Kevin Shasteen

(Boy, finally found my HybridZ Login Password-its been 4 weeks: Ug!) Kid Vid You didnt say what cylinder heads you are thinking about(?); as in their Combustion Chamber cc's. I have not looked at the DCR site Grumpy has generously offered as I already created my own prior to his offering; so I'm not familiar with the other program's format. If you are going to build a 383 (350 SBC Block w/400 SBC's crank) then you can not use a 6" Con.Rod and a Piston w/a 1.560" PCH (Piston Comp.Height); the piston will have a +.418" Deck Clearance: almost a full half inch! When working the math; first know your Block Deck Heght & subtract your Assembly Height from that. Stock SBC Block Deck Height = 9.025" Your Assembly Height: * Ross Piston Comp.Height = 1.568" * Connecting Rod .. ...... = 6.000" * Crank Offset 3.75 / 2.. = 1.875" ...................................-------- Total Assembly Height.... = 9.443" Block Deck Height 9.025" Assembly Height -9.443" ...............---------- Deck Clearance +0.418" Also; as to your DCR (Dynamic Comp.Ratio) if you want to know what cam is correct for your engine; we really need to know which pair of cyl.heads your are going with; which means we also need to know what the intended purpose of the car is going to be. If you are planning on running on the street you will need a pretty steep SCR (Static Comp.Ratio) to run a 304 Durantion Cam. Example: BTW: Your 304 cam has an IVC (Intake Valve Closing) at 78* ABDC. If you go to the Crank Angle Chart your DSC program should generate, you will find that .675 percent volume exists above the piston after the IVC has closed at 78* ABDC. 383ci / 8 cyl's = 47.875ci Cylinder Displacement 47.875ci x 16.387 = 784.53cc 784.53cc x .675 = 529.56cc Remaining After IVC From here if you want an 8.5 DCR then you will have to Divide your Remaining Volume after IVC by your desired 8.5 DCR, like so: 529.56 / 8.5 = 62.30cc Total Combustion Chamber So as you can see; if you run that cam in your 383 and you want an 8.5 DCR you will need a 62.30cc Total Combustion Chamber. The next issue would be to calculate your SCR. We do this simply by working the SCR formula: Cyl. Displacement + Ttl.Comb.Chamb / Ttl.Comb Cham 784.53cc + 62.30 / 62.30 = 13.6:1 Can someone say "DETONATION" on pump gas. If you want to run that cam with your 383 displacement and want an 11:1 SCR then you will need to work the math backwards: 784.53cc + [x] / [x] = 11:1 SCR 784.53cc / 10.1 x = 77.67cc So to run a 383 at 11:1 SCR you will need a 77.67cc Total Combustion Chamber. Now take that 77.67cc and use it to determine your DCR; remembering that your 304 Duration cam has the IVC at 78* ABDC which left .675 percent Volume of our 383's Cylinder Displacement which was 529.56cc: 529.56cc + 77.67cc / 77.67cc = 7.8:1 DCR a 7.8:1 DCR can be ran on the street but it is pushing the limit of pump gas's ability to resist detonation. You will also be giving up low rpm torque for high rpm horsepower. If this is going to be a daily driver then you would be much happier with a cam whose duration is less ( Bruise to the ole EGO I know). Seriously; if this is going to be a daily driver your 7.8:1 DCR wont allow the peak torque to come on to the cam till well after 4500rpms. You wont even reach peak hp till well after 5500rpms. If this is going to be a daily driver; you really need a cam in the 270 Duration area. Remember; when we speak about DCR or SCR, all we are doing is using a tool to identify Airflow Velocity. The tools are just that-tools to aid you and I as to when the Airflow Velocity is high or low at a particular rpm range. So, if you are going to run that cam on the street-you will need very steep gears to help the low rpm loss of torque; and your low rpm torque loss will be excessive with a 7.8:1 DCR on pump gas. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) PS: I also agree that it doesnt matter if you have a car or not to learn....learning has no prerequisites; learning is always in vogue

I found HybridZ thru Pete's site also. I kind've hovered for a few months-absorbing all the V8Z stuff I could. Began my search after purchasing the V8Z swap book out of the Zeek's catalogue-back when they were about Aisian (Z/ZX's) and not a German (Porche). I tried a couple the other sites back in the mid to late 90's and never really thought it was "In depth" enough. I was always looking for V8 swap info; and wanst really interested in a stock z. I had owned a stock Z years ago-cool car; but a V8Z is an even Cooler Car! That is all I was interested in. When I found HybridZ-everything changed. Very in-depth subjects w/good natured and insightful people; which is a very hard to find combination. This is a good thread; lotta luv in the house-I'm feeling a group hug...hmm, that would be getting too close to my feminine side ; I dont think that would be a good thing. Let us Ix-ney on the Oup-Gray Ug-Hay thing. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Since Lone didnt say it (and I know he was thinking it)...could your rumbling be a bad case of gas? Sorry, couldnt refuse. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

As crazy as this sounds-another "Real Red" color if you want it is International Red. This is where all the original Fire Trucks got their red from...most were Internationals. Intn'l Red is a very real DEEP red. Anyway-go to the nearest International House & check out their "International Red" and you will see that it rivals...yes even the Italian's Ferrari Red. I can hear the entire country of Italy taking a deep breath in shock as I said that. Intn'l Red is probably a lot cheaper, it wont sound as cool when you reply to someone who asks you what color is your car, "Yea, I got Intn'l Red on my car" heh-just doesnt quite roll off the ole toungue. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Once you have located the Ignition Switch check to see if there are any loose wires or any splices nearby...chance are you just have a bad ignition switch. Along with the previous advice from the post before mine-you might want to go to Auto Zone and order a new one...if it is available it should be relatively inexpensive; usually around $35 or so. You would be surprised what the auto part stores can get for you nowadays. If they cant get it for you then you will have to go to Nissan...and you can probably double your price. The ignition switch on Asian cars are very easy to replace; usually one screw will hold them onto the butt end of the lock cylinder while the other end will be the four or five wires that end in a wire plug that plugs into your steering column wiring harness. If you wish to test it-then follow the advice of the previous post. If you need to replace it and cant afford a new one-then go to your nearest salvage yard and obtain a used one; you should be able to get a used one for atleast $10...but then you take the chance on getting a bad one. Dont fret-ignition switches really are easy on the Asian cars...seriously-they are. Good luck on finding the problem. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Mike for your input. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I have a torqe converter bolt w/the corners slightly worn off (thank you previous grease monkeys) and was curious if Metrinch works as advertised. Has anyone had any experience w/these tools? Do they work w/tightly torqed nuts as well? Thanks for your input. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Last night when I posted about the Swirl Meter addition, in Vizards book, I couldnt remember which of Vizards books had the info on how to build a home made Flow Bench. Turns out that it was the "How to Modify SBC Cyl.Heads"...see pg#68. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Grumpy, You got more experience than I do at building any engine & will trust your judgement. I also know Mondello is to Olds what Smokey was to Chevy. I have wondered about the Buick Big Blocks myself-they arent that wide of an engine nor or they that long of an engine for a big block; and talk about torque down low! All I am saying, about the Olds, is that they have not been given the "Performance Push" by GM that Chevy & Pontiac have enjoyed in the last couple decades; with the exception of Joe Mondello. Just like you have developed many little trade secrets along the way for the engines you build-I bet you a $100 if I bet you $1 that Mondello has developed a few of his trade secrets he doesnt share w/anyone. The only way to get at those trade secrets would be to buy an engine constructed by him...can someone say $$$! But like you-I gave up on olds due to the oiling system & cyl.head airflow inefficiencies....only wish I had given up on them in the 80's like you; instead I was just get'n going on Olds in the 80's. Would a Caddy even fit in your Vette? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm familiar w/the components to strengthen the two bolt design. You said the rod bearings failed under a 250 shot of NOS "ROD BEARINGS" are we not talking about "lubrication" as in the oiling system? I still dont think that implies anything as to weakness-it is a reference to the oil system that must be given special attention. Are we not talking about oil starvation...as in bearing failure-not component failure? Yes, the oil starvation will lead to component failure-but the cause of the failure is oil starvation; yes/no-tell me what you think. Are we not talking about "Sheer Induced Viscosity"? Lack of oil-not a weak engine component. The Olds Con.Rod Journals are the size of Chevy's Main Bearings-there is a 1/2" more diameter to oil on an Olds Main and its Rod Journal than any other engine. If you plan on spinning the Olds higher than 5000rpms you have to give special attention to the oiling system....the girdle you mentioned is a requirement, blueprinting the oil pump, using oil restrictors in the mains and cross drilling the crankshaft: among a few other things. Joe Mondello has proven over and over (If you want to spend the bucks) that Olds Big Blocks can be made to run at higher rpms w/dependability & durability-you just have to be willing to spend the bucks. He is much better at it than I-he has been building performance Olds blocks for dragsters...for decades. I agree you that a four bolt block will have more support to the lower end than a two bolt block-but we arent talking about the structural support of the bottem end; we are talking about the "Oiling System"...so those bearings dont starve of oil during that 250 shot of NOS. Just my opinion based on Joe Mondelo's research and proven track record; let us not forget the Speed Boat Big Blocks....Hemi's, BBC's & Big Block Olds...I have not heard of Big Block Pontiacs or Buicks in the Speed Boats(?). Doesnt mean there are not any-just means that Mopar, Chevy & Olds are the leaders in N/A speed boats: why is that? I still agree with Mike C-why not go w/a SBC or SBF-it is a proven system w/very well documented steps along the way; if you want a higher displacement-then build a stroker. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

FWIW, Olds engines are not weak-they are the beefiest blocks ever made by GM. In case anyone has forgotten-GM chose the 455 Big Block to build their first diesel. The gas converted big blocks were tooled to the small block internal spec's-yet it was actually the 455 block's outer dimensions. GM didnt use the Pontiac Engine, nor did they use the Buick Engine, nor the Chevy Engine for that diesel-they used the Olds engine; why, because it was the strongest block they had. Even tho it was a silly idea to attempt a Diesel from a gas engine-marketing isnt always an mfg's best friend; the Olds engine was chosen because it was the strongest block GM had at the time. If you are referring to the Olds Oiling inadequacies at higher rpm's-then I agree; the Olds is weak in that area but not because it is weak. The oiling at higher rpm's is inadequate because of the block's 3" mains yea that's correct "THREE INCH MAINS", and must be modified to handle constant high rpm's above 5000rpms..as are most engines. Also, the Olds cyl.heads dont flow as well: it doesnt mean they cant-it just means you'ld spend a lot less money if you went with what was already out there...such as the Chevy, Pontiac or Buicks-that tend to breath better: they have larger intake ports. During the 80's GM chose the Pontiac blocks for their "Lightness" (weight saving) and good performance-their engines do breath well-and put them in their F bodies and just about everything else. The Pontiac engines also have "LONGER CON.RODS"...a definate plus. In an attemp to lighten the Olds engine-GM made the 403; it was a good engine-but had windowed main supports which is good for lightening the block but not so good for structural integrity when all out performance is an issue...if this is what is meant by "weak", then I agree: windowed main supports are stupid-yet the 403 was the only engine within the Olds line to get the windowed main supports. Also as a reminder-it was Olds that GM tested for their Hemi heads-back in the late 60's/early 70's just prior to the Insurance Premiums Sky Rocketing & Unleaded Gas coming onto the scene-while Leaded Gas was history. As a result, the Olds Hemi's Heads were scrapped, yet Olds-still has a few of them in crates as memorabilia: some high perf.magazine will do a write up on them every few years. The Olds cranks utilize 3" mains; both the Small Blocks and the Big Blocks-after their redesign from the late 60's; the only engine in the GM family to use the 3" mains-this is why their bottom end is brutally strong. The Olds engines are not weak-just ask Joe Mondello who has made a lifetime of proving his case. As with any engine you wish to tweak-you have to know what the factory has available -vs- what will have to be custom made....for unknown reasons-GM has chosen the lighter blocks for their performance trends. Timing is everthing-Pontiac/Chevy enjoyed the 50/60's muscle car days-so too did Olds/Buick-but not as much as the other two. GM concentrated more on Pontiac/Chevy more so for the late 70/80's: due to the popularity of racing and for Pontiac-you can thank the inspiration behind the GTO..."Jim Wangers". As for Chevy-they have always been GM's go to line: so, basically all Chevy from the late 80's up to now. Olds has always been the car line that GM "experiments" with, then if that experiment has good results-then Cadillac or one of the other lines gets the face lift also. If you wish to beef up an Olds (you will spend twice as much compared to other lines), but if that is your wish I'ld advice you to contact Joe Mondello-he not only sells his performance catalogue but also sells a "How To Modify" the olds blocks for maximum performance: he also sells a pair of Alluminum Cyl.Heads for the Big Block. Yea, I like Olds-I've juse come to the conclusion that Chevy has more to offer the perf.oriented...and Pontiac is the next in line as far as the GM mfg's are concerned. Anyway, just my .02's worth (Speaking as an ex-Olds fan that is). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Vizard, in his book on how to modify SBC Cyl.Heads talks a bit on his flow bench & how he modified it to interface w/his computer to crunch the numbers as the air is flowing thru whatever is being tested. He also added a swirl meter-see his book on page#24. That is about the extent of my knowledge. Sounds like an adventure-keep us all up to date as your flow bench comes together. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Comp Cams lists 6 different cams (older catalogue) for the Datsun/Nissan I6 from 240-292 Duration; with lift varying accordingly. I believe you are thinking correctly in that a 260-270 Duration cam would be perfect for a street engine; if you want a decent lower idle. As I said earlier-I'm not really up on the I6; but I do know this engine is basically 1960's technology and the secret to making good power down low is Cyl.Head Velocity-lots of it. Cylinder Head technology has warped light years ahead since then. The I6 is a good engine-but it is also a small displacement engine. This is why it responds so well to turbocharging....(or V8'ing ) Small displacement engine's are not going to make a lot of torque down low w/out turbo/super/NOS'ing that engine. Any OHC engine is going to be known for high rpm power-as most OHC engines, prior to the 90's, were usually small displacement engines; I'm speaking as an ignorant American here-who isnt privy to the European displacements and any other country: barring the expensive exotic mgf lines like the multi-valve 12 cyl's ect, ect. I'm trying to say that most OHV engines-available to the general public wer small displacements and with smaller displacement OHC's comes a known chracteristic of any small displacement engine-and that is minimal power down low; only to see its peak power up high...about 500rpms to 1000rpm's higher than any push rod engine of equal displacement/performance expectations. Now throw in the characteristics of a DOHC & Larger Displacement-then you have real all round performance...this is basically what you are doing when you turbo/super/NOS a smaller displacement engine-you are giving it Deeper-Artificial Lungs. I think what you are asking is how can one make brutal power w/out sacrificing low rpm power; normally aspiratingly speaking, for a stock 2 valve I6-you cant sorry. Someone else w/more experience than I on the I6 will have to help you on your piston/cyl.head combo. Good luck. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

BLKMGK, Do you feel your starter was unable to perform because it was a weak design? Was your starter a brand new one-or used from a salvage yard? If it was used then it may have been defective to begin with(?). Was your flywheel new? If both your flywheel and starter were used; then possibly the Starter Bendix & flywheel teeth together were worn enough, so much so, that they were out of tolerance. With the advent of the new starter from JEG's your starter bendix brought the two teeth into mesh, within tolerance enough, to solve your problems. Just curious as to why a GM starter was inadequate. Glad you found a starter from JEGs. Did the JEG's starter fit w/out any hassle? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Just my .02c's worth....regarding your choice of camshaft. You said in your initial post that you were thinking about running NOS; keep in mind that a high performance cam on a normally aspirated engine has excessive overlap whereas a highly modified turbo/supercharged/NOS engine will utilize a cam that doesnt have excessive overlap as in: 1) Shorter Duration 2) Wider Lobe Separation Angle 3) Correct Intake Lobe Centerline-relative to the Exhaust Lobe Centerline The latter cam will close the intake valve sooner so as to trap the cyl.pressures as quickly as possible. Whereas the previous cam, with excessive overlap-on NOS, will bleed a good portion of the effect that NOS adds. So, if you plan on running NOS and want a hotter cam-just try to get one where the Lobe Separation Angle is wider than usual and dont go to hog wild with the duration....providing you are going to go NOS; if you dont do the NOS thing-then go as crazy as you want-keeping things in perspective, of course. Just my .02c's worth. Sorry-not really up on I6's...but I do understand airflow. Goodluck in finding what you need. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Jim appears to be going to the same school I do; except my college name only differs slightly, "The John Wayne & Robert Conrad School of Hard Knocks"; life long student....S A L U T E! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

This is where playing with the idle & tuning the carb kind've merge & cross over into each other. If you have an automatic-then you will want to get your idle as low as you can; then put your trans in drive (with your foot on the brake). Then if your engine stumbles or dies-you either have the idle too low or your carb is improperly tuned. If you are running a standard trans-then you simply want to make sure your idle is high enough to work your power brakes. Idle your engine down-put your trans in drive (if it's an automatic); then if the engine stalls-you will want to idle it back up a bit and begin playing with the carb adjustments. If you are not familiar w/tuning a carb-then you really need to get a few carb books on your specific model. Between going back & forth from dist., auto trans in park and back to the carb for adjustments-you may also have the dist. gear one tooth advanced or retarded; so keep that in mind. You just kind've have to play with it till you get it just right. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Suppose there were a Catalyst that cracked the fuel molecule prior to the combustion chamber-as in "TCC"...Thermal Catalytic Cracking? Mostly over my head-but the writer basically said that a fuel molecule could be cracked if it came in to contact with a Catalyst and the fuel was under pressure prior to the Catalyst. What would you use it for-well, the more astute would have to answer that question; as I said-that is mostly over my head stuff but the writer did say when the fuel molecule was cracked what was left over was water & hydrogen. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Sounds like your "Low-perf. at low rpm Blues" have been wipped! Also sounds like your buddy has a pretty nice set up too. Congrats on the unpolitically correct road kill. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Terry, I think in the best interest of the HTF, so as to not compromise the HTF, that you should be responsible for designing only 1/3 of the Zecret Decoder ring; of which two other people will be responsible for the other 2/3rd's. No "One Person" should have access to the entire Zecrets of the Zecret Decoder Ring...except of course-SuperDan. The possibilities of it falling in to the hands of the wrong club (other Mfg's) is something we can not allow. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

This came up in another thread. I too like the later Firechicken's hood scopps. I have also been a long time Olds fan-owned a few 442's and liked the aggressiveness of the Olds W-25 scoops (1970-73) and the later Pontiac F-Bodies. I came across these in a Summit Catalogue-under the Truck/SUV section. With the exception that they are only 3M taped on-not graphed into the actual hood I think they look pretty good. http://www.weathers.com/Lund/Hood%20Scoops.htm BTW: Year One sells the Olds under the front bumper Ram Air Duct set up for the 66-67: 68 may have even used that system prior to the 69 Hurst Olds. But be careful of water puddles-too large of a puddle and your engine is toast. Air compresses-water doesnt...Bad Bad Water-Bad Water Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Wouldnt it be nice if, BIG IF, we had a HybridZ Multi-Jurisdictional Task Force; we could call it the HMJTF; or simply the HybridZ Task Force...HTF-oooh, I like the sound of that. Its purpose (schedules permitting-yea I know, that's a joke sometimes) would be to find out which HybridZ member, in your area, had enough components, to go to the next phase. Then the "HTF" would assemble at that location at the agreed time-and work till that phase were completed. Those that were new to the Hybrid transplant could learn-and the world of HybridZ's would prosper. Ahh, what a perfect world that would be. If the HTF came to fruition-does this mean we would have to: 1) Have our own uniforms? 2) Have our own secret handshake 3) Set up trust funds to continue the recruiting of new members 4) Set up a Dept.Minister in charge of Propaganda 5) Have secret meetings on how to take over the world Oops, sorry-got a little carried away. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Good answyer Nathan, however, that was 87 words...not 25 Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

You didnt give your displacement on your engine; notwithstanding-I still think you made a good decision to go w/smaller cfm heads. The 195 AFR's are perfect for a small block-street engine. That, along w/a cam that has moderate duration combined w/higher lift will make for a perfect "hard hitting street" performance engine. IMHO, you have chosen wisely grasshopper. Just watch your rocker studs-that's a lot of pressure. Did I mention I am jealous....you know-still got the inliner thing working for me Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Isnt it weird; even tho you have consciously given up unconsciously your mind is still working full time on it. Kind of like the cliche, "Nature abhors a Vacuum". Well, our minds dont seem to terribly great at letting unsolved issues go. I have solved many an automotive mystery simply by sleeping on it over night. Then the next day go out to only to think about a variable I had not thought of before. Congrats on figuring out your problem. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)