johnc

OK, this is nuts. Punctiuation, grammar, and spelling please. Take the time and write clearly, in English. Thanks.

"Check out at the big brain on John! You one smart muthaf**ka."

Both floor pans, battery tray, and most likely both rocker panels. Call around and ask. $5,000 is a very typical price for that work. And 8 hours times 14 days works out to 112 hours of work. With your $4,000 labor charge you're billing $35.71 per hour which is half the typical shop rate for this kind of work.

$5,000.00

What Jon said... I get folks calling me every day asking suspension and chassis questions and then getting a little grumpy when I quote my prices. A typical response is, "JDMWerks on eBay is cheaper then you, why do you charge so much?" Well... because I'll spend a 1/2 hour on the phone with you explaining why the rear shocks from a 280ZX won't work on the front of your 240Z. Sometimes I just want to slam down the phone and get back to work. I can understand Z Sport's frustration and maybe how your (incorrectly phrased) question regarding price was the last straw for that day. As Jon said, call him back and see if he's a stand up guy that was having a bad day or a genuine *******.

I think they will bolt up just fine. The 280ZX rear suspension uses shocks, not struts.

The most important tool in the shop: Your brain!

Been out of town for a few days so I'm a bit late to this thread. As I understand it from a quick read the main design parameters are: 1. Low Cost Use existing off the shelf suspension components. The most likely source for these components are in the Circle Track industry or from an existing OEM source (Mustang, Honda, Camaro). 2. Easily Fabricated Use the existing frame rails, crossmember, and steering position. 3. Improve Handling The new design must improve the street handling of the car. 4. Better Packaging The new design must make room for more wheel, tire, and brake options. Are my basic design summaries above correct?

He did good by digging up this post and adding to it. Get off his back.

Well, that's one way to fix it. The other would be to replace the front diff mount and fix the enlarged holes in the moustache bar.

Here's a NASA shot of the fires as of yesterday: http://www.nasa.gov/images/content/193857main_wildfire_oct22_full.jpg

Your assumption that the wheel (spindle) stays in the same place is mistaken, unless the LCA and/or the TC rod lengths are changed. Think of the LCA and the TC rod as two sides of a triangle. The third side is a line from the LCA pivot point on the chassis to the TC pivot point on the chassis. If one intersection of that triangle is changed (the LCA pivot point moved back and that side of the triangle shortened), the other two intersection points in the triangle have to change their position in space unless at least two sides of the triangle change their lengths.

Just heard on the radio that 346,000 homes have been evacuated in the Northern San Diego area and over 1,300 homes have burned. Two dead so far and dozens injured. The only evacuation shelter left with any space available is Qualcomm Stadium. Central and Southern California have run out of fire fighting equipment and crews are coming in from Nevada and Arizona. An estimated 750,000 people (the population of the city of San Franciso) are having to find temporary shelter.

It seems like a huge waste when something like that happens. It creates another hole in your soul that takes a while to heal. It never really goes away but you get used to it. Hang in there and you did the right thing.

You will reduce the amount of positive caster and change the SAI by moving the LCA pivot point back in relation to the upper strut mount. The LCA should move as perpendicular to the chassis centerline as possible or you'll get wheelbase changes during suspension travel. Because of this, you will also have to shorten the TC rod.

That ride height is good. Check to make sure you have about 2" of bump travel before you hit the bump stops.

At autocross speeds total area is important. Prepared pretty much inherits Street Prepared aero rules and the fast SP folks run 10" tall spoilers almost perpendicular to the body work as far back on the car as they can go. Check out the spoiler on Schenker's CSP Miata.

Given enough time, money, and testing any can be made to handle reasonably well. The Porsch 911 is a classic example.

Answers to your clearance question in Oatmilks' thread: 8 1/4" from the intake mounting flange to the brake booster. 11 1/16" from the intake manifold flange to the end of the bleed fittings on the side of the MC. The booster sticks out 4" from the firewall. The booster/MC assembly sticks out 11 1/4" from the firewall. That's for the install I did of the 2JZ-GTE in Larrow's car.

Start digging a well. Do you typically get rain the last few months of the year?

Mine was a 3L per the class rules.

That's a pretty impressive car.

For 225s through 245s I figured a tire diameter around from 23" to 24". For anything larger I figured a tire diameter around 25". Guys, let's not burrow into detailed setups for cars with 285/35-18s, painted blue, with gold spinners, dirt tracked on Saturday, and driven to church on Sunday. The settings I posted above are general starting points and are meant to get someone close. From these starting points a person should adjust for their specific vehicle based on testing and driver preferences.

S30 only and front toe is really up to each person's preference. What I'm recommending above for the street are settings for "spirited" driving.

I get this quesiton daily. Assuming you've spent money and time building adjustability into your suspension AND are willing actually adjust then these recommendations make sense. Otherwise, take the car to Pep Boys, tell the tech to "Make it all green", and hope your tires last a long time. Track/Autocross For 225 to 245 width radial DOT tires try these alignment settings: Front Camber: 3 to 3.25 neg Caster: 6 to 7 positive (even on both sides) Toe: 1/8" to 3/16" out Ride height: 5 1/2" to 6" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. Rear Camber: 2.5 to 3 neg Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in Ride height: 5 3/4" to 6 1/4" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. For tire widths over 245 try these alignment settings: Front Camber: 2.75 to 3 neg Caster: 6 to 7 positive (even on both sides) Toe: 1/16" to 1/8"" out Ride height: 6" to 6 1/2" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. Rear Camber: 2.25 to 2.5 neg Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in Ride height: 6 1/4" to 6 3/4" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. Street For 225 to 245 width radial DOT tires try these alignment settings: Front Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg Caster: 4 to 5 positive (even on both sides) Toe: 1/16" out or 0 Ride height: 6" to 6 1/2" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. Rear Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in Ride height: 6 1/2" to 7" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. For tire widths over 245 try these alignment settings: Front Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg Caster: 4 to 5 positive (even on both sides) Toe: 1/16" out or 0 Ride height: 6 1/2" to 7" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. Rear Camber: 1.25 to 1.5 neg Toe: 1/16" to 1/8" in Ride height: 7" to 7 1/2" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam. Caveat Emptor: These are starting points for you and your car. Be ready and willing to change them based on your preferences and local conditions. These alignment settings might be a bit tricky in the rain and even trickier in snow or ice. Your tires will wear a bit faster then the stock alignment settings. If that's a concern of yours, stay with the stock numbers and don't ask me dumb quesiton like, "Well... how much faster will they wear?" or "How many miles will the tires last with the Track alignment setting?" If you're asking those questions you shouldn't be reading this thread. Go buy a Honda...