johnc

A roll bar is fine for a street car. Again, search this site using RT Diff Mount.

The firewall/pedal box flexes under hard braking. On a race track it makes the braking slightly vague at times (bumpy brake zones).

Not exactly in the LA area, but you can probably talk John Williams into it. Williams Machine 570 Central Avenue Lake Elsinore, CA 92530-2741 (951) 245-6240 He did the Subi side axles for me.

For #1 it will have to be custom made because you want th rar braces to go to the strut towers. Neither Kirk nor the Autopower ready made bars do that. For #2, never run a full roll cage on a street car. For #3, a triangulated front STB can be made for the 2Jz install and I've built one for a customer. Its custom. For #4 search this site for the RT Mount and the seat mounts are custom. No pics.

A couple things to keep in mind: 1. Is the stock seat back strong enough to support a load coming through the top part of the seat (where those guides will mount)? 2. How far apart can you go on those guides? Too close and its very uncomfortable, too far and the shoulder belts will pup off your shoulders.

For a street driven S30, here's about as much as you can do to stiffen the chassis: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction.

That's actually about normal for a SR20DET swap. The cars typically come in around 2,300 lbs without the driver in the seat.

Couple beers, couple friends, and this could be a fun ride!

Here's from the SCCA GCR: From the above I think you may need to position the front mount more towards you as a driver to get the net more parallel with the centerline of the car. You may also want to move the whole net down a couple inches.

Why don't you get the manufacturer's seat measurements and check with your car?

Here's a very clear cut example. VIR last weekend at the Grand Am race.

Nope. The radiator core support on the S30 flexes in hard cornering. That flexing, over time, tends to tear apart aluminum radiators unless they are rubber mounted.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqayodyRsTI

Spend a week or two searching this site.

You're putting way too much thought into this. The threaded collars are 5" long which gives you about 4.5" of adjustment range. There's no performance reason to get the adjustable spring perch in the middle of the adjustment rage on the threaded collar. If you're rocker height is 5" do you really think you'll ever run the car at a 3" rocker height? For comparison, SCCA ITS 240Zs are limited to a 5" rocker height by the rules and only a few guys running 225/45-14" tires ran at the ride height. Most were 1/4 to 1/2" above the 5" rules.

Sounds too cheap to me if that includes both a head and block core, parts, machining, assembly, and freight. I've never heard of that company and the comparison to Rebello worries me. How many road races have his L6 engines won? How many national championships? Dave's engines have won more then a few of these.

Correct. I generally don't run a front spacer.

I foul my plugs in about 10 min of running, due to running pig rich. This is your base problem. Get the FSM and do a basic fuel system diagnosis and troubleshoot. Also, get this book: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Fuel-Injection-Engine-Management/dp/0837603005

In order, from the top down: Jamb nut Nut Small Spacer between nut and spherical bearing. EMI Camber Plate (spherical bearing) Shoulder Bushing with the sleeve part of the bushing inside the camber plate spherical bearing. Shock Shaft Bump Stop Plastic Spacer Gland Nut Strut (with the shock body inside on top of a 1.5" OD spacer you cut and fit in the bottom.

I did when I changed the title to your post.

Suzuki Kizashi.

Please search and read the previous post in this thread.

I was out doing tech at the SCCA Double National event at Buttonwillow this weekend. This was a big topic of discussion and no one, nobody, felt that Impact suits were unsafe. Most feel its just a BS pissing contest between SFI and Impact with SFI looking like the worst of the two. Again, for now SCCA is allowing drivers to run the Impact safety gear and has not seen any safety issues.

When you don't know the base alloy 5356 filler is the safest to try, just watch for cracking. The most common alloys are the 5xxx and 6xxx in wrought and 5xx and 6xx in cast.

Got in the discussion over the weekend with a couple guys at Buttonwillow. I picked up a 1 1/2" OD jack handle and said, "Which one of you want me to pop them in the head with this? I won't even take a full swing, just a little flick of the wirst" Both said no.