zguitar71

I would get a lower diff than a 3:9. I run a 3:9 with a 83 5 sp and 22.5" diameter tires, on long faster courses it is fine but on the shorter slower course I think a 4:11 would work better for me. You will have a tire over 25" in diameter so your gearing will be pretty high plus the trans you have too. Mabey a 4:38 or lower ratio would be better for your set up. Or you could keep the 3:7 and go to a 4 sp trans, they are lighter and have a lower 1&2 but the 2-3 shift is a big jump but you will not need 3rd in an autox very often.

You are better off doing what jmortesen said. The 3.7 R200 LSD from the 300 ZXT are getting old now and probabluy require some work to get them in good shape. New is the best way to go and IMO usually cheaper in the long run too.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103767

Put on stickier tires and you will stop shorter then just changing to bigger brakes. The tire compound does more for stopping distances than the size of the brakes, unless your car is an all out road racer and you are looking into the brakes for racing reasons. The added weight of the larger brakes and wheels that are need to clear them could make the distances longer when comparing to the stock brakes and using identicle compound tires. Rotating weight plays a major roll in the ability to stop a car. Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103767

An 8.5" wide wheel will work. A 245/45/16 will be the widest street tire you will be able to find but you probably do not need any wider than that anyway. A -12 to -19 offset will push the wheel out to the edge enough to fill in the ZG flares and give the deep dish look too. You will not need the coilovers for clearance with that type of offset wheel, the back space is only 4"-4.25" (depending on the offset), if you go past 4.5" of backspace you would need coilovers. Illumina's are very nice shocks, I really like mine.

Only with the drivers window down and only at very low speeds and it is not very bad. I have an over sized BRE type spoiler (about 1.5" taller) that I think helps the situation. My rear hatch seal is in pretty bad shape but it does not creep in through it. My old `71 had no spoiler and al the seals were bad and the fumes were almost unbearable.

I am not sure on the r230 stuff but the ratio would depend on where your power band is. If your power is in the higher revs you might want a 3.9 if it is in the lower end then you might go with a 3:54 or even higher. It also bepends on the gearing in your transmission. There are a lot of factor in chosing the right rear end ratio.

R-200 with a 4:375 from a Skyline (r33 I think). I have one with a LSD in my garage right now. It needs to be set up (gear whine), then it goes into a race car. I ran it on the street for a while but the gearing is just too low.

With the coilovers and flares you should be able to run 275/45/16 Hoosiers (or other brand) in Street Mod on 16x10's. Get a good alligment. I run 1/8" toe out in the front and 1/8" toe in the back. I have about 3.5% caster in the front and 1.75% -camber all around, try to get around -2.5 in the back and -3 in the front if you can. (1.75 is all I could get out of the adj. bushings). It will eat tires on the street and be prepared to have the car follow ruts in the road, but at 2K a year your tires will still last years. With the rest of the mods you have allready your car should be pretty good. Get the other ss brake line missing too. The stock brakes work fine for autox. The stickier R tires will cure most of the handeling woes and braking distance. For the mid range power get a 3.9 or 4.11 rear end (lsd of course), move the gearing instead of changing the cam. The lower gearing will keep you in ther power band at lower speeds. The roll bar is a good idea, but be careful if you get a roll cage. When you are on the street and you do not have a helmet on, if you hit your head (or your kid) on the bar in a wreck you could be hurt worse. If you go with a cage make sure you have anough clearence for your heads.

Check into the regulations of the racing you are getting into, you might not be allowed to run that type of spacer/adapter. You might need to get a set of wheel that fit properly.

245 tires would be a pain to steer in slow tight situations around town. For my street Z car I am going to 225/50/15 all around. That should be plenty of traction for an L6 Z with 225 HP.

You will not need flares with 8" wheels with +15 offset. They will set inside the stock fenders. You will need a 0 to - offset for front or back to run flares with either the 8" or 9" wheels to stick out enough for flares. The ZG 240's that run 9.5" wheels with 245/45/16's, have a -19 offset and a stock strut tubes. I would run a -12 to -19 front and rear with flares and 225/50/16 front and 245/45/16 rear.

I was thinking in terms of 16" or 17" or 18" wheels. A 245/45/16 should handel great on a Z, assuming the tires have a good compound, and should not have too much sidewall flex

I have a zx 5 speed and a 3.9 diff with 205/60/14's, revved to 6500 in third is around 85 so if you have the proper diameter tires on yours, you would hit right around 90 with the same diff and tranny. I really prefer the zx 5 speed to the 4 speed I had before. the 2-3 shift killed the acceleration, to get the rpm right for the shift I really had to wind it out in 2nd, now I stay in the power band. I think you would like the zx trans.

The smaller diameter wheels weigh less too, which is a factor in the feel and handeling and braking.

The later LSD. The earlier 180's have a 110mm ring gear and the newer (post `76) have a 115mm ring gear. Precision Gear sells them for around $650.

Get a set of realy sticky tires. That will shorten your stoping distances, assuming your brake system is properly operating. If that is not good enough go to a stickier pad. The steel lines are an upgrade in feel not stoping ability, I have them and love the feel. I have crappy pads on the stock system. My street tires suck and the ability to stop the car sucks too. When I put on my race tires the car stops with authority. This tells me the stock system is just fine. Good tires change the car for the better in many ways.

The + offset wil not fill out the flares. Your wheels will be too inboard. Skip the coilovers and get the wheels with a -19 offset and the flares will be filled out and they should be fine with the stock set up strut tube. A +12 offset would give around a 5.75 back space which would be too much with coilovers according to the previous post. The max offset for inboard clearance would be 0 (5.25" BS)with coilovers and -19 (4.5" BS) with the stock suspension.

Go to a 17" wheel with a 255/40/17. They are 25" tall. The 245/50/15's (24.64) are not very good tires, they are not very sticky and will howl when they break loose (alerts every cop around). If you go to a 245/45/16 (24.7) then you can get into some good rubber compounds. The 17" wheels will give you the most choice for compounds and tire sizes. The only 275/45/16's that I know of are race compound tires which would not be very good for the street. The first rain or cold day you might not like to drive the car with them and they will be gone in 1K miles or less depending on how you drive. IMO 245/45/16 are the way to go, they are very close to 25" tall and cost much less than the 17" tires (wheels are cheaper too) and they weigh less too. But if you have to have a wide 25" tall tire then the 255/40/17 is about your only choice.

I bet that car never sees turn one or any other turn at PIR or any other track.

I have said that on other sites before and ended up with around 20 post ripping me apart for the comments. It is good to see other people with an understanding of what it takes to stop a Zcar.

Both the front and rear wheels should have a 4.5" back spacing with the offsets you have listed. They should work with the stock suspension or coilovers.

I have watched a lot of the videos on the net. I enjoy watching them. But, if you have a library of yourself repeatedly driving in any illegal manner and you eventually have wreck, you will have no defense. An attourney will eat you up. If someone is killed and the videos you have posted on the net are played in court the jury will surely convict you. In the present atmosphere involving the crack down on street racing and the like you could easily get 20 years for vehicular manslaughter. I am not saying do not have fun in your car. We all have fast and great handeling cars here but do not advertise it for the world to see.

http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/SSR/SSR_Index.htm There are a couple types of mesh wheels from SSR and they all look very similar. Look around the site and you should be able to find the other mesh types and some other cool styles.

I bought 15x7 to fit the slicks I am running. The only wheels they had at that time were 21 LBS (2 years ago). I would have bought lighter ones in that size if they had them. I am currently building a F prepared car that will have 16x10 wheels probably from Kodiak, they should weigh around 15 pounds. I am very ready to get into a real race car and return my current car to the streets only.