johnc

Since the FAQ uses 10" tall springs and 5" tall collars, you need to do some math to figure out what will work for you. For a 280Z I suggest you shorten the front struts for the BZ3099s to fit without a spacer in the bottom and take note of how much you remove from the strut tube. Remove the exact same amount from the rear strut tube and make a correct length spacer to fit the BZ3013.

When you get your tool, cut about 10 four inch lengths of brake line and flare each end. Once you get through 20 flares you'll be able to do in in your sleep.

IMHO... A powerful L6 engine, regardless of induction type, has a power band from around 3,500 rpm on up. That's just the nature of the beast. Efforts to make power and torque below that numbers is wasting time and money. Gear the car to work with that power band minimum and everything become magic.

I don't sell Tokico anymore. The Illuminas are fine, the HTS are better, Bilsteins are even better, Konis are better still, and hopefully the 36mm Bilsteins will be even more better...

Going through that right now with our little dog Howdy. It sucks that people outlive their dogs but I know I'll see them again when I finally pass away. Imagine ALL of your old dogs running up to you as you go through the Pearly Gates. Imagine the piles of poop you're going to have to pick up every day! Sorry you're having to go through this Mike.

The Tokico Illuminas are somewhat digressive - at least they have knee point in the rate increase. But because rebound and compression valving are connected when you get rebound adjusted to the right point there is too much compression damping. The Tokico HTS shocks (112F and 102F) have much better valving and the adjuster only affects rebound. They are worth searching for. Also, the Bilsein P30-0032 is a good shock for a reasonable price. Unfortunately, as of right now, Bilstein says there are none available in the US.

Why is everyone so worried about first gear?

None. I have talked with a couple racers running them and all are generally happy with the results. Some complaints about noise but its in a race car...

Since the 240Z has 50mm strut tubes we already know that the eBay K Sport vendor doesn't know much about the cars. The K Sport shocks have the same quality and performance issues as the Megans.

To expand on the inside wheele spin issue regarding gear LSDs... (from Wavetrac) A lot of this can be minimized with suspension setup and adding a bit of preload within the gear driven LSD. None of the issues mentioned above are noticeable on a street driven car.

Did someone delete posts from this thread?

What Jon said above. Helicals like the Gleason, Torsen, and Quiafe have a greater tendency to go open if you get less then 5% torque resistance on one of the wheels. I experienced it first hand when I swapped from a CLSD to a Quaife ATB in my racing 240Z. The Quaife makes a loud "grumbling/whirring" noise when it goes open and can get damaged if you get the inside tire spinning really good and then drop the weight back on that tire. Swapping springs around, adjsuting the slow speed compression valving, and going with a 5/8" adjustable rear ARB solved the problem. After that the car accelerated hard out of corners.

Adjusting mixture on a SU carb involves repositioning and/or changing the needle. You should get a book about performance tuning SU carbs before making any mods to the exhaust.

That is an odd statement. To rephrase it: "The atmospheric psi in front of the radiator is equal to 40% of the vehicle's velocity." I do not know of any way to convert psi into velocity give the information in the sentence. Now, if the sentence is supposed to read: "The velocity of the air flowing through the radiator is equal to 40% of the vehicle's velocity." then we have something that can be checked.

You do know that you have to run your car through a smog inspection when you bring it into the state and register it? And you'll undergo the same inspection very two years. You might get an exemption if you're on active military duty and temporarily transferred to a base here in CA. Even if you don't get an exemption, most cops will give you a pass if you show military ID, your home state driver's license, and say you're on a temporary duty. Just drive like a respectful adult and be polite if you're pulled over.

I talked with Dave two weeks ago. (480) 844-9677

Exactly! You don't need to worry about cast or forged pistons, the carbs won't let you run a high enough rpm to matter. You need to start over. Carbs work via a venturi effect - a difference in bore diameter between the intake of the carb and the narrowest part (the venturi). A DCOE 40 with a 32mm venturi will be less tunable and less effective then a DCOE45 with a 32mm venturi. Also, since you cam is designed to make power above 4,000 rpm why choke it off by purposely choosing a carb to enhance power below that rpm number?

Porsche 944 with the stock fuel tank and its in a better position then the 240Z.

No. You get pulled over for speeding, running a red light, street racing, illegal left turn, etc. and then the officer checks for equipment violations. Most of the time you've done something stupid to attract attention and the officer decides to check the car out because you've got a bad attitude.

Be sure to run the rear suspension fairly soft. Lifting an inside wheel cases the Torsen to go open and spin one wheel.

Fuel cells are not required for track day, autocross, or in most classes of vintage racing. Its a really, really good idea to install a FIA FT3 cell because burning to death sucks - for about 3 minutes.

Generally if you drive like a sane person and your car is understated your chances of getting pulled over is low. If you're gone to the trouble and it meets CA smog and is certified by a BAR referee then you ahve nothing to worry about.

Found this thread doing a different search. What Keith says above is so true. Jim Thompson has a beautiful F54/P90 turbo long block and some ancillary parts sitting in his shop for sale. Jim says its built for a reliable 600hp and I've been trying to sell it for two years to a number of Z folks who call me about getting a turbo engine built. All of them have said they are really interested at the $12.5K asking price and then I never hear from them again. I'm not even getting a cut of the deal, I'm just trying to turn the Z community on to a great engine at a cheap price. A similar BMW build from Epic sold in 5 minutes for $17.5k. Here are the specs on what's available: 9:1 compression Forged CP pistons Carrillo rods Ported, polished, big valve head Sunbelt special turbo cam ARP studs GTX3071R turbo

http://www.mcmaster.com/#copper-sealing-washers/=jodg8w

I don't know of any powder coater that will accept and coat parts that they have have not blasted/cleaned themselves. Its just too easy for something to go wrong.