johnc

I think there's an assumption that an anti-roll bar or torsion bar twists perfectly around the shaft centerline. They don't. Torsion and ARBs warp more then they twist and that's how anti-roll bars with multiple bends and asymentric bends work.

Konis, Bilstiens, Penskes, Ohlins, etc. can be built with internal droop limiters. Typically its aobut $150 per shock but its less if its done as part of a revalve/rebuild. EDIT: You can accomplish the same thing by shortening your struts more then normally recommended. Instead of doing the math to get the shock in the middle of its stroke at static ride height you do the calcs so that stroke has 75% bump travel and 25% rebound travel at static ride height.

Clutch type in most of the E36 chassis. The price mentioned is not a "deal."

A S130 is better aerodynamically then a S30 and will go about 12% faster given the same horsepower. For my basically stock bodied S30 I needed 320 horsepower to get to 150 mph so that should give you a benchmark to compare top speed claims.

SCCA Solo 1.

Holy crap that's a lot of work! Congratulations on saving the car.

Here we go again...

There are stock cams and then there are "stock" cams. Getting a SCCA legal ITS/BSP "stock" cam from Sunbelt, Rebello, or some of the other L6 engine builders will be a suprise as to how much power can be made with stock lift and duration. Had one from Javier at JG Engine Dynamics in a BSP legal L28 running SUs and it made 191 horsepower. Funny how good a "stock" cam can be.

Asking prices and selling prices are two very different things. Actual price trends for clean driver 240Zs are basically flat, at least here in SoCal. A car that sold two years ago for $4,500 sells this year for $4,500. My 1971 driver sold for $6,500 18 months ago and sold last month for $6,500. Now its being advertised in Canada for $13,500.

Are you ranting aobut the shifter or the shift knob?

I don't think there's much of a difference (if any) in cam design and specs between the L24 and L28 engines. I've never heard of a L28 specific cam or a L24 specific cam.

I sell the basic Tokico stuff and I'm hoping to get a 280ZX in the shop next year to figure out and build a good suspension setup for the car. It all depends on what you plan to do with the car. The Tokico HP stuff is good for a mostly street car. When your car becomes a mostly autocross, track, or drag car then more specialized suspension components are needed.

If the professionals are telling you that you've done a good job so far, why would you listen to the doubts in your head?

That looks plenty stout, although I would box the clevis' on the strut towers up to where the bar bolts in. BJ, the seam sealer you posted in the picture is not the same stuff I used. I use the brushable seam sealer part number 08656 that is grey and comes in a quart can. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=GSNKJYXPHDbe6DTWTJQPBBgl

Well, you're almost comparing apples to oranges. Sunbelt and other big race engine shops do a lot of development work and are tasked with building dozens of identical engines to a specific rule set. They have to produce these dozen engines in a two month window that exists from when the rules books are finalized to the start of the racing season. They also need to have the facilities to refresh and refurbish engines during the season usually with a one week turn-around. And, to top all of that off, they have to be able to revise and test the engine package almost instantly when the rule makers make a mid-season change. And, just to add to one more "little" thing, they have to provide trackside support to all the teams running their engines at every race and every test session during the season. So, to imply that these shops are all bling is not true.

Sunbelt is a large scale race engine development and manufacturing shop. They develop and build race engines to contract for BMW, Nissan, and Mazda so they are setup like a large, specialty manufacturing operation designed to build dozens of race engines to a specific homologation rule. If you've ever been in a NASCAR engine shop, the look is similar.

I'm hoping its a suspension problem becuase that's easy enough for me to fix. The Cal Speedway Roval course uses the NASCAR front stright and turns 1 & 2. My car spent about 30 seconds per lap turning left at 135 to 150 mph with two people on board and the right rear suspension pretty close to fully compressed.

BTW... We don't want to discourage your efforts. After all, this is HybridZ. If the swap is something you want to do, cool!

I like the movie a lot (got it on DVD and TiVo) but I'm not sure its worth $55.

As always, it depends on what you're planning on doing with the car. If the IRS swap is being done as a fabrication exercise for street/autox/track car then the 240SX rear is fine. If you're going to do some sanctioned racing you need to check the rule book before cutting and welding. For ultimate speed around a race track none of the 240SX IRS rear swaps are faster then a SCCA EP or ITS 240Z with the OEM srear struts, at least here on the West Coast.

I bought a base model 350Z. I doesn't have VDC or TC. Just brake force distribution as part of the ABS.

The radiator core support is an important part of front end strength. Cutting that section doesnt' help but its not the end of the world. Keep an eye on your radiator (it is rubber mounted, correct?) to make sure it doesn't start leaking.

In front of your radiator you have the following: 1. Oil cooler. 2. Intercooler. 3. Air filter. 4. AC condensor. ...and you're worried about the 180 degree air exiting the 4 x 21 oil cooler? You need all the air possible to flow through to the radiator, even if that air is 180 degrees. It looks like your oil cooler is in front of the lower radiator core support. Bore a couple holes on the back side of the core support and add some reinforcement to the support itself. Run a belly pan to behind front corssmember and be sure to seal the front, top, bottom, and sides of the heat exhanger area so that all the air goes through into the engine compartment.

Read up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860

How long would a show last if it showed a craftsman spending 30 minutes cutting out and fitting a carboard template for fender brace?