johnc

The ROD ran the Tilton 800 setup and I just installed another 800 setup in a customer's vintage racing 240Z running an L6 and a G-Force T5:

That should work just fine although I would like to see how the aluminum structure is attached to the steel body. Bolts are OK, structural adhesives and rivets would be better.

The biggest issues you will face will be setting up the rear suspension to get that power to the ground. If you plan on switching to the 240SX rear suspension, you're basically on your own figuring that out and making sure the front and rear roll centers are right. If you plan on using the 240Z rear suspension then here are a few tips: 1. You'll need to upgrade the rear lower control arms. Write Ross another check. 2. You should run monoballs instead of poly or rubber inner LCA bushings. 3. You should build stronger, custom transverse link and transverse link braces. 4. You should build a stronger front differential crossmember. 5. You should install a welded in roll bar that ties the rear strut towers into the rockers, has a welded in strut tower brace, and you might want to think about tying in the rear subframe that the transverse link braces bolt to. The above will help keep the rear suspension located properly at the horsepower levels you're planning. Since its MOSTLY a street car you should not install a roll cage. Instead, build some subframe connectors that connect the front and rear together. Once all of this is done then you can start figuring out spring rates (probably the same as recommended on hundreds of threads here), shocks, ARBs, wheel/tire combo, etc.

Angle iron has very little torsional strength. Tubular structures are stronger then structures made out of flat or angle stock. The top of the core support is a tubular structure so you should replace it with a similar design and the higher you attach the replacement piece the more it will get back the strength that's missing now.

And, unfortunately, you are... Think of the engine compartment as a box with the entire core support as one end, the firewall and cowl box as the other, and the lower frame rails and upper inner fender frame rails as the sides. The following items rely on the structural integrity of that box: 1. Crossmember (which includes engine, steering rack, and LCA mounts). 2. Front ARB. 3. Strut towers (which include the upper front suspension mounts). 4. TC rods. 5. Steering column. 6. Brake and clutch MC. 7. Hood hinges. 8. Radiator. In essence you've created something that doesn't really exist: a three sided box. The strut tower bar has probably kept things somewhat aligned but you really need to put that core support back together. BTW: the stock core support is much stronger then ANY bolt in strut tower brace and is most likely stronger the most welded in strut tower braces. BTW2: Wonder what's going to happen to the front of the car in a collision without the top part of the core support?

Taylor Race Engineering: http://www.taylor-race.com Here's a recent e-mail Craig sent me regarding an annular clutch release setup I put in a customer's L6/T5 car: Great guy to work with.

Or you can make it tall...

Looks good. BTW... you don't need to put the welds that close together. 1" welds with spacing 1.5" is fine. Might as well do the whole car now that you've started...

I would choose between the three based on the best deal I could get from the dealer. I wouldn't necessarily choose the cheapest price, just which dealer threw in the most "stuff" that you will need to get started. A good auto-darkening helmet for 50% off list would probably seal the deal for me.

Personally I would not add to the torque requirement for gland nut tightening by having it contact the threaded sleeve. Its important that the gland nut contact the insert and tighten it down into the strut tube. Maybe cut a 1/4" length out of a 2" radiator hose and slip it between the gland nut and threaded tube after adjusting the wled-on ring for the threaded sleeve down 1/8". The rad hose will crush against the threaded sleeve and not affect gland nut tightening.

One other important aspect of a claim is your agent. When my camper was stolen from a storage lot, State Farm (auto) and State Farm (home) both pointed fingers at each other and said, "Their responsibility." Then both pointed fingers at me and said, "Not our responsibility." My agent (Doug Troxel, Brea, CA, 714-525-8400) stepped up and really went to bat for me. I ended up getting it covered under my auto policy and got a very fair price.

Because true mandrel bending equipment is very expensive: http://www.vansantent.com/2060EX.pdf And most equipment cannot handle bending Ti. Its really tough stuff and will gall unless the tooling used is either cadium plated or has other, more sophisticated coatings.

You can insure the trailer directly. Mine is insured with State Farm Auto for all of $10.71 per year. I could add a contents rider for another $25 per year and that will cover $10K worth of stuff inside the trailer.

The bigger issue with rods in the L6 is rpm. If you regularly see rpms (both acceleration and deceleration) north of 7,200 rpm then aftermarket rods are important.

"A" pillar roll cage post so the driver can reach it as he's crawling out the driver's window or a corner worker can see it and shut it off if the driver is unconscious.

You might want to search Amazon.com for a book on head porting before getting out the Dremel.

I think, from reading posts on this site, that the 05L head is fine for a 2L engine but not for anything much bigger.

What do you mean by "stock?" Have they been: Deburred? Polished? Straightened? Shot peened? Cryo treated? Balanced? Lightened? 9mm ARP Bolts? Or are they pulled out of a junkyard engine, sprayed with Brake Kleen, and bolted in the new engine re-using the old rod bolts?

Funny, I'm starting work next month on a SCCA SM2 autocross 240Z that will be making about 425hp, running 285 width tires, and will weigh around 2,300 lbs. Chassis and suspension setup will be around $15,000.00 to make that car handle and put power down. Its competition inclides 2 FD RX7s making 450+ horsepower and Gary Thomason's 500+ hp C5 Z06 Corvette that stomped a number of other cars in a recent magazine test.

Here's your engine and turbocharged versions make around 600hp. Unfortunately you have to buy the complete car and then spend an additional $18,000 for the turbocharging: http://filelibrary.myaasite.com/Content/2/2642/8371142.pdf

If you have a Dremel they make little wire wheels that attach to them. I would try and wire wheel as much of that area as possible. Then try and stop any more rust with some type of treatment recommended here. Instead if welding in some angle iron, bend up some sheet metal and weld that in place over the rusted/treated area. I you can patch it with sheet metal on both sides and the area is well treated, I wouldn't give it another thought.

AN5 steel bolts work great. You'll just need to measure the grip length.

Shocks dyno graphs (thanks to Cary for extracting them from a .pdf and making them large enough for us guys with old eyes to see). The first is for the 8610-1149. The upper half is rebound force and the lower half is compression force. Both forces are measures based on the speed of the shock shaft. Force is measured in Newton Meters and velicity is measured in meters per second. The second graph is an overlay of two. The 8610-1149 curves along with the rebound curve of the 8611-1257RACE which is supposed to match exactly the curve of the 8610-1437RACE that replaced the 8610-1149.

Shocks dyno graphs (thanks to Cary for extracting them from a .pdf and making them large enough for us guys with old eyes to see). The first is for the 8610-1149. The upper half is rebound force and the lower half is compression force. Both forces are measures based on the speed of the shock shaft. Force is measured in Newton Meters and velicity is measured in meters per second. The second graph is an overlay of two. The 8610-1149 curves along with the rebound curve of the 8611-1257RACE which is supposed to match exactly the curve of the 8610-1437RACE that replaced the 8610-1149.

This is perfect example of a really stupid statment. You've never driven a 6M yet you're willing to offer an opinion based on rumor and then come to some inane conclusion. Do any of you guys really know what you're talking about? We don't care if you heard it from some guy or read it on the internet. Bring tech! Do your own research, actually drive the cars, and don't rely on rumors.