crazyoctopus

Day 1 of half off at Pick Your Part, so I picked up the late 90+ exhaust manifold to improve the flow. Better manifold by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Tomorrow I'll be heading to Long beach to hit the two that are up there, hopefully find a block in good condition and pull it. If not then I'll head back to the Chula Vista yard and start tearing those down.

$2000 71 240z with auto rb25det http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/2127659060.html

actually i agree. There are very few cars that look good with fender vents and you did it well, even worked the G-nose in very very nice.

that is awesome.

awesome.

that is soooooo sexy. I wish that was around before I did the my s13 dash I would have asked you to make another...

have you tried grinding down the strut a little bit? That was the best thing that worked for us.

Yesterday I finished manhandling my head and turbo to get everything to bolt up together with the least chance of leaking with the hand that I was dealt. To fix the bolt that was broken off in the head I tried reverse drill bits, titanium drill bits, and finally ended up falling in love with cobalt bits. I figured I’d tackle the easier of the two problems first, the turbo. The 15g had the bottom two studs broken off, and there was no way that I was going to try to easy-out them, so I starting drilling into it. The first pilot bit, standard high speed, broke off; the second bit, titanium, broke off; finally the third pilot bit, cobalt, went through it like butter. I was able to center one of the bits perfectly on one of the bolts, but on the other I wasn’t as lucky. So instead of having 4 equally round holes I now have 3 and 1 more like a slot. After that was taken care of and cleaned I moved onto the head. I tried every pilot bit that I could find and/or buy to get drill into the snapped easy-out but nothing was working. So I called up Josh and asked if I was to drill and tap on either side of the hole would that accomplish sealing the manifold. He said that I was taking a very drastic approach and could not guarantee that it would work, but there is a chance that it might. Seeing as I had no other option I took the chance. Aluminum is super easy to cut through so I went at it slowly. After that was taken care of I tapped into the head with a 1/4-28 bit. Then I put some bearing grease on the head and mounted up the YoshiFab adapter plate to get an idea of where the two holes were placed. I took out my cobalt bits and started drilling away. I knew that there was really no way that I was going to get the holes perfect on the first pass, so after a few mounting and test fits later I was able to open the holes up enough to clear the bolt. Put in the bolts and tightened the whole plate down. This led to another expected issue, bolt head clearance with the manifold. Marked up the manifold, put it in a vise and started grinding away the worthless material. In the end it looked like this. Mounted it to the plate, and tightened all of the bolts down. And by the way, does volvo hate the people that work on their cars? Because who in their right mind would make a 4 piece exhaust gasket... Now my engine is really starting to look like a real one. Today my only goal is to re-clock the turbo and order the clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bearing.

haha i'll try that tomorrow as i need to drill it out anyway. And the gap isn't that bad, maybe an inch.

heh, yeah not only fixes your block but will cure cancer! and no i have the diving force GT, not the G25 wasnt that flush with cash at the time heh.

The horribleness that I mentioned yesterday was only compiled with yet even more lameness and ****. For the kids who keep asking why isn’t my engine cleaned, painted, pretty; this is why… Yeah… that is a cracked block. I didn’t see it before because the block was dirty, so while I was cleaning it I found it. I reached my fingers inside of the flame trap opening and found out that it is a straight crack through the block. Balls. So I did some research and made a call to Josh and asked if it was weldable; it isn’t. He mentioned that the best thing to do would just be to just JB Weld it and hope for the best. I love JB Weld, but this is kind of pushing it to limit of how much I trust it. So I did a bit of lurking on the internets to see if other people have done this, and surprisingly there are quite a few outboard boats that do it. Seeing as I am so far along in the project, and the next half-off junkyard day isn’t until the end of the month I figured that I will keep using the block until it blows up and just have another one waiting. Before I started on the crack I purchased what the hardware guy said was a “sure thing†to remove my stuck bolt in the head. Yeah, no. It snapped within the bolt, **** that. If there is an exhaust leak, there is a leak and unless I find another head it’ll be there for awhile. Then I turned to the turbo and tried to get out the two bolts that are also seized, no prying could help, and it already wore down two of my bits so I have to get some more tomorrow, and hopefully something will go right for me. So after all that I finally got around to cleaning the area around the crack Made a grove where the crack is so that the JB Weld can have even more contact with the metal around the crack. Roughed up the groove, cleaned the surrounding area, and brought out the good stuff. Mixed it together, and dumped it all around. Then I cleaned up the bit on my oil pan and while the engine was on its side I fixed the tension on the timing belt. So that end another day, and now I am off for a coffee and then later drown in vodka+ while playing GT5.

when I finish up later today you'll see why I am not cleaning

tvgz28 - it will still be a month or two before I finally get it on the ground think about the ride height adjustments, but i'll try to get it in a bit sooner. Today was a continuation of the motor piece together and it was littered with both great and horrible things, I won’t get into horribleness today because the lighting wasn’t the best. Since the oil pan was off the block I looked under its skirt to see if I did indeed have the awesome oil-squirting block, I did… Here is Josh’s handy work with the new turbo oil drain. And here is how the engine sits with the oil pan now installed Then I FINALLY got my collector edition of GT5 in, and of course I was forced into the dilemma of racing vs. real. I chose real and installed the intake manifold as well as YoshiFab’s tensioner, getting the tension right will be a job for tomorrow. Then started on the exhaust side with the removal of the exhaust bolts During the process, of course, one of the bolts snapped in the head… another thing I’ll be working on tomorrow. Test mounted YoshiFab’s exhaust adapter plate and noticed that bolts that come off the 16v head are a bit too long. So I ran to the hardware store and picked up some bolts (I want to say they were M8x1.25 at 30mm) and washers. Then it got kind of cold and dark so I decided that the best course of action was to just pick up where I left off early tomorrow. Then about 30 minutes ago my monitor mount finally came in!! So GT5 action is soon to come after a nice shower, some food, and some vodka+

tvgz28 - heh it is all still kinda new for me as well, but it is essentially a flywheel crank trigger with an ecu and an ignition computer (ezk). as far as the ride height max goes i really dont; when I was doing the install it was more important for me to show how low it goes than how high. When the car gets back on the ground I'll make one side of the car as high as possible and the other as low as possible to show the difference. In My honest opinion I think that a near stock height is attainable, but why would you want that ? xShodaimex- thank you kindly! and i'll try my best.

stock LH2.4 ECU and EZK

finally bolted the head onto my engine! Volvo Head bolted on by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

Thanks tvgz28 for the compliment! as far as the gauge space goes there is more than enough room to fit gauges. figure 3 in the inst cluster area (speedo, tach, fuel), 3 in the middle vent area (oil p, water temp, volt), and then there is the whole area under the middle vent for even more. Look at some track s13s for more ideas. Al dash is awesome and a pound or two lighter, but s13 dashes are a bit cheaper and still give a nice look to the interior. tripled-my-z. Megan coils from their site, tubes and plates from 240zdan (but I dont think he is making them anymore, so look at zccjdm as they are selling them) The 16v head bolts showed up this afternoon at YoshiFab!!! So I unbolted my oil pan so that Josh could weld in a fittingfor the turbo's oil drainage. The fitting seriously took Josh maybe 10 minutes to weld it in... insane fast in my honest opinion. I forgot to take photos of the oil pan today, but I'll get them tomorrow when I finish making the engine look like a real engine. When I got back I started the attack... Super Volvo sealant applied after torquing the bolts down: 15 lbs, then 30 lbs, then 115 degrees. Top of the head half way though putting in the lifters Installing cams: all nuts torqued to 15 lbs == DO NOT EXCEED OR YOU WILL SNAP THE BOLTS!== and done! Tomorrow I'll be bolting on the manifolds and oil pan, re-clocking the turbo, installing the timing belt, and cleaning it up a bit; I can't wait for it to look like a real engine.

1973 Datsun 240z by crazyoctopus, on Flickr 1973 Datsun 240z by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

ordered collectors should be here in a couple days!!

Thanks low rider, and here is the most recent version that I seem to have forgotten to post. WIRING DIAGRAM REV.15 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr me too BluDestiny! The only time that it I can remember it was on a scale was when I went to the dump. I think it was after I changed the windows, and gutted the doors. It had a full tank of gas, my bag of tools, and some other random bits and it weighed 2.01GR; I am assuming that 1 GR is 1000lbs, which would make my car ~2010lbs. Personally I think it was a bit more than that; however once the engine goes in and now that the wiring has been simplified I am hoping to break the 2000 mark.

those wheels would be awesome with some mega offset.

changed how the relays are going to be wired because of how the volvo fuse block is laid out. Volvo Fuse Box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Volvo Fuse Box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr lengths are determined from the firewall inlet port to the various components. i didn't measure form the fusebox because I don't know where I am going to put the fusebox and relay box WIRING DIAGRAM REV.15 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

updated with a better kill switch layout WIRING DIAGRAM REV.14 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

new diagram WIRING DIAGRAM REV.14 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

times 10. only thing close to this that is produced today is the cappuccino