johnc

Are they negative or positive offset rims. Negative offset will require fender flares. Positive offset will most likely fit if you run coil overs.

Weld in SFCs were allowed in SM back in 2005 or 2006. I built my car for the class in 2001.

That field of Zs appears on Craigslist very few weeks. Its the Devers from Sunset Z and they sell lots of Z parts.

2 and 5 is what I used years ago.

You'll need clearance between the STB and the intake.

You need to seal it with some kind of clear coat paint. Also, make sure you're cleaning off ALL of the acid wash. Rinse it very well wih water and dry it.

There's a subtle difference between the reason you're sectioning the struts and the reason most of the rest of us section struts. You're sectioning your struts because you want to lower the car. Others section the struts because the car is lowered. For your project taking 1" out of the strut tube is fine, but you'll need to get the shorter shocks and fab some spacers to fit underneath. Other folks shorten the strut tubes in front and rear to match the shorter shock and put the shock in the middle of its stroke at static ride height. They remove enough tube length to accomplish that. Its typically 1.5 to 1.75" depending on the shock used.

That's it.

Almost sent this one to the tool box, but this situation hasn't really been covered here. Yes, you can lower the car by taking out a section of the strut tube (not shock tube) below the factory spring perch. You will need shorter shocks (Tokico HZ or BZ3099 front and HZ or BZ3015 rear). It will also be difficult to make sure the strut tube cuts are perpendicular to the strut and that the tubes are welded together square. The factory spring perch will get in the way. Check the strut sectioning FAQ.

No. Typical certified Class 8.8 metric is 120Ksi. The bolts sold at consumer hardware stores are rarely certified so I would assume at least a 10% reduction in strength. Hardware store bolts are purchased from the lowest Chinese bidder.

You're not going to know. The replies you received and the searching you've done have not produced a specific answer for your situation. Get used to the idea that what you're trying to do has some unknowns. You need to make the decision yourself based on the information you have at hand. Welcome to life.

If you're limited to one or the other, go with front camber plates.

Unibit and the tape mentioned above.

Acetone or BrakeKleen. Use a bar or rod to push a rag through the tube.

Nutserts, if installed properly (full 360 degre swag), are as strong as the base material. It important to size the installation hole correctly based on the Nutsert OD and the material thickness. Aircraft Spruce has a page that discusses this for A/T style Nutserts. http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/nutserts.php

"Remember that car and number, for there goes a fool."

I've always wanted one of those for a daily driver.

Becuased you can get an even better 48/52 weight distribution.

IMHO, this is the funniest ever. If you're a racer, you'll know exactly why.

Here's the coolest sounding SUV ever built:

Check the wattage requirements for your welder and the startup on the compressor. I have a 4000W generator in my motorhome and it won't start a small compressor and won't run my Lincoln 135 MIG welder.

You wouldn't see it in the mirror because those cars are so low. You would be wondering where the F1 racecar sound was coming from.

No. That was just an idea for a poor man's droop limit setup using shocks as the limiters. I'm still in the camp of allowing 50/50 on bump and rebound travel.

That may have been true a while ago, but I've run with NASA HPDE and Speedventures this year they require the window down before they will let you out of pit lane. Better go to their web sites and check or give them a call. EDIT: Just checked the NASA GCR. Section 6.2 "Preparation for on-course driving" 1. Both side windows must be open. SCCA GCR Section 17.20 - All closed top cars will run with both front door windows fully open.

The Nissan Comp pan also had a 4" tall diamond shaped box with sheet metal hinges and four trap doors. The top of the box had 1/2" flanges bent inward to reduce oil slosh up the sides and over the top of the box.