johnc

Single ball joint: http://www.geocities.com/cesargrau/mac_multi_m3.jpg

Its something PHP has to allow users to rate each other. Its not something we care about on this site and is meaningless. A while ago we admins played around with it and somehow mine got boosted up to a bunch of green or grey bars.

Can you help me get it into my truck?

Well... the best strut front suspension out there from a geometry standpoint (that I have experience with) is the E36 M3...

As Jon said and the Stoptec article states, a porportioning valve just reduces pressure at some predetermined rate. Generally they are used to get brake balance right for hard braking under dry conditions with good tires. A balance bar fine tunes brake balance for changes in vehicle load, tire and brake wear, and track conditions.

I'll be doing seam welding and a roll cage for my vintage racing 240Z. I just need a month of free time in the shop, which isn't looking like any time soon. And, yes, it is a pain, but you've fixed all the structurual problems with the chassis and strengthened it. This is a car you can race for 10 years and not worry about the chassis. Plus, you can bump up the spring rates beyond what you ran before.

What you've done to date will help the car. A wedled in roll bar helps stiffent the rear of the a lot. The bolt-in roll bars offered by MSA are more a safety items and don't do much to stiffen the chassis.

We talked. Hood goes on today whenever he shows up. BTW... I don't do instant message 'cuz I'm not on the computer most of the time. Its hard to weld and type at the same time. Also, if anyone has trouble contacting me, the web site (http://www.betamotorsports.com) has phone, fax, and e-mail information. Pretty amazing how that works...

Something like this:

I thought we set up the donation virus so that once a member makes a donation the amount is doubled every year and is automatically withdrawn from the same account? Oh, this isn't the Admin forum...

You're not wrong or dumb. I don't agree with the formulas because tire width is not as important as tire compound. For a perfect example look at top fuel dragsters. Using the formula above: 6,500 horsepower * .788mm = 5,122mm (16.8 FEET). If I recall a lane on a drag strip is about 30' wide so the 33.5' of tire width the formula calculates means the dragster is going to take out the starter and the tree.

I don't think I would like an oil named Fusion. That's nothing I want going on in my engine.

V-TEC (Valve Technology).

I read all the sentences in your posts. I guess racing for almost ten years using the buttons as I describe them doesn't count for much. The buttons have worked fine for me, Bryan Lampe (past Cal Club ITS champ), John Williamson (past Cal Club BSP champ), and many other 240Z racers here on the west coast. Shoot, we even sometimes run the diff side stub axles just pushed in without any bolt or clip if we run out of time swapping diffs between sessions or are helping another racer out by loaning them our diff. Diff might get a little greasy, but we never had a halfshaft pop out. But hey, what do we know. Do whatever you want, I was just offering some advice and I wasn't trying convince you one way or the other.

OK, I understand you're (or my) confusion. Forget your original "slice" idea from an existing stub axle. In the past I just used bar stock, turned it down to the correct diameter, beveled and cut a 3/8" thick slice, drilled, and then tapped the center hole.

Another alternative is to drill and tap that "slice" so it can be held in place by the bolt going through the stub axle. I used to have a number of these "slices" (us west coast racers call them buttons) that are used just for this purpose. Be sure to bevel the edges of the button so it can be inserted through the snap ring and give the snap ring a groove to sit in.

Paul, remember, this is HybridZ and we don't want to discourage radical modifications to our cars. I do agree that this rear suspension swap is unproven and may not improve handling at all, but, Scotty (and others) have swapped a Corvette C4 rear suspension into a 240Z with great results for their drag racing and street driving applications. That was something I would have bet against... and lost.

A simple question: Does anyone know where the roll and instant centers are on the 240SX rear suspension? A simple suggestion: Until these two items are known, I would wait to do the swap.

Read the 2005 NHRA rule book and yes, 6" x 6" x .125" plate is the minimum for any tube attachment to the unibody.

That should work just fine.

Any bar attachment to a unibody structure requires a plate. Typically these plates are at least made of .080" thick mild steel (.095 is more typical) and are bent (or cut and welded together) to tie into more then one panel on the unibody. For your "D" bar I would make the plate so it spreads the load to the floor pan and the rear bulkhead. Probably 5" wide with 5" on the floor pan and 5" up on the bulkhead (5" x 10" plate with a bend in the middle of the 10" length). Make sure its welded all the way around the perimeter where it contacts the unibody and bar "D" has a tight, normal, fit to the plate. Weld bar "D" all the way around where it contacts the plate making sure you get good penetration on both parts.

Yes, just as if you're mounting an a-arm.

White car was mine. I ran 275/45-16 tires on 16 x 10 wheels. Also, try not to run a tire taller then 25" unless you relocate the front LCA inner mount.

I've used GoJacks for years and they are light years ahead of the HF dollies. GpJacks work so well you have to be careful moving the car because it can get away from you.

I phrased it wrong to try and make it easier for folks to understand. The critical part is to make sure the pivot points at B/C (near the existing TC rod mount) and A/B (LCA mount) are in the same plane in relationship to the LCA (side A).