johnc

OK, here's what I recommend as a base setup for a street S30: 1. Tokico Advanved Handling springs for a 280Z (185F, 200R). Some info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/ 2. Tokico Illumina shocks (HTSs are a nice upgrade). 3. Suspension techniques anti-roll bar kit for a 240Z (1" front, 3/4" rear). 4. Slot the strut tower bolt holes to get more negative camber. And here are my suggested alignment settings: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/60536-alignment-settings/

Its completely up to you. If you have the time and access to a frame machine or a good surface table you'll learn a helluva lot about chassis repair. That will help you with future car mods and making cars handle well. If you approach the repair that way, you'll get a lot more out of it then a fixed car. But... it makes no sense financially when you can get a straight roller chassis for $1,000 and then just transfer your existing parts over to the new car. Not every S30 can (or should) be saved. It will be much better for the marque if your car was parted out then poorly repaired.

I'm always amazed at folks who just ignore this and spend their money doing a Hybrid swap. Its like putting a new outbaord on your boat that leaks.

The threaded coilover sleeves slide over the strut tube. Most folks like the Illuminas on a street/autox/open track car. Good compromise shock. Tokico makes a better shock, the HTS, that a few folks here are really happy with. Most folks who build a HybridZ change spring rates, shocks, anti-roll bars, and bushings to get a better handling car and something that's more capable of handling the higher speeds that come with a LS1 swap. And you need to keep reading regarding vehicle weight. There's so much more involved in how much a HybridZ ends up weighing then just the engine and transmission.

While I don't know the differences, I have a CMC Challenge competitor as a customer and he went with this modified Holley from SMI and is very happy with how it works on his converted TPI 350. http://www.smicarburetor.com/products/sfID1/7/sfID2/5/sfID3/41/productID/53

You need to read some more. On a S30 a coilover and a shock/strut are the same thing. The strut is the main suspension component and has the front spindle and rear hub castings integral to the strut tube.

BTW... you can bring your pile of nuts and bolts to me and I can sort them by where they go on the car. I can't post it here because I have to look at the bolts.

Current JIS fastener specs (JIS fasteners comply with current metric property class markings): http://mdmetric.com/tech/threadtech.pdf Unfortunately its almost impossible to find fastener marking specs for the late 1960s and early 1970s for JIS, DIN, etc. I still think that the markings on the Nissan fasteners from back then are proprietary internal markings for stock control and assembly. There's no consistency.

You're the expert. Good luck with the repair.

Lots of mis-information here. Metric fasteners are rated by property class, not grade. And the little numbers stamped on Nissan fasteners have nothing to do with bolt strength. http://mdmetric.com/fastindx/t15u.pdf

At this point you are most likely screwed. It will be difficult, if not impossible, to get the chassis straight again without the use of a full frame machine/jig. Check the roof and the A pillars to see if there's any kind of wave, crease, or dent. IMHO, your chassis is junk.

Flood cars typically have lots of wiring/electrical problems and tend to have more rust problems. Wheel bearings, hubs, transmissions, differentials, and steering racks can also be damaged.

If you're welding in a bolt-in designed cage its important to increase the plating area. Extend the plates (by welding on additional plates) into rocker panels, strut towers, floor pans, bulkheads, etc. You might even weld plates to the chassis and then weld the bolt-in bar plates to the plates you just welded in. The idea is to spread the loads into a larger area and into adjacent panels.

I hear it all the time when I'm quoting prices for a roll cage. "Can you do it for less and still make the car pass Tech?" I reply, "Yes, I can build a minimum cage that will get you through tech. I can also build you a cage that will probably save your life in most any situation you're likely to encounter on a race track. Which do you want?" A "to the rule minimum" roll cage would have had much more serious results in this example: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90004-why-there-are-roll-cage-rules/

There's something behind this. Bill Simpson can be an ass sometimes and maybe he pissed off the wrong person at SFI.

I missed the ERW part in Appendix C. In the Solo2 world (since roll bars are not checked or stamped with a serial number) in practice you can make the roll bar out of anything and pass tech. SCCA Solo2 tech is pretty poor and the only thing that saves them is the low speeds at an autocross. IMHO, ERW in a safety structure is a bad idea. The SCCA GCR specifically excludes ERW for any roll cage design.

Time to clean up again. Keep your opinions to yourselves guys.

I was mistaken. You can put a P series head on a 2.4L engine although it doesn't make sense given that the minimum weight in FP is 1,900 lbs. With the weight/displacement formula a 2.4L could weigh 1,800 lbs. but can't. probably better to build a 2.8L which has a 2,100 lb. minimum.

If that's their own marketing term for ERW tubing then its not legal for any autocross and road racing sanctioning body. DOM is the requirement.

The carbon fiber hoods I sell are real, 100% carbon fiber parts that use an epoxy (not polyester) resin and are vacuum bagged and heat cured. They are designed to be strong (tested at 149 mph on my race car and a number of drag cars that exceeded 160 mph) and extra light. As a result you will see imprints or impressions of the core (foam or Nomex) and the bonded on inner frame (if added as an option). They are NOT meant to be show car parts. Spending lots of money with a body man to turn them into show car parts doesn't work. As I said above, Mark is doing this the hard way by trying to turn a race car into a show car. I'm starting to get a bit pissed having to defend my parts when they are not being used as intended... The fiberglass hoods I sell can be filled and blocked to a show car finish. There's more material used so the foam cores and frames do not imprint through the top of the hood.

So what you say... well, its counter-clockwise, in the snow, in a rally 911 with Walter Rohrl driving. The bearings for the steering column need a cooler. Kinda give you an idea how evil handling those 911s can be. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnKARl8HJjY

We make the carbon fiber hoods as light and as thin as possible. You do get impressions of anything added to the layers (foam core, Nomex, inner frame) as part of the bagging and heat curing process. It just comes with the territory. Get rid of the vents. Also, I could have made stainless steel straps for the rear window if I had known. I suggest you use something like Mother's Showtime or their spray on car wash for the majority of the car cleaning. And keep it well waxed. Also, only use clean Microfiber towels on the back window and don't use any cleaner with ammonia. You're making something that's actually pretty difficult. A race car that looks like a street show car. Most folks take a street show car and make it look like a race car. May I also suggest that once its all done, you go out a scratch it somewhere just to get that inevitable event over with so you can stop worrying...

But if you spend $65k (like I did) you can run with the SCCA T1 Z06 Corvettes of 2004 vintage on most of the west coast race tracks...

Your mom needs your support right now - that's the most important thing. Get on a plane. Sorry to hear about your loss and hang in there.

That tire front fender/air dam interference is normal for these cars with larger wheels and tires. The right front interferes more due to the built in wheelbase difference. You need to trim the air dam and front fender for clearance.