johnc

Hell, he's selling two. Maybe I can put them together and make a KA48 straight eight.

Saw this in a GT race site: ----- Nissan KA24 Motors For Sale – Long Blocks These motors are very competitive. They have produced several divisional championships, and took a very green rookie driver to a GT-3 4th place finish at the Runoffs in 2004. KA24 #305874 Block: Modified for dry sump system, O-ringed, bored, fresh hone, modified for high torque starter Crank: Stock crank, balanced, modified oiling, race prepared Carrillo Rods Pistons: JE pistons with full round skirts, fresh (no time) Total Seal rings Fresh bearings throughout (no time) Head: New Nissan casing in 2000, CNC ported, new Beryllium seat inserts on intake side (no time), new set of titanium valves (no time), modified Del West intake retainers, Modified Comp Cams exhaust retainers, Comp Cams valve springs, Nismo R5 cam, modified adjustable rocker arms with new Porsche adjusters and nuts Other: Dual roller timing chain with modified tensioner (1 race) Excludes oil pan, balancer, and external appendages. KA24 #509586 Block: Modified for dry sump system, O-ringed, bored, fresh hone, modified for high torque starter Crank: Stock crank, balanced, modified oiling, race prepared Carrillo Rods Pistons: JE H-box pistons, fresh (no time) JE rings Fresh bearings throughout (no time) Head: New Nissan casing in 2000, CNC ported, Beryllium seat inserts on intake side (2 races), Full set of titanium valves (2 races), modified Del West intake retainers, Modified Comp Cams exhaust retainers, Comp Cams valve springs, Nismo R5 cam, modified adjustable rocker arms with Porsche adjusters and nuts Other: New dual roller timing chain (no time) with modified tensioner Excludes oil pan, balancer, and external appendages. Intake manifold and many spares included with two-engine purchase. Exhaust header included if you want it, but it’s fairly well beat. The intake manifold is negotiable for a one engine purchase. These motors cost well over $11k each to build to these specifications. Will sell individually for $6,400 or both for $5,500 each, plus shipping. OBO. Need to sell quick. Contact: SFR Enterprises, LLC, Ric Bushey, 757-333-7504 or drbushey@ccim.net. -----

You can always fly me, my welders, my tube bender, my bandsaw, etc. to Florida...

Front rotors were off the shelf Coleman's 11.750" x .750" vented and the adapters came from a guy that used to sell these kits years ago. Rear rotors were solid Brembo 11" that were for a 280ZX.

Personally, I never paint the mild steel exhausts I've put on my race cars. I just periodically pull the exhaust, scrub it with a scoth brite pad dipped in WD40, and wipe it dry. But I also live in SoCal so rust isn't a big issue unles you live near the beach.

I would coat the header and use Jet Hot's 2000 coating (not the Sterling). For the rest of the exhaust I would clean it up and paint it with a high temp paint. Plan on removing the exhaust every couple years, cleaning it up again, and re-painting. Paying attenting to it periodically will do more towards making it last then coating it and forgetting about it until something falls off.

I had no problems with the Outlaw 2800s that were on the ROD and the braking was as good as 275/45-16 Hoosiers can give. Erik came around after he drove the car a few times. The older more open backed circle track racing Outlaws are very flexible but the 2800s are designed for us road racing guys. Bryan Lampe bought the Outlaws off the ROD when I parted the car out and he's going to run them on his vintage racing 240Z, if he can sneak them by the tech guys.

As someone who is doing the dealer dance for a replacement shop truck, I can tell you that the Ridgeline is no truck. I refer to those kinds of things (Ridgeline, Avalanche, Sport Trac, etc.) as Trucklets. They are fine as cars plus you can maybe put a motorcycle in the back with a couple fuel cans. They are not trucks. BTW... Nissan still doesn't offer the Titan with an 8 foot bed. They still don't get it.

Uuuummmmm, bacteriaaaaaa [drool]. I've heard that many times and have dealt with wives/girlfriend who freaked at me using a wood cutting board to carve meat. Well, that's what my Mom and Dad used from 1946 on, while raising 6 kids and none of us died from the bacteria laden wooden cutting boards. I don't recall any of us getting food poisoning either. Just wash the things after your done.

And I've always disagreed with that assesment; its not a mistake to build a house to your own personal tastes. I build my house to please me, not to please a potential buyer or a real estate agent years down the road. When I do sell it, the home will bring the appropriate price based on my tastes and what the market feels they are worth. I won't own a house painted Navaho white with Beige carpet just because some soccer mom five years from now might feel "comfortable" during the walk through. Just like I won't build and drive a stock, restored 240Z just because they bring the most money on resale.

Search....

Your tires are probably rubbing the TC rod or the frame rail lip.

Its an R200. Spend some time searching this site, there are a lot of pictures that will help you with the comparison.

Stop. Put the tools down and walk away from the car. Sit and think for a minute. Just from this paragraph I can assure you that you've got at least 100 hours of work to get your car ready for a track day. Basic things like: brake pads and shoes rotors and drums brake fluid suspension bushings steering rack wheel bearings Wheels tires engine, trans, and differential mounts engine, trans, and diff fluids seat belts suspension nuts and bolts mirrors and much more... all need to be inspected and replaced as needed. You should also source two Koni reds for the rear struts and replace the blown shocks. Once you have the car in a safe and reliable condition for autox and track events, then you can start thinking about modifying it to go faster.

Thanks guys. Its welded and came out fine. I took a bunch of pictures of the whole process with the intent of creating a page on my web site showing the poor man's way of welding cast steel and iron.

My customer is a member of this board and has built a number of turbocharged cars. He is well versed in the technology, much more then I am. My reputation stands on its own and its not based on parts. I am neither defending or promoting a part, I'm mearly being honest in stating that I DON'T KNOW if the part is any good. Again, read my previous posts in this thread. Unless myself or another racer that I respect has DIRECT experience with something, I don't offer an opinion. That's called "Honesty." I don't understand how a simple question about properly welding on a turbo gets turned around into a discussion about my and my business' reputation. Drop it.

So, I read this thread and I'm thinking, "I know I've got an in car picture of the hood somewhere..."

I don't tell my customer that because I don't know. Did you guys miss that line where I said I was turbo ignorant? Unless myseff or a RACER I know and trust has experience with something DIRECTLY (no Internet rumors) I will not offer opinions or recommendations to my customers. I prefer to say, "I don't know" instead of BSing or spreading rumors. I am willing to spread rumors on various Internet threads but I'm very clear to identify them as such and that's very different from someone paying me for my advice. Again, as I've posted many, many times before I am a suspension, chassis, race prep guy. I don't build engines. You want X engine and Y turbo installed in your car and plumbed? Fine. I'll be happy to do it and I'll make sure its done right. You want turbo and engine recommendations, go talk with an engine builder.

Look at the second picture above, that's how I just finished welding the 2.75" to 3" transition with a V-band clamp lip to the turbo. Its all buried in a 30 gallon bucket of sand, slowly cooling.

Its not my turbo, its a turbo that my customer purchased. I'm building the turbo header, exhaust, intake plumbing, intercooler tanks, mounting the intercooler, building engine mounts, plumbing the fuel system, etc. Turbos and engines are things I'm not concerned with, I don't do engines.

Hah, what kind shop space and money do you think I have? Let's try an Oxy/Acet kit with a Rosebud tip, 600 and 800 degree Tempil sticks, and a 30 gallon metal pail with sand sitting in the sun.

Power. Amir said he got tired of passing cars in the corner and then having them pass him on the straights. Having spent some time under an RX8 I can tell you that they have the best OEM suspension I've seen. I will be up at WSIR this weekend hanging around a few T3 RX8s that are running the double regional to see how well they do. One of them was on the rack at EMI Racing last night and I got to look at how Erik did the Penske shock setup. Really cool.

Nope. The Rusty Old Datsun with less horsepower from its NA L6 was multiple seconds per lap faster around WSIR then Amir's car. Also, overall weight and weight distribution was about the same given that the ROD had its L6 engine moved back and down. Now, with more development time and money Amir's 260Z can be much faster around a race track. I guess that it has the potential to run 1.25s around WSIR. Every car is unique and requires testing and develoment time to extract its full potential. Amir's car has not yet had that time spent on it. My old Datsun did.

Exactly! The engine is the LEAST of your concerns when building a car for road racing. Pick the chassis first and light weight is one of the most important criteria. Less weight helps braking, cornering, reliability, and accleleration.

OK.