johnc

No, 1.750" x .095" wall DOM.

I've got one set left if anyone is interested.

No, the car owner built the cage in his garage. I offered a little bit of advice and did the final SCCA Tech inspection but Bryan gets all the credit for the build and saving his own life.

I often get asked or whined at regarding the rules behind roll cage design and construction. Why so many tubes? Why require such expensive tubing? Why do I have to build it a certain way? Why can't I just build it the way I think it should be built? This is why... 100mph+ off the track sideways, at least 5 complete flips, so violent that the entire exhaust system ripped out and wrapped over the hood of the car, and the driver walked away and helped me get his car loaded onto my open trailer. The unibody supported by the cage (firewall, floor pan, and rear bulkhead) are undamaged except for one crease by the driver's side rear brace. Two doors can still open, close, and latch. Pay attention to the rules, you're not smarter then 50+ years of real world experience.

It appears you're have a lot of problems with rotaries in the various builds you're tried. I've spent a reasonable amount of time with RX7 racers and none have had the issues list above (shooting apex seals out the tail pipe?) Are you exaggerating to tell a story?

I've seen it where the wedge locking pin was not installed, the spindle pin siezed on one bushing, and then started to turn in the strut casting. It quickly wore the hole in the strut casting into an oval shape.

Not in a 240Z. E31 or E88 for the 2.4L engine. A later, bigger valve E88 is a good choice.

Halfshaft bolts/nuts loosen from inadequate torque and vibration. The vibration comes primarily from the u-joints cycling but the type of differential also has an affect. A welded diff will loosen halfshafts nuts very quickly. Racers will check then after every session if they are running a welded diff.

Uuuhhh, no. Not cotter pins, safety wire with a very specific wrap and twist. http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilotslounge/safetywire.htm

Is the goal building max boost in each gear or the shortest 1/4 mile time?

They are M8 x 1.25P. If the threads are chewed and/or the bolts won't hold torque its time to replace them. Buy a good class 10.9 bolt (nothing from Home depot, Ace, etc. - go to an industrial supply house) of the correct grip length and then use metal locking nuts.

Probably not. .008" is more clean up then a shave.

The alloy is 4340 which has .7 to .9% Chrome. That's not really enough to make it corrosion resistant but the shaft itself is inside the diff and gets gear oil on it. Don't paint the shaft but you can paint the flange if you want.

That will work. You can also tack weld a tab on the strut tube and attach a clamp there. I usually orient the tab so the clamp and line point at the caliper and take any of the movement/bending loads off the caliper fitting on the line. Between that and the frame rail clamp, both fittings on the line should not see any flexing, just the line itself. Also helps if you toss a cone up into the wheel well.

I use the Copper/Nickel brake line from Fedhill USA. Its idiot proof as far as flaring is concerned so that works well for me. Its more expensive then stainless but forms easily and I'm not cussing myself as I watch a little drip come off a tight flared fitting.

With AN 37 degree flares you'll also want to deburr the cut ends before flaring to keep from cracking in the flare. Use a magnifying glass to inspect each flare just to make sure there's no cracking. I run the lines in the stock location on a 240Z (up in the tunnel) after cutting, grinding out the stock bracketry. I use Rivnuts or threaded inserts, a cushioned Adel clamp, and a 10/32 stainless hex head screw about every 8" along the top of the tunnel. I'll use pop rivets instead of the threaded inserts/stainless crews if the customer's budget is a bit tight. I would put the prop valve in the engine compartment right next to the MC. I use welding wire as a template for the line bending. I've never done the curly Q thing under the MC except on American cars. Its purely an aesthetic thing from my perspective and I don't want my Datsun engine compartment looking like a Chevy truck.

FYI... I deleted the duplicate thread, merged posts here, and then moved this to the Announcement forum.

I'm sorry to hear about this. My condolences to you and your family. Can any of the local Texas HybridZers help out here? If you want to put together and post a for sale ad I'll make sure it gets on.

Residual water in the oil pan after all the oil was drained and the engine sat for a long time.