crazyoctopus

it is going to be a daily so i have to have some sort of outside protection.

i thought that i posted this awhile ago, but i guess that i didnt. 40 pounds $40, gutting the doors by crazyoctopus, on Flickr 20lbs per door

15x10 -50 all around. cut to fit.

cool looking 240 Taz, but you must go through masking tape like a beast. btw... cars with track time need track time scars.

Plan is a skid plate, or a bash bar. Plus I will be raising the car up a smidge for a bit more rock clearance

nah, I really don't care for massive power, I just want enough to have fun. With the car weighing less than 2000 lbs 200 is enough. If I get more without trying neat, but it isn't that important

Meph - it is breaks it breaks, but I am not too worried about that happening. BluDestiny - yeah... I am going to have to do pins, the only upside is the fact that it is further weight loss. My Ideal HP/TQ goal was sub 200; sub 2000 lbs car with 200hp/tq. Unfortunately there is no way that I will be able to achieve that goal with the parts that I have. With parts from the junkyard and the stock ECU I am expecting to get around 220-250hp and torque to the wheels.

So today I slotted some holes into the engine mounts and bolted the engine into the car, super zip-tied the transmission into the chassis, and put it on the ground. on the ground by crazyoctopus, on Flickr checked the clearance of the oil pan oil pan clearance by crazyoctopus, on Flickr a bit low Then I called AAA and got the car towed to my new location. moving the car by crazyoctopus, on Flickr now my lady is nice and warm in her new house daily life by crazyoctopus, on Flickr daily life by crazyoctopus, on Flickr not to mention she gets to play with cats in the garage, instead of a dog jumping all up on her. After I moved in all of my tools it was made better when I walked down the stairs and peeked in her room 039 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

So today I added some counterbores to the holes for clearance on the bolt heads nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Used my favorite carbide bit and ground the **** out of the input shaft hole on the bellhousing nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr bolted em together nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr The steering shaft does indeed clear the current motor mounts, so no worries there. However if I go with a 240 (volvo) front mounted dizzy I might be able to move the engine back just enough to be able to use the stock hole for the shifter, but I would have to make my own steering column like rturbo 930 mentioned. In the end that decision will come down to funds. After connecting what needed to be connected I mounted the engine back in the car nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr and while I was stocking the car with stuff I also put the hood on to see if it clears.. -038- 038 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr it does.

i remember seeing that awhile back, I'll look further into it and if the price is right and I do end up moving the engine and mounts I'll do it.

So yesterday we woke up, got some anti-zombie juice, and then started to attack the install. The first issues that we ran into were the fact that the alternator and the intake manifold would be hitting on the stock motor mounts and the hood latch. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr So we cut the mounts off, and in one case beat the **** out of it, and removed the alternator. Since Volvo's have two stock alternator locations I will be using the other one on the driver's side engine; I am gonna have to re-buy that bracket as I threw it away after I got the lower one. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr We put the engine back in the car to see where about it sat in the car. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr we removed the engine and cut part of the stock transmission mount on the driver's side for some transmission clearance. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr That is about as far back as the transmission will sit. So it looks like I will have to enlarge the hole, as well as design my own shift lever to make it work. After a quick peek at how the engine sits we cut up a quick few pieces and made a temp mount to see how it would fare. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr But before we could continue Martin needed to sharpen his mini-sword. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr a couple tacs here and there inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr but when we put in the metal we found out that the motor mounts don't fit exactly flat, so we decided to change our strategy inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr A slight change in the gusseting design inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr There are going to be some of you that are asking why not just move the engine back farther cut a hole in your firewall and get the shifter in the right spot. I will give you that answer: steering column clearance. inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr The day was growing thin, and then it got dark, but we were able to get the big stuff out of the way around 10:30pm. 037 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr I am going to be heading back there today to slot some of the holes, properly mount the bellhousing to the transmission (which apparently doesnt need to be that accurate, just make the hole bigger so that it will fit), and get everything in a towable state so that I can start working on it in a real garage. In regards to the tans-mount: it is pretty much in the exact same spot as the stock one is, but since we had to make a clearance cut I'll just have to modify one side. That is gonna be made after the car is in my garage.

The input shaft size is different, so I would also have to drill out the bellhousing to match the size, countersinking will probably happen if I can't find the right bolts.

**** this day... So we woke up a bit late and didn't get started on buying tools (welder, mask, cutting blade, grinding wheel, etc.) and picking up some metal until around 11am. After we picked up all that we needed we dropped by the junkyard to see if there was anything of value and for the most part just took our time. By the time we finally got to the house it was around 4pm. We started to mate the bellhousing to the T5, when we ran into an issue, it didn't work. Either I forgot and didn't take care of it, or I wasn't told that the only way the adapter plate will work is if we modify the bellhousing. I wasn't too pleased with this, and in all reality I am getting real fed up with running into these ******* set-backs at nearly every turn. Martin and I decided that since we don't have all the time in the world, we should at least mock it up the best that we can and at least get the engine mounts welded in place. unfortunately we ran out of daylight before we could actually get the engine inside of the car, so it will be a project for tomorrow before the Super Bowl. For now here are some shots for your viewing pleasure 036 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr --oh yeah Martin bought a 18" machete, aka small sword, that he painted black for "tactical reasons." This is the gap is the reason that we are going to have to fudge the transmission mount for now... oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr oh come on... by crazyoctopus, on Flickr more on this tomorrow...

back from the dead. finally ordered and received my gauges from egauges, unfortunately they sent me the wrong tach so I have to wait another week for that... 026 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr also my pressure plate (92 940 turbo) and clutch (85 SVO mustang turbo 4 cyl) came in and am waiting to get some info back on the status of my pilot bearing. I will be picking up a welder tomorrow to have ready for this weekend when I'll be mounting the engine and tranny in the car!!

$100 vs free with a friend.... hmmm

kali I love that color, is that the hummer green or jeep green? ==and 10 points to all the people that quote pictures!

two words baseball bat done.

woah. good to know. let me rephrase then... awesome rare hood! I am going to replace that for the cost of a grinding wheel. hahah

about $20 worth of material, and a $10 Rx7 seat from the junkyard DSC_3827 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr bought a new screen and a $10 wall mount GT5 is here by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

Wigenout-s30 - I am stealing your one side only cut out. It keeps the clean lines of the hood and still adds venting for the engine bay.

Stivva, you are my new favorite.

day glow yellow

well I am bringing this back from the dead as I am just about to buy all of my gauges and found this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2642/ a 73 empty 10full pretty damn close to the stock Z, so I'll be going with this. no modification and it should just read off when max full. And really all that matters is when it is getting close to empty.

i really want this engine to start purring asap. want. to. hear. roar!

I have a full un-cut harness with all of the gauges already in a box. the only gauge that isnt working is the clock. I am in northern San Diego county.