crazyoctopus

Yep head here

dont do it.

would be a relatively easy fix though, plus you can reduce the weight of the car while you are at it.

wow... that is one of the only cars i would ditch the z for... and for 2500... road trip time?

a disgusting 20lbs each not including tyres... but for price (530 to my door) they are hard to beat. then again if I could do it all over again I would have gone with the SuperSpun 15x8 with 2.25" backspacing at 16lbs each

damn, where was the crack? what about that head that was on the l24 that you had in the car? And if you need a new head there are a few L28s in the oceanside ecology junkyard.

Diamond racing pro/challenger 225.50-15 15x10 -32mm front (4.25in backspace) front 225.50-15 15x10 -25mm rear (4.5in backspace) rear

haha you and me both! no luck on that l28? I figured that the best/easiest way would just go warboro 255 external pump. never thought about the surge tank, but 255 should be goo enough to get that fuel up there.

Thankfully the lighting was decent enough this morning to show you the gap that I have to fill with something on the dash, I have seen others use a massive black strip across the whole dash, but I will probably be going a different route. And here is what it looks like from the cockpit; still need to armor-all it but, you get can get the gist of it. After I took the pictures, I jacked the front of the car up and lowered it .25 of an inch. It isn’t THAT much, and I may end up lowering it another .25 of an inch the next time the car goes in the air, but it did tighten up the lines of the car just a tad. Then I took the Z on a run around town which caused my car to get a bit hot; was due to me forgetting to ground the fan relay when I removed the stock e-brake assembly. So once I got back to the house and ground the wire properly I figured it would be the perfect time to bring out Martin’s Jag and take a few more pictures. Finished my drink and knew it would be the perfect time for the can test. After the fun with Martin’s Car I took the Z out for a drive around the towne and stole a few photo opportunities. After some down time I decided it was time to head to the store and pick some random tidbits, but as I was pulling into the parking lot the good ‘ol blue and reds start flashing in my rear view mirror. I start to chuckle a bit, and my sister gave me the “are you serious?†look. It turns out that it is illegal to use your hands as turn signals when your turn signals don’t work… really?! He also pinned the “no front license plate†law on me, but I deserved that one (I haven’t built the bracket yet). Fortunately I did not get a ticket, but it did however make me really want to make that wiring harness so that I won’t have to run into these issues again. Oh well, the project continues and continues to make me smile.

So for the last few days I have been working on putting in a new dash into the Z; an s13 (89-94 Nissan 240sx) dash. Even though this isn’t the first time this has been done, the documentation for how to do it is non-existent, so I took it upon myself to show you what is needed. Because this is the first time that I have ever done a dash conversion I had to take my time, and make small cuts. To get from stock to nearly fitting took 6 hours, and to nearly finish it took another 3; but before I get too into it, the photos. Taking out the stock dash Clean up Comparison Then the package arrived to complete my interior Cutting into the dash The fit How it looks cut up I am really unsure about what I want to do about the gauges; mainly because of what may be coming in the next couple of months. So for now I am going the AMG ZIP-TIES route. Made sure the car started up, which it did, and then moved onto the next part of the install; the e-brake. I remember reading somewhere that some of the 240z kids were using the 240sx brake handle and cables so I gave the good ‘ol college try. I read incorrectly. The cables are far too long and there really isn’t a way for me to loop them to make them work… so all this work for nothing. Well, I should be able to use it once I figure out how long the cables need to be and somehow make some of my own. I mean you don’t REALLY need an e-brake right? … Yeah… but hey it looks decent right? This is where the photos end. But the clean up and the (nearly) final product will be finished and posted tomorrow. Along with that I’ll pull out the Jag and grab a couple of side-by-side shots for all you whom have been asking for them. For the rest of the photos click go here >> http://www.flickr.co...57624322378779/

so back to the point at hand... plugging is better than looping...

That is bad. Cap em off. The smartest guys on thus forum say that blocking is far superier for cooling than looping.

Another thing to think about is the 720p video recording. Can you say in car camera?

any issue with brake pedal feel, or braking force because of it?

Keep it, use it love it. I will be joining the ranks of ip4 owners once the white one becomes available.

I swapped in a junkyard 15/16th BMC a monthish ago, and have completely bled the BMC a few times now and the sound still persists. Let me preface by saying that I have yet to find a leak, the rod (cant remember what it is called) has been adjusted correctly to ensure proper clearance, and the disc (again forgot the name) in the brake booster was in good condition and placement when I switched over to the 15/16th. The car does slow down when i push the pedal, however the pedal feel is not linear. It is normalish at the first 3/4th of travel and the last quarter is gets stiff. I can lock up the brakes, but only after i get into the stiff part of the pedal travel. For the brake mods: I have removed the stock proportioning valve and brake switch and replaced them with a wilwood proportioning valve and a union-t. The front calipers are stock, the rears are the 240sx disc conversion; the lines running to those calipers are SS. Do i need to get a new one, or is this sound normal?

Yeah 1976 jaguar xjs with '95 bumpers, chevy 350 with a 5-speed. I'll be posting more when my car is on the ground, and once he gets back and we get some driving shots.

1. Driving scavenger with your car in all of th photos i.e. A costumed driver, or filled with water balloons. 2. Farthest distance traveled without breaking down on a dirt trial/ mountain road 3. How many people can fit in your car. Or how much luggage can you stack on your car?

Thanks for the clarification, I'll take I into consideration when mount gets in. And if it is more hassle to keep it In then I will get rid of it.

I have been putting this off for quite sometime under the pretense of "waiting for full alignment to get them." But when one of your best friends finally gets his car on the ground, and you get to see it in the morning... You realize that you need to do it before he gets back. I would like to consider my car slammed, and tough... but Martin's Jag just oozes with glory. While Martin's car is in no way in a drivable condition, the difference wont be substantial when he gets back and has the tools to roll the fenders. I mean come on... Compared to the 240z So in order for me to get my front clearance down to a single finger gap I purchased a pair of .25" (6.35mm) spacers. While I still wont be able to get it to SUPER MAXIMUM, it will be better than it is now. And if I tone down on the front camber, and lower it a good .25" - .5" it may just be perfect. While I had the car in the air, and due to the talk I had with the guys and MSA, I removed my brake switch and replaced it with a union-T connector old new And gave the Wilwood proportioning valve a bit more clearance; I couldn't get full brake pressure to the rear. Later today I will have a buddy head over to the house to help me with bleeding the brakes. And maybe, just maybe, I will have a package arrive in the mail and something awesome will finally be documented.

about 25# a piece

Thanks LowCarbZ for mentioning the use of both the solid lower mount (MSA style) in conjunction with an RT mount. Now that I know it is possible i am doin it. The new search is now on solid mustace bar bushings! if anyone has any hints send them this way.

904 white for a crisp clean 113 green for that classic daily use.

and replaced before after

while I am fully aware of the aerodynamic benefits of going with the type-1 or 2, as well as further visual lowering of the car that it provides; I have to agree with misturmoneybags and datsun723 keep what was on the car. And misturmoneybags does have a point, I would be Yuta copy if I ran with a type1. So... I am off to MSA today to pick up the lip.