johnc

Tony, I can't see anywhere on the exhaust side of the turbo where I can bolt something up: I've assumed that the V-band needs to be welded to the flange as below: I can weld cast iron so I guess I need to take this thing a part. Anyone have any instructions? As you can see, I'm turbo ignorant.

Can I weld on the exhaust turbo housing? I need to attach a short tube length and lip for a V-Band clamp and I plan on welding it to the 1/2" flange on the housing that extends out from the impeller area (T04). I assumed it would be no big deal, but I felt I better check before potentially destroying a turbo.

Earthing kit, poorly designed brake upgrade, and a bolt head pushing on the MC. Internet automotive engineering at its best!

I noticed in the picture that your R180 differential is still mounted in the forward position. Unless this is something you want to keep for the sake of originality, you should get a moustache bar from a late 1971, 1972, or 1973 240Z to position your R180 rearward. This was a fix Nissan did mid-1970 to correct noise issues and it also puts the halfshafts at a better angle. EDIT: You'll also need the curved rear transverse link brace from the same donor car.

Nice to see that head making a name for itself... And poeple wonder why a racing head costs thousands of dollars?

Maybe. Mine came close, beating Vipers, Corvettes, and 911s, but a well driven GT3 or F40 would beat it easily. http://www.nsxfiles.com/otc_2004_day5.htm Expect to spend upwards of $50,000 to do it.

It wouldn't be legal in 34 states...

So, I've been hearing about this myspace thing for a while, so I decide to go to the home page. The first thing is a list of "Cool New People." Enough said. Have fun all you "Cool New People." But then I remembered my nephew's band has a myspace page and they got voted to be the opening band for the Taste of Chaos tour when it hits Long Beach, all from the myspace members. http://www.myspace.com/takethecrown

Offer money... Actually, it will probably be difficult to find a good amateur road racer who is willing to spend the time working with you to get the car setup. Forget the pro drivers... Most amateur road racers have cars of their own and are trying to win in some series. Most also have day jobs so they are time limited. Getting their attention for a testing day is difficult because that's a day they could be spending on getting their own cars setup. Some things you can try: 1. Build the car for a specific, well known regional racing series. 2. Build the car to the highest race preparation standards you can afford. 3. Don't scrimp on safety equipment. 4. While building the car, hang around the track at the racing series you're focusing on to get to know who the hot shoes are. 5. While hanging around the track look over competitor's cars in the racing series you plan to compete in. 6. After you've been to at least four different races and the car is just about done, create your plan and budget for at least two full test days and for an entire year of racing. 7. Ask to talk with the hot shoes you've identified and any promising rookies that you might have spotted. 8. Present your plan to them and find out if they are interested. 9. Find out how much money (if any) they can contribute to the team effort. 10. Make a decision.

Nahhhh. Keep building and selling these things and eventually you'll have enough to buy Mumford's old Viper. It just sold (again) for $65,000. That car has sold three times in the last three years for the exact same amount.

I installed a 20B into FD RX7 for Amir and now I'm working on a 13B single turbo powered RX8. Some pictures are here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/services/hybrids.html

Orange County Sandblasting, Inc. 415 W Walnut Ave Orange, CA 92867-6635 (714) 532-4633 Figure about $800 to completely media blast a 240Z shell, doors, fender, hood, and hatch.

The AN Dash Numbering System is a US military standard for hose fittings (AN is an abbreviaiton for Air Corps/Navy) and was developed in the late 1930s to organize military aircraft hardware into a servicewide system of interchangeable parts. The numbering system itslef refers to a flexible hose that is equivilant in flow rate to a metal hard line with an outside diameter measured in 1/16ths of an inch. So, a -6 hose is equivilant in flow rate to a metal hard line 6/16ths (3/8 or 9.5mm) in OD. A -12 hose is equivilant in flow rate to a metal hard line 12/16ths (3/4 or 19mm) in OD. Some people mistakenly state that a -6 hose is a 3/8" hose, but its actually not. Its a hose that flows the same as a 3/8" metal hard line and the OD is actually much larger then 3/8". Hose end fittings, flares, thread pitches, etc. are all standardized in the the AN system. In addition, there are two type of replaceable hose ends, single nipple and double nipple with the single nipple all but obsolete.

Evan, If I remember correctly, the tires on your car were not the best and I think were not even speed rated. Which means your tires were good to 115mph.

There's a more fundamental question that needs to be answered before I can make any recommendations, but first some background. Any car can feel safe, stable, and good handling when driven at 8/10ths. As you go beyond the safe, stable, comfortable handling area you move closer to the edge of performance. How sharp that edge is determined by suspension setup and engine power. Higher horsepower sharpens the "at the limit" edge. Higher spring rates and a chassis that responds like lightning also sharpens that edge. A sharper edge means higher corner speeds, higher lateral Gs, higher speeds at the end of the straights, and faster lap times, but only if the driver can keep the car balanced on that sharp edge. If the driver does not have the skill, focus, and endurance to drive that car on a sharp, knife edge lap after lap, then the car will be slower around the track, difficult and uncomfortable to drive, and might even be dangerous. For a driver still bulding his on-track skill set, a car that is more forgiving at its limit will allow a more confident exploration of the performance edge. A mistake can be felt and corrected if the car is providing room for mistakes (a wdier edge). The driver has a chance to learn how to drive at the edge, lap after lap, for 30 minutes at a time. So, my question is, how good a road race driver are you?

While building up the ROD I was down at Bill Savage's shop and we did a little test. Setup: 1. Welded R180 diff. 2. Difff stib axles locked in place. 3. Solid moustache bar bushings. 4. No front diff mount. 5. Front of the diff located by three straps. We put a torque wrench on the front pinion nut and applied torque while watching the moustache bar. At about 125 ft. lbs. we could see the bar bend into a very slight "S" shape viewed from below. For that we deduced that even solid bushings on the moustache bar won't keep from imparting side loads into the front diff mount. Welding a gusset across the face of the moustache bar and retesting showed no flexing to the point where the pinion nut started to turn (around 240 ft. lbs.).

The Z front diff mount is designed to control for/aft and nose vertical movement. The moustache bar is designed to control torque. By installing just a solid front diff mount that mount now also controls torque, which as we can see, the diff front crossmember was not designed for. A proper solid diff mounting requires solid moustanche bar bushings and moustache bar reinforcement to make it stop acting as a for/aft spring. The ROD had that and never had a diff mounting problem in over two years of racing. Engine and trans were also solidly mounted.

That's what Bryan Lampe ran in his ITS 240Z for a number of years. In my 240Z when I ran it in Solo2 BSP I ran the Nissan Comp pressure plate, Tilton aluminum flywheel, and the same clutch disk behind a 2.8L.

375 lb springs and 28mm/22mm anti-roll bars are a lot of spriing to add to a 2,400 lb car with no aero. I suggest you back off a bit and run something like 225/250 lb springs and 25mm front and 19mm rear ARBs. Remember, this is a strut equipped car so the motion ratio is .98 front and .97 rear, unlike Mustangs and Camaros with a .5 motion ratio.

Hawthorne Effect An experimental effect in the direction expected but not for the reason expected; i.e. a significant positive effect that turns out to have no causal basis in the theory, but is apparently due to the effect on the participants of knowing themselves to be studied in connection with the outcomes measured. Or, more simply, someone who spends mony on the Tornado wants to see improvements in fuel mileage (to validate their purchase decision) so they drive more carefully.

Markus, search this site using the term "R200" and you will find loads of information.

Unless you're building a drag specific car, stop worrying about squat. Spring rates are chosen primarily to achieve neutral, steady state cornering balance. For the shocks you have, I would keep the 225s in front and go to 250s in the rear. Also add a rear anti-roll bar about 19mm in diameter and put a 25 or 27mm anti-roll bar in front.

That's some sturdy stuff! You might think about drilling some lightening holes in non-critical places to get back some of the extra 10lbs. Regarding the bottom rail and the floor pan: 1. Get the floor pan as flat as possible with a rubber or plastic hammer. That is a basic dimension reference. 2. Try to move the rail up to the floor pan with a jack. 3. Or, as you thought of, drill a few holes and use bolts and washers to bring things in line. Drill in the center of the rail (not the edges) and use those pilot holes for later, larger lightening/drain holes. Once you get started on this you'll find that things go pretty quick.

I always take the bellhousing (if possible) and rear yoke out of any transmission I toss. The best way to learn how to shif a dog box tranny is by driving someone else's car that has one. Seriously, if there's a racing school within a reasonably distance that uses a formula car with a dog box tranny then a day or two spent at the school will be worth it.

The diagonal brace is welded in. The harness bar, from the last one I saw, it also welded in but it is not welded to the diagonal brace. But its been at least a year since I looked at (or sold) one of these Autopower roll bars. I suggest you call Autopower to check. BTW... I am no longer an Autopower or Odyssey battery dealer. I didn't sell enough and didn't want to invest thousands of dollars up front to get Jobber pricing, so it was easy for potential customers to find cheaper prices elsewhere.