johnc

I generally pay a $150 minimum so I save up bunches of parts before dropping them off for powder coat. I can get one TC rod powder coated for $150 or four struts, both TC rods, both steering arms, a front crossmember, both diff crossmembers, all four LCAs, and the transverse link braces for $150.

And Alan told you this? (taken from your other thread): If he is claiming that engine is smog legal (will pass smog) he can get shut down and fined by the California BAR. And, as a bunch of us mentioned in the other thread, this engine will not pas smog.

One reason I pressure test any oil/fuel/water line I make to 150psi with my air compressor. I'm glad the damage was minimal and no one go hurt. Flaming dutchie!

The only issue with an exit in front of the axle is trailer loading. The pipes are at the exact point where the car is lowest at the breakover point on the trailer. A beaver tail trailer helps as does 8' ramps. A 2.5" exhaust should fit up nice and tight and not cause any scraping issues. There are no "tricks" needed. Just find a competent shop that can install the exhaust properly.

I'm also not understanding the desire for spring preload on the S30 - unless you need to control ride height/pitch for under body aero. Preload has no affect on spring rate and OEMs use preload to get the static ride height they want while still using soft springs for ride. The current Viper runs 3" of preload on a 250 lb. in. spring.

No and you're the only one that can judge how annoying it might be. Probably won't be any faster. You typically gear for a max of 70mph in second gear for an autocross. So if the 4:38 gear does that, it will help. No. I would spend money on a seat time first, LSD second, and shocks third. Gearing is a distant 5th on 6th on my list when it comes to going fast on an autocross course.

We've sent an Oscar a PM asking him about these issues. I don't expect much of a reply.

Don't just blindly torque it to a number. The FSM has specific steps to install and to measure the bearing preload. You adjust the installation torque to meet the preload spec.

Just to let you folks know, that company outsourced their warehousing and distribution to another company in mid 2011. I've been told that company has at least one subsidiary company that sells the products as a warehouse distributor. Its rumored that company gets first dibs on any product coming into the USA regardless of the timing of other orders from WDs and they also sell direct right off the web site. IMHO, your best chance to actually get product is to order through them. My guess is that the WDs (like I was) are being squeezed out by limiting product availability.

How fresh is the rebuild? I would expect you'll need a few thousand miles for the valves and rings to settle in a seal correctly. Most new engines make their best power after about 20,000 miles of driving.

Check this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88915-coilovers-emusa-vs-megan/page__p__844716__hl__megan__fromsearch__1#entry844716

C'mon dude. The smog techs are fully aware of those little games and they don't work. The BAR has implemented the STAR program that puts a lot more measurement and testing in place for techs and they are not going to risk their jobs when something as obvious as a dose of alcohol in the tank comes into their shop. Its getting difficult to cheat through a smog test with a legitimate smog tech. You might be able to find a tech that will fudge the test, but if you can find that tech, BAR can to and they have really stepped up their enforcement. Again, the few smog techs I know will not risk their job or business for someone trying to cheat through the smog inspection.

The intake manifold is not a big concern at the horsepower numbers you list. Some port work, extrude honing, etc. will get all the flow you'll ever need out of a good L6 fuel injection intake manifold. There are far more important things you should be thinking about at 500hp.

That probably won't work. Read up why here: http://www.bearriverconverters.com/data/CatOpp.pdf

You're much better off performance wise to the bump the CR a bit (to 9 to 1) and run at least 34 to 36 degrees of timing advance. And yes, you won't pass smog with that cam.

Man! I just thought of 10 different uses for that little in-line thermostat and it can handle fuel and oil with Viton seals! Thanks Jim.

Nice Power Point that helps people understand exhaust system noise. http://www.enoisecontrol.com/related_articles/engine_exhaust_sound_control_barrier_wall.pdf

No part number on the merge. I get it built custom for each customer.

Delivery of Evidence of Registration Before Disassembly: Penalties 5500. (1) Any person, other than a licensed dismantler, desiring to disassemble a vehicle of a type required to be registered under this code, either partially or totally, with the intent to use as parts only, to reduce to scrap, or to construct another vehicle shall deliver to the department the certificate of ownership, the registration card, and the license plates last issued to the vehicle before dismantling may begin. (2) Any person who is convicted of violating subdivision (a) shall be punished upon a first conviction by imprisonment in the county jail for not less than five days or more than six months, or by a fine of not less than fifty dollars ($50) or more than five hundred dollars ($500), or by both that fine and imprisonment; and, upon a second or any subsequent conviction, by imprisonment in the county jail for not less than 30 days or more than one year, or by a fine of not less than two hundred fifty dollars ($250) or more than one thousand dollars ($1,000), or by both that fine and imprisonment.

Same is true for welding, gardening, landing on the moon, brain surgery, etc.

If by length you mean the front to back dimension then no way it will fit. If your length is actually how wide it is across the car then yes it will fit.

Not needed. Just adds weight.

Yes I do.

Crawl under the car and start measuring. That will help you determine which type of axle location will fit the chassis. Speedway Motors has all the parts needed to build your trialing arm/4 link setup: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Race-Coil-Spring-Trailing-Arm-Rear-End.html

How about mine? http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products_main.php?cat=10&scat1=47&scat2=43 You get the Koni racing inserts which have a bunch of support in Ireland for rebuilds and re-valving, the DP racing camber plates that don't require any cutting or welding on the strut tower, you get a completely rebuilt rear hub with new bearings, etc., and the struts are inspected, crack tested, and powder coated in whatever color you want. http://www.koni.ie/suspension/car-tuning-in-ireland/