johnc

Sorry, thread's dead...

Are you sure its the monoball itself that is rattling or could it be: 1. The monoball is moving within the mount? 2. The shock shaft is moving within the monoball? 3. The shock is moving inside the strut tube (gland nut loosening)? The EMI plates I ran above never had a rattle from the monoball or the mounting in 10 years of use. I have seen EMI plates where the snap ring grooves holding the monoball in place were damaged by a loose shock shaft mounting. Then the load on the monoball and snap ring became a series of reversing impact loads which slowly galled the snap ring groove in the camber plates. The monoballs were fine but the camber plate itself was damaged.

There shouldn't be any loosness in the monoballs unless they are low grade commercial units without any lining.

If you run a proper coolant mix, rust shouldn't be an issue. You can also have the tubing powder coated inside and out.

You also weld to add material to the intake and (more often) exhaust ports to reshape them and/or raise or lower their position in the head.

CF one with lexan.

Unless you're willing to remove the window mechanisms there isn't much you can do to reduce the weight of the 1972 doors. Pulling all of that from my 1970 doors saved 10.5 lbs. on each door. What's funny about the early 240Zs is that the hood with its hinges, the hatch with its hinges, and a door with all the glass, all weigh around 45 lbs. A carbon fiber hood and hatch can save 35 lbs. on each end and removing the window glass saves another 21 lbs. That's 91 lbs. off the car which is 4% on a 2,300 lb. 240Z.

For the vast majority of the time an anti-roll bar is on a car its not under any load. I have yet to ever see one that's worn out.

One thing to be aware of, those Le Mans style fuel tank caps are not legal with any road race or track sanctioning body unless you have a screw on cap underneath. Check witht eh Silver State Classics folks before you trailer out there. Car looks mean.

I don't have the IT rulebook handy but from what I've seen here on the West Coast you can weld a reasonably sized mounting plate to the top of the strut tower as part of a strut tower brace setup. The complete PDK bolt-in strut tower brace is illegal in IT because it has bracing that extends to the firewall. I think those braces can be unbolted. For the rear, just weld a cross brace that attaches very low to the rear braces on the roll cage.

I might as well plug Erik's camber plates: Machined from 7075 aluminum allow. Replaceable military spec sperical bearing (alloy steel and heat treated race, PTFE Liner, alloy steel, heat treated and hard chromed ball, lot number tracking). Military spec Torington bearing for the front camber plates. Stainless steel attachment bolts. I had Erik's original set that were run on the street, at autocrosses, and road raced (35,000 miles) from 1992 to 2002 and pulled them off the car. They needed no refurbishing, other then cleaning, and I sold them to a friend (Bryan Lampe) who raced on them for another two years and is putting them on yet another 240Z he's building. Here's what they looked like when I pulled them off my 240Z:

This is a shot of the EMI Camber paltes: and here's how they fit on the strut:

I've never heard of anyone running anti-roll bars that big on a 240Z. As suggested, try a 1" front and a 3/4" or smaller rear.

I think so. From what I hear the E46 2.5L isn't up to the same horsepower levels as the E36 2.5L but they get more torque over a wider rpm band.

FYI... the E46 323i (2.5L) is 2006 legal for ITS without restrictors and I know Sunbelt has built 5 engines so far this year for an equal number of the old E36 guys jumping to the E46 chassis. Also, Chet Whittle will be selling both of his "top the limit" prepared E36 325is'.

Either camber plate works and I honestly can't say which one is "best." I've raced 240Zs with both and from the driver's seat, once the car is properly setup, you can't tell the difference. I will say the the EMI Plates are easier to install but more difficult to adjust.

I sell the EMI Racing camber plates. $595 for all 4, no cutting or welding needed, and you can adjust caster. You do realize that'll you'll also need a coil over kit and new 2.5" OD springs with the camber plates all of us are recommending?

Uuuhhh, that's not the point of a single shot rifle. BTW... I'm saving for this in .45/90: http://www.uberti.com/firearms/1885-high-wall.tpl

I'm searching for another video of Stuck driving a BMW X5 at the ring that had one of the 650hp BMW ALMS 12 cylinder race engines installed. The X5 had racing slicks and different shocks, but was supposedly otherwise stock. In the video Stuck is taking a car magazine editor for a ride and Stuck intentionally went off the track at close to 250kph (150 mph), twice. You can hear the editor screaming and begging him not to do that again.

Ask Speeder about Porkchop...

From the master himself, Hans Stuck: http://www.dgtalpimp.com/m3_gtr_nurburgring.wmv

If you don't intend on competing at a National Tour or at the Nationals why don't you build the car exactly the way you want and run it in your local "run whatchya brung" class. A National level (trophy) SM2 or F Prepared 240Z will cost around $25,000 at the low end with the FP car being the cheaper option.

Original plan was to buy and build a 350Z but I couldn't find a reasonably priced one that hadn't been either sitting at the bottom of a lake for 3 months or was reassembled from two wrecked cars. A lot of my customers are racing 240Zs with various vintage organizations (VARA, HSR West) so I thought it would be better for me and my business to race where my customers do. This brown car (I'm thinking of naming it Mr. Hankey) will ultimately be a 2.4L vintage legal racer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4584832618

No search will EVER flat out give you an answer. Its not Mr. Wizard, it just gives you links to information and then you have to come to your own conclusions based on the information presented. This thread is closed. (Strike 2).