johnc

Yasin, Nice tits -for a guy....

The Motorsports School is 72 hours of instruction for $1,150! That's pretty cheap for a school that provides equipment, materials, etc. Plus I was able to stay a couple hours longer each day and practice on stainless, CroMo, aluminum, Inconel, and Ti. I TIG welded over 100 CroMo 1.5" OD tube fish mouthed joints on Day 1 of the second week. Just that welding alone was about 25' of CroMo tubing at $6 a foot.

Yes, adjustability. But, if you're not the kind of person who experiments, tests, and adjusts the adjustable parts of your car, then buy a set of HPs.

The best. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/training/weldschool/ Its not as expensive as you think and the Motorsports Welding program gets you welding CroMo tubing, Inconel, Aluminum, and Ti.

I sell the Tokico HP kit but I replace the front HPs with Illuminas. Infortunately Tokico no longer makes the Illumina for the rear. It works out fine because the HPs are a good balance with the Illuminas if you keep the Illuminas in the middle of their adjustment range (2 to 4). http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/Tokico%20-%20Datsun%20S130.html $420 plus shipping.

What a moron...

The conversation went well and they've looked at this exact thread. Unfortunately they can't figure it out. I don't understand it either and would love to actually look at your car and the installation. Again, when you installed the shocks, did you put any spacers in the strut tubes, either above or below the shocks?

BMW 3.0CSL is still the car I lust after the most.

It seems to be an unusual problem. I've installed these exact springs and shocks on a 240Z and haven't seen this issue. I've also talked with the engineers at Tokico and have referred them to this thread and they don't understand how the front has so little travel.

They just need cards in the spokes.

They were here on HybridZ but now I notice the add is marked SOLD. They were not sold, so I guess we still have that problem with the classifieds. http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=4726&cat=500 I'll take $750 for the two seats.

I put 'em on eBay if anyone's interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250172117351

Do you really want your handling enforced?

Had problems and I've got a pretty well educated right foot. But, as said above, it was easy once I drew the 6 clockwise.

Waking up from my nap...

Looks like the diff and axle spun within the ladder bar clamps and then the clamps snapped. Hope he didn't pay anyone for that work.

Chisels don't work on the 240Z seams. They tend to cut into the base metal and leave the spot welds intact. A 135 degree drill bit or a spot weld bit works well.

Regarding optimal cooling system temp for a highly modified NA L6 engine... Jim Thompson at Sunbelt told me to run a 180 degree thermostat and keep the cooling system temp between 190 and 200 degrees for the best power and longevity. At the time Sunbelt was running the Speedvision World Challenge Mazda and BMW racing 6 cylinder engines around 210 degrees to get the most power out of those engines for a race. They ran them up to 225 degrees in qualifying trim. I was never told why he preferred higher coolant temps.

275/30-20, 275/35-19, 275/30-19, 275/35-18 and 275/35-15 are your choices in a 275 width.

Gravity is your friend. I did use a contractor's laser mounted to the pinion flange to mark a line on the underbody from the diff to the crossmember and I've got a couple electronic angle finders. Unfortunately the transmission width kept the engine about 1/2" further to the right then I wanted. The driveline angles are all within normal tolernaces with the veritcal angular difference at .5 degrees and the horizonal difference at .4 degrees.

You can also try http://www.taylor-race.com. They are an authorized Quaife dealer and distributor.

Fantastic work. We're starting to see a trend towards Hot Rods based on foriegn cars.

Triple turbos and triple carbs?

Here's a typical racer cold air setup. FYI... I did not build this, although I wish I did.