crazyoctopus

Read my build thread I have photos of what not to cut

updated WIRING DIAGRAM REV13 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

fyi you cant embed in this forum use the BBCode, good luck on your build!

I am about to change the diagram to fit the Volvo engine and its ECU/EZK. I will also be changing the fuse block layout for clarity, as well as the relay location. With the addition of the ECU/EZK comes the change of how the kill switch gets operated. here is a link that may help with the question that I have http://http://www.ssdiv.com/master.html and I am looking at wiring style #3. in that diagram he has a taped wire going from the battery to the EEC (another name for the ECU I guess) to make sure that when the kill switch is activated the ECU will maintain the data that it has learned. My question to you all is if I there should be a 10A fuse between that and the ECU power? Or is there a better way to add a kill switch and still maintain the ECU's learned data? and if the ECU is going to get constant power I might as well also connect the stereo deck to it (or add another circuit) as well to make sure that the clock is correct.

cant embed on this forum, use the BBCode, and awesome color

Didn't put on the bars, but I figured that I should finally port my intake intake manifold to properly mate to the 960(?) throttle body rather than the stock 16v 740GLE throttle body. Forgot to take some before shots, but here is the aftermath.

thanks for the info, and the caution. I bought a couple of Aluminium bars but never put them on, if the weather stays as is i'll throw them on later today.

The Valve relief valve finally came in and I had a chance to take photos and document the process to make future users of the tool's life a bit easier. Start with the block, all dirty and grimy. then clean the pistons off to insure a great seat of the drill and why not? Then make sure that you have everything needed After setting the pistons at their highest and lowest points tape off the top of the block with your favorite tape; this eases cleanup and protects the oil and coolant holes from collecting unwanted metal shavings Cut some slits so that you can bolt in the tool and tighten down the bolts Check to make sure that the proper depth is met Tighten your favorite drill to the valve relief drill The key to drilling the reliefs is that you go slowly (low rpm) and let the drill do all the work; i.e. do not put much, or any, downward force on the drill. Rinse and repeat that on all of the bits. After completion remove the tool and look at the damage you have done Put just the bolts back in to make sure that none of the shavings get into them, and brush them off Remove the tape to reveal your relived piston (eh eh; get it, get it? it is relieved because it wont get slapped by a valve! bah!) Now re-tape the now exposed cylinder to protect it from the subsequent drilling. After that has been completed do the exact same process, minus the depth check, on all of the cylinders. Once completed it should look just like this. Now pour your self a stiff cocktail, beer, or non-alcoholic beverage and move onto something else.

Since today was quite a nice overcast day I figured that before the rain picks up again I should fab a new hatch window. Hatch Lexan by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Hatch Lexan by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Hatch Lexan by crazyoctopus, on Flickr It didn't cost me a dime, actually I made money on installing it, as I sold the old glass for $100 and this only cost me $50. Total weight savings of 5lbs, so it really wasn't worth it, but hey it is still 5lbs. Also after removing the not so magical 3MM blue masking tape it took some paint off as well, so it looks like I am going to have to re-paint the rear hatch. The question now becomes re-paint it satin black, or change it to Pac-Man yellow?

I am going to be using the rear mounted dizzy. I chose to do this because the '94 b230 block that I pulled came out of a 740, instead of a 240 with a front mounted dizzy. The only downside to doing this is that I will not be able to mount the engine (hypothetically right now as I have yet to test fit it) as far back in the engine bay as possible. The upside to doing this is that I dont have to buy a modified short dizzy and crab style cap to fit under the head, and if I would ever have to replace the dizzy I would be forced to remove the head in order to do so. Since I have the massive engine cavity that is the 240z, I wasnt too worried about it, and it is a spot that i can save some money on. I am going with the stock LH2.4 ECU and EZK (ign computer) out of a '92 940 turbo, picture of the harness a couple posts up. it took a bit of time but I was able to find a ECU and EZK pin-out list and started to figure out what i needed and what couple be removed from the harness, and with just that I lost about 5-10 lbs of wire and sensors. There is still more work to be done on the harness, but I cant start that until I have the engine placed in the engine bay to see what i can shorten and what I have to lengthen. I will probably be running the stock maps until I can get my hands on an ECU & EZK chipset. I was really thinking about going with MS, but the cost difference was too great ($60 vs $300+dyno time). I am going to be using the stock heavy as hell dogbowl flywheel until I can test if the stock crank trigger can be moved to the crank pulley, many on TB say that it should work, but no one has ever tried it. The upside to having mounted at the front would be the availability to use a significantly lighter flywheel, and still retain the use of the stock ECU & EZK. Yeah I have been doing quite a bit of research on the pros/cons of going with a 16v head over the stock 8v head, and it really came down to the fact that I have a Volvo tuner, YoshiFAb, on hand that I can call up or drive over to ask him questions on how to install certain things on the engine bay. It is a higher flowing head designed by cosworth, and anything that you can do to an 8v to make it strong/better will be exponentially better on the 16v. In the volvo community, turbobricks.com, the debate is still rampant of 8v vs 16v just like the debate of chipping vs standalones, and LH2.2 vs LH2.4 vs LH3.1; and from what I can tell it usually comes down to how much time/money do you want to invest. here are a few links that have helped me out regarding the 16v http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/16V_Folder/16_valve_turbo_volvo.htm http://www.yoshifab.com/store/images/16v%20head%20swap.htm http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=31900 The last photo montage that I did was swapping the Ford valve springs over, the next will be the valve relief cut into the pistons, and then it will be the complete engine assembly; so don't worry there will be more than enough photos to answer most questions about this build.

I want to get it in as well! I am just waiting on the piston valve relief tool to get in so that I can finally put the engine together and start test fitting it in the car. If all goes well the engine should be put together before next month, and hopefully on the ground and running before the year is out.

nope, car has been on jack-stands for a couple months now and it never really went away. the only way I can see getting rid of this is by either getting a new one or rebuilding the current one. Still though, I don't know if it would solve the problem. Thanks for reminding me, it will be significantly easier to remove and fix it with the engine out.

Engine Wiring harness tear down, and rebuild Got around to swapping to the ford vs1632 valve springs on the 16v Volvo head, also did a bit of cleaning while everything was out. checking for leaks in the valves, and soaking the grime... the tool before Spring compressed and spring retainers out just sitting there 1/4th of the way done valves out, and a bit of cleaning valves cleaned and installed 3/4ths done how to install ford vs1632 valve springs into a 16v volvo head All done Then tonight I pulled my engine and tranny in a little less than an hour for the weekend sale, I am pretty stoked. Now I am just waiting on the valve releif tool to be available so that I can put the whole engine together and go for the test fitting!

is that gmr? i have been thinking about heading up there recently but wasn't sure if the frontside and backside were open, are they?

junkyard 90-95 volvo 24-26 fuse box. all male spade plugs on the wired side. which means that you can use whatever fuse you want and plug in the associated wiring size to it. Volvo Fuse Box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Volvo Fuse Box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr junkyard relay box from a nissan, 10 spots and the relays come with an easy to read diagram on top. fuse and relay box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr fuse and relay box by crazyoctopus, on Flickr chassis diagram for ease of wiring, minor changes are needed for engine components/diagnostics/efi/carbed etc.. WIRING DIAGRAM rev12 routed by crazyoctopus, on Flickr parts exrpess for $1-$2 switches dpdt http://http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=060-087 spst http://http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=060-370 maybe a bit too much info, but I figured why not add it.

Costs me $10 a month with progressive. I'm 25 years old with a perfect record

haha i've got a 72 that needds the glass gone in northern san diego county even $100 and i'll take it out, or like zgeezer $75 and you take it out.

in my honest opinion, if you are thinking about an LS swap you are going to want an r200 to sustain the torque that comes with it, as well as the options for clutch type LSDs. If you are tired of having that pirate of a pegleg while you are out and about having fun, get a welded diff. depending on where you are and who you know welding a diff will cost anywhere from $50-$100; which in comparison to a clutch type lsd is screaming cheap. For the minimal power mods that might come before the LS, the welded diff will take care of your fears of having the r180's spider gears fail (as per some thread on the faq section). I run a welded diff on my 240z, not an issue on all of the fun roads that happen to be around; hell Australian V8 super cars run locked diffs. yes by itself a welded diff will cause understeer under typical driving conditions [slow in fast out] but if you are aggressive then it is minimalized. remember in the 70s, welded/locked diffs were on racecars, so.... period correct?

ran just on the mechanical and never had an issue. I say run just the mech pump, and if you have issues then get an elec.

500 down is extremely low on any new car. if anything see if he will put in for a used car. or get a job and save up until you can get the car you want, very rarely do people NEED cars right away, especially at 17. ask for rides, skip out on purchased foods, and dont buy anything until the car is in your hands

do a broad search for s13s, not just in OC here are a couple good possibilities.... http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/1964000566.html http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/1966932162.html http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1966264281.html - sell the silvia face and get some money back http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/1965149977.html 1k is still a little low, if your limit was 2k, it could be manageable as you still have to pay for registration and a possible smog. miata's are great, and in all honesty I kinda want to sell my daily to get on, but s13s are cheaper to modify. a completely adjustable suspension: coils, tension rods, f&r control arms, tension rods, sway bars, etc. for about $1800, where as the miata stuff is around $3k last i checked. FCs (2nd gen Rx7s) are awesome fun cars but are not as reliable nor as cheap as miatas or s13s. 240zs are relatively inexpensive to modify, but they are old cars and you have to deal with all of the old car quirks, so instead of spending all of your money on fun bits you now have to spend some of it on restoration and replacement.

very little blockage to the radiator, to make it even less drill a couple new holes in the licence plate and move it a bit farther over towards the passenger side of the car.

not msa front dam, but it would still apply