johnc

Justin, Think about it for a minute. Negative camber wheel spacers? Setback wheel spacers? "The wheels on the bus go round and round, round and round, round and round..." FYI... Huck & Chuck Enterprises are a somewhat ficticious almost famous motorsports company that sells things like: Titanium Ballast Negative Gravity Ballast Negative Camber Wheel Spacers ...and a few other itmes. The "Chuck" in the company is Charlie Davis from the SFR SCCA region. I forgot who Huck is. I guess you have to be an old racer to remember these guys. They used to have a web site but its long gone.

There are those who race and then there are those who race competitively. Finishing consistently in the top 10 means your competitive. Anywhere else and you're just filler - I speak from the "filler" perspective.

I've always run about 2 to 2.5" of droop travel from static ride height. A lot of this droop was done to work with the Quaife diff I had in back.

Here on the west coast of the US the vintage groups are allowing the 4 piston iron front calipers with a 11 to 11.5" vented rotors and a single piston iron rear caliper with a solid 11" rotor. Its the closest we can get to the FIA approved setup using available parts and is close to what was run in SCCA CP during the later 1970s.

One that goes Whoooosh! Chirp! Flutter, flutter, flutter.

Ack again! Make sure you space the wheel/tire out at least .125" to keep this from happening.

Ack! Do an Internet search on K-Sport coil overs. Tri-Point (and others) have turned up some pretty poor manufacturing quality on these parts. http://mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666252 It would be basically impossible to tune the suspension for better handling using the shocks Tri-Point tested.

You just need rear setback wheel spacers. I think Huck & Chuck Enterprises makes them, in addition to their negative camber wheel spacers.

Here's what I sell: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html Why do you feel you need to upgrade the strength (stiffen) the front struts?

Yeah, I know that. But I can't remember why we went with the contact patch over the ball joint pivot. BTW... I just ordered the full Mitchell ProLine/Advanced software package. I've been wanting to for a while and this post got me off my ass. I have two 240Zs in the shop for complete suspension builds so I'll take the time and carefully measure everything.

Erik Messley has all that information in Mitchel's software. I'll see if I can get the file for you and send it over. Right now, using my memory, I had calculated a .98 front and a .97 rear motion ratio (to the center of the contact patch) on my 240Z running: 1. 275/45-16 tires on 16 x 10 rims with 6" of backspace. 2. No wheel spacers. 3. 8 degrees of postive caster. Again, those numbers are from memory so they are suspect. We did this a while ago and we used the centerline of the contact patch for a reason I don't remember right now.

In my forklift battery I tried the desulfication juice and it seemed to help a little bit. The battery is junk and was when I bought the forklift 5 years ago for $1,000. I'm looking at $1,500 for a new battery so anything I can do to eek out a few more months is nice.

I think Todd at Wolf Creek Racing has some used SS valves for sale. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/.

If you're running a 5 x 114.3 bolt pattern here's someone selling some 17 x 10 Enkei RPF1s: http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/274992.aspx

Your budget will limit what you can do. Focus on shocks, springs, and bushings first - they will give you the most bang for your buck as far as handling is concerned.

Per the folks at Hoosier: "The ideal rim width for maximum lateral grip is 1/2" wider then the actual tread width - unless the tire is of a special construction (cantalievered slicks). The numbers on the side of the tire are not an accurate measurement of the actual width of the tread of the tire." From my actual experience, a 225 width tire works best on a 8" wide wheel. 245s are best on 9" wide wheel. 275s work best on a 10" wide wheel and 285s work best on a 10.5" wide wheel.

You need the 280Z crossmember, the 280Z steering rack, and the 280Z rack bushings. All are a bolt-in.

You're being very vague on what you intend to do with the car. I assume, with your emphasis on top speed, that you want to do some kind of land speed events. If so, check the rule books before picking a chassis.

Think of it as a rite of passage into Z adult hood. At least you didn't have to get scars cut all over your body or large dinner plates inserted into your lips.

I think Ross' rear LCAs are well built and are worth the money for those looking for aftermarket rear LCAs. They make rear toe adjustment easy and reduce that effort (compared to stock arms and offset bushings) by 5 hours. I've installed probably half-a-dozen sets of the MM arms on customer cars over the years and never had a problem. I do have to say that I have not worked with the Z Race Product or AZC rear LCAs so I can't say if the Modern Motorsports LCAs are better or worse then the others. I won't express an opinion on any of these parts until I work with them on a car. Regarding the discussion about where to spend the time and effort on the suspension (front or rear), my reply is: both. What needs to be done to the front is a topic for a completely separate, long, convoluted, and contentious thread.