johnc

Maybe not. Remember, on a 240Z the right front wheel moves in a slightly different arc when turning then the left front wheel.

Someone just made that one up, posted it on the Internet, and now its being quoted as true. Composite parts don't delaminate because of a nick. They delaminate due to poor manufacturing. The driveshaft in my 350Z has a couple scratches in it from going off course at Cal Speedway and Willow Springs. So far, no delaminations and I've run the car up to 150 mph every lap for 5 hours of track time. Doing the math shows a 6,500 rpm driveshaft speed at 150 mph on the 350Z.

Hmmmm... four years ago the Rusty Old Datsun ran 1:49s on the same configuration as the R&T test. Wonder what the GTR can do if we put some real race tires on it and toss out about 750 lbs. of stuff we don'tneed. Pretty impressive car.

FYI...the one I built above was .050 (16 gauge) and it worked just fine up to 150 mph. Weighed about 2 lbs.

Did you notice that the poly rear window braces are inside the window on my pictures above? I saw a lot of inward bowing of the poly window (away from the original outside mounted braces) during some testing at Willow Springs.

The site I was referring to above is the site hosting the pictures (http://www.pbase.com). Hot linking is where a poster like me or another web site links directly to an image on another site. Pbase.com's web site has to load the image every time someone comes here to HybridZ and looks at this page. That drives up the usage on Pbase.com and increases their web hosting costs.

Some of the things I learned about thread locking: 1. Thread locking liquids do not work well with plated fasteners. Plain steel or black oxide coatings work best with thread lockers. 2. Safety wire just keeps the fasterner from flalling out and it will not hold torque because the wire stretches. The part will eventually fail due to the loss of fastener torque. For those lazy fabricators/racers, safety wire is dangerous: due to the hassel of removing and replacing safety wire, fasteners are not checked for proper torque during a routine "nut and bolt" on the car. 3. Vibration is the the number one cause of fasteners losing torque (other then improper tightening). Reducing the vibration a fastener is exposed to will increase its ablility to hold torque. Suprisingly, hardened washers are an effective tool in reducing the vibration a fastener "sees". 4. There are many mechanical thread locking washers. One of the most effective ones is called the Nord Lock or Wedge Lock washer. It uses tension instead of friction and is effective in high vibration environments. I've used these on my old 240Z after I solidly mounted the engine, trans, and differential. They stopped parts from falling off the car after Loctite failed.

For those that run OEM size springs, here are the spring rates for the Tokico kits for the S30 and the S130: 240Z - Front (Progressive) 140 lb. in. effective rate. 240Z - Rear (Linear) 160 lb. in. 280Z - Front (Progressive) 185 lb. in. effective rate. 280Z - Rear (Linear) 200 lb. in. 280ZX - Front (Linear) 175 lb. in. 280ZX - Rear (Linear) 200 lb. in. A little tip, the 280Z springs can be used on the 240Z but you won't get any lowering benefit. You can cut 1/2 to 1 coil out of the 280Z springs to get the car a bit lower. This does increase the spring rate by some amount. Also, I can order individual springs from Tokico if you want to mix and match.

Correct. See the examples I posted above.

Kinda like this:

Cool.

I guess I'll chime in here because I've built a few adjustable spoilers. Here are some tips: 1. You need at least a 15 degree angle between the adjustment rods and the spolier itself for the adjusters to work. 2. Given the size of the Seedgato spoiler example you need to figure on about 200 lbs. of drag/downforce and must design accordingly. 3. ALuminum sheet metal is fairly flexible so a single piece part will work in most cases, even if there's a small curve in the mounting surface. EDIT: Deleted the examples. The site doesn't like hot linking. Go here and scroll through the images from the San Diego Solo2 NT. You'll see lots of examples on pages 7, 8, 9, 16, and 17. http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/sdtour08

I think he's talking about the nut holding the factory spring isolator on top of the shock. If you're planning on relacing the shock and the spring, just take a cutting torch to the spring in a few places until the tension is released. Then cut the shock shaft.

The ROD: 2,130 lbs, 320hp - 6.66 lbs. per hp. 1/4 mile - have no idea but with a 2.39 1st gear good to 50 mph it would have sucked.

Looks like a Mazda diff that's designed to work with their trans/diff backbone. Miata or RX7.

Vintage racing 1970 240Z. 12 point roll cage with double door bars both sides, stripped interior except for stock dash, one race seat, 15 gallon fuel cell (1/4 full), fiberglass hood and hatch, lexan rear window, glass windshield, no door windows or mechanisms, L24 with triple webers, 5 speed, R180 w/LSD, 15 x 7 Panasports, aluminum radiator, steel fenders/doors/quarters/bumpers. 2,150 lbs mandated minimum weight without driver (car has about 75 lbs. of ballast mounted on the passenger floorboard).

More repurcussions from their mom's night of passion with her brother. Its the gift that just keeps on giving.

I have one of these with the side windows and its great. Large viewing area, good for TIG welding down to 30 amps (maybe lower), light and comfortable. The headgear stays adjusted except the top strap of the headgear will pop apart after a few weks of use. Duct tape it together at the correct adjustment. Buy a lot of extra clear plastic front lens covers and the batteries last about 50 hours.

If I found parts of an engine laying in the oil pan, I would be very worried about the engine itself. Who knows what other things the PO didn't give a crap about, "The spring fell into the pan, it'll be OK."