikuni 44s. I drove with those and even had them tuned but they were too finnicky at altitude. During this time I got into flipping carbs for resale. I didn't want to deal with the Mikunis and decided to swap to fuel injection. I ended going Jenvey ITBs on Haltech. This setup actually worked great for about a year and even made it to the main page of my local Cars and Coffee. Around that summer I started to develop some running problems where I was running too rich. On my way to the tuner the worst thing happened. The car caught fire. From what I could tell, the itbs backfired and caught the fuel line on fire. If anyone is running itbs on an L Series, I highly recommend an airbox. I got really lucky since a guy like 2 cars back behind me had a fire extinguisher and that the radiator hose blew and stopped the fire. I sent the car over to my tuner/builder and waited on my insurance adjuster to visit the car. I was able to get a full payout through Hagerty and that kickstarted the funds to get my Z back on the road again. I knew I was done with L series. I never really wanted to build something that close to race car since I mostly drive my Z on the streets and occasional canyons. I wanted to stick something Nissan that could remain relatively stock. Something I could start up and just drive. In the past I almost swapped VQ35HR motor and have always had that build in the back on my mind but I noticed that the engines were almost the same price as the bigger brother VQ37. So I went with a VQ37 out of an automatic AWD G37. The reason I chose that engine was to avoid 370z's had been driven hard and the auto engines were cheaper with less mileage. The only change to the block that I needed was a lower oil pan from a RWD VQ and its bolts. I sourced a transmission directly from Nissan since at that time it was actually only about 500 dollars more compared to a used transmission. I looked recently and it seems like the transmission have doubled in price since 2021 when I bought mine. Here are the photos of when I got her back. We ended up putting some flake in the engine bay since I grew up loving lowriders. I also installed a GTR intake conversion. It ended up being a bit of a hassle since the custom fuel rail didn't clear the injectors. We had to extend the fuel ports on the fuel rail to make them taller so that it could clear. I added a catch can since the car is set to vent to atmosphere. I pulled the headers and stripped them and cerakoted them also. The custom hood didn't make it out of the fire so I went carbon fiber. Next I ended up getting the intakes extended to the front of the car to make it a true cold air intake. I recently took the Z engine harness apart and reloomed it and fixed one of my turn signals. Come to find out one of the wires was cut off. With the help of Dave Irwin, I was able to track down all of my missing grounds and also why both lights would blink at the same time (bad switch). I had an extra parts turn signal switch which I harvested and was able to get everything to work out. I recently tackled getting my horn to work. I have never got it to work since my entire ownership. The guys at classiczcar forum really helped me trouble shoot it. Come to find out, my only horn didn't work and for some reason my steering rack wasn't grounded. This is pretty much where the car is now. I took her to a local car meet today and I am hoping to just get more seat time with her. If anyone has any questions about the car or the swap feel free to message me.

Have you mocked up the headers on yours? It looks like I am going to need to get the stock ones modified since they point towards the firewall.

What type of rods and pistons are on the stroker setup?

I believe the SK's were actually capable of of dealing with more boost, correct?

SOLD please close.

SOLD, Mods please close.

Need to get these sold to go ITB. 1150 Shipped CONUS.

Need to get these sold, want to go ITB. 750 Shipped CONUS.

http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/20

Bump, lowered asking price to 1300 OBO.

Bump, lowered asking price to 900 OBO.

Lowered asking price. 1350 OBO.

Have a triple set of SK 40mm carbs. Comes with isolators, filter gaskets, and master rebuild kits. Asking 1000 OBO. These use a combination of weber jets and mikuni pump jets and can be used in blow through turbo setups.

Figured that might be an issue. Really interested in WPC. Seems like its a treatment and not a coating.

Thanks for the info, its just seems that these builds are getting more expensive. I remember getting a quote for a Rebello stroker for around 7k, now similar builds are over 10k. I am slowly piecing together my build but longetivity is a big factor, so no boost or crazy compression. I will be running forged internals, but I am thinking about coatings for the crank and at the minimum getting the pistons ceramic coated. While doing research I came up with info on coating different parts of the head which I was unaware of.

Does anyone have any experience with ceramic coating. I know that its pretty common with pistons. It seems that you can do it to the exhaust ports and combustion chamber also. Don't really hear about it being used with L series builds. Whats everyone's view? I figured it would at least help longevity of the parts.

Buy my triple 40s, your ears and your Z will love it.

Looks like I am out of touch with the price on these. Reduced asking price to 1500 OBO.

Felpro for a budget, cometic metal hg if you have some money, Kameari if you are ballin.

It appears that the Wako 75S has been discontinued and has been replaced with two cams, the 75R and 79 Special. I was able to find a little bit of info here on the 75R which seems to be a little less aggressive than the 75S. Still waiting to hear back on the specs for the 79 Special. I was able to find some info on the 75R from this website http://www.geocities.jp/kuni_s30z/lgata9.html. Wako 75S Cam Lift 9.7 mm Valve lift 14.4 mm ~ 14.6 mm Central Angle: IN 101 degrees / OUT 103 degrees Wako 75R Angle 75 degrees life 9.2 mm Valve lift 13.5 mm (lever ratio: 1.47 calculated) Center Angle (not publicized)

You can always call cometic and they can make you one in what ever size you need.