johnc

The heat will be very localized with a cutoff wheel. Steel needs to get to 1,100 degrees to affect heat treating and you're not going to get the spring anywhere near that hot.

I think I'm instructing at this event. Have to check with Aaron.

Bryan Lampe's regional ITS championship 240Z ran 275F, 300R springs with adjustable 1" front and 5/8" rear ARBs. I ran 275 or 300F and 300 to 350R springs with either a 25mm or 23mm front ARB and a 3/4" adjustable rear ARB.

You can cut the coils in 1/2 turn increments. Cutting coils lowers the and increases the spring rate. But, on any strut equipped car, lowering it reduces bump travel and too low will actually make the handing worse. IMHO you can lower a S30 aobut 1.5" from stock ride height and make sure to shorten the bump stops. Any more you have to start shortening the struts. And don't ask "What's shortening the struts" because there's a whole FAQ devoted to that topic. Depends on which ST kit. THe 25mm front and 19mm rear (1" and 3/4") works very well on a 240Z.

Oil test kits as used by fleet services will tell when your oil needs to be changed. The oil change intervals are usually much longer then most folks think. BTW... when was the last time anyone heard of an oil related failure. Not from lack of oil, but from oil breakdown. Back when I was a software engineer one of my fellow employees would lease a new Ford Taurus every two years. He did nothing, and I mean nothing, to that car for two years and 30,000 miles. Other then putting gas in the car and washing it every month, he didn't do a thing - he never even opened the hood or took it to an oil change place. When the windshield washer bottle ran out of the factory fill, he didn't bother to fill it back up. He treated the car as an appliance, went through four cars in eight years, and never had a problem with any of them.

It all depends on what you're comfortable with as a driver. The vast majority of drivers (even those that do the occaisional track days) think a neutral handling car has a bad oversteer problem. For fast lap times you want a car that's "Uh oh!" loose on lift throttle when you're near the traction limit. I tend to setup my own cars to be "Oh ♥♥♥♥!" loose on lift throttle at the traction limit.

Heh.

Hub offsets are different.

The outside of the rockers looks "funny", as if there's a body kit on it. Without detailed picures of the rockers and the front frame rails I would pass or offer him $800.

Saner might still bend custom bars. Addco will too. The smaller size bars came from Nissan Motorsports (Comp), BSR, and Mulholland. Sometims the pop up on eBay. I ended up selling my Nissan Motorsports 23mm front bar.

Normally aspirated 2.4Ls on SUs and stock internals can make over 200hp on stock cams...

Horsepower is not that important for getting around a race track quickly. Here's a story about my friend Paul Mumford told by another friend:

Make sure you have adjustable components (camber plates, coil overs, rear adjustable LCAs or offset bushings) and adjust for each environment. One size fits all alignment settings work poorly. The Z is really sensitive to alignment and a 1 degree difference in camber is enough to change a pig into a thoroughbread (or make a faster pig).

Autocross/Track only.

I did do a test on a 260Z. They don't necissarily bind, they just bottom. This causes other parts of the suspension mounting to flex and there's usually enough flex to not cause a bind. But what the bottoming does do is increase the wheel rate which gives handling problems. More here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/R200handling.html

Modern high performance ABS systems can make even a noob brake like a driving God - lap after lap. Sure, there are a few drivers that can out brake a good ABS system but the operative word is "few".

In SoCal the region requires a safety strap, independent of the mount, to secure all camera inside the car.

Its not really a problem. You just need to adjust the carbs or FI.

Porsche.

Rules, packaging, and weight.

Other then the the fact that companies sell dual exhausts for various cars, there's not one other true statement in that post. Collectors are critically important for performance tuning any high performance engine and at the higher levels of motorsports its common to find exhaust system builders spending $500 to $1,000 on the merge collectors alone. http://www.spdexhaust.com/pdfs/02-11_Merge_Collectors.pdf The wave tuning that merge collectors allows is key to scavenging the cylinders. Merge length, outlet, and divegent cone design is a science in and of itself and there are computers programs run by companies such as Burns Stainless that compute the exact merge collector dimensions based on 25+ engine variables. http://www.burnsstainless.com/Xdesign/Race_Engine_Spec__Form/race_engine_spec__form.htm A lot of cars run dual exhaust purely for cosmetic, marketing, and packaging reasons. Many tests on the normally aspirated Nissan VQ35 engine show they make more horsepower and torque with a properly designed single 90mm exhaust then any dual exhuast. Dual exhausts got their start decades ago mostly because larger exhaust sizes (3" and above) and the appropriate mandrel bending equipment was only in use in the aerospace industries. TranAm cars of the 80's and 90's ran very elaborate 180 degree header designs that merged into a 5" single exhaust that went through the passenger seat area. Ultimately the rule makers banned those kinds of exhausts for safety reasons and the TransAm cars lost 10% of their horserpower and torque the following season.

And you never will because there are so many variables. Ride height Camber Rotor diameter Hub offset Bolt pattern Stud length Brake caliper OEM springs Coil overs (8", 10", 12", 2.25" OD, 2.5" OD) Stock fender Flared fenders Muffler You have to measure and figure it out for your particular car. If you're looking for easy answers, there aren't any.

Remember what site you're on.

As Pop said, machinists talk in terms of thousandsths. Your .030 is "300 over" or "3 tenths" in the world of machining.

What I did for Larrow (oatmilk) is about as far back as you can go with a 2JZ before cutting the firewall. Its 1/2" from the firewall and 1/2" above the rack. I could have cut those numbers down even more but he wanted to run the OEM engine mounts. It can go back another 2.5 inches and still have the shifter in the hole in the trans tunnel (R154 transmission) but that means cutting the firewall and the inside bottom corners of the floor pan/tunnel. And then there's the whole passenger side exhaust issue.