johnc

You've got your answers.

The fill line needs to slope down to the fuel tank its entire length. From the picture it looks like there is a low spot in the line near the 90 that turns up to the filler opening in the side of the car. Fuel will pool there during normal driving and will be a fire hazard in an accident. Does your fuel cell have a roll over valve at the fill plate? If not, that would be a very, very good thing to add. A roll over valve in the vent line would also be a good idea. I made both of these suggestions because there is no bulkhead separating the fuel cell and fill line from the driver's compartment. Ideally you'll add a bulkhead separating the fuel cell and filler line from the rest of the passenger compartment. Without it, in a hard rear end collision, you could be sprayed with fuel - which hopefully does not ignite.

You do know that you have to remove any inner sleeve left behind in the front control arm? I assume you know that and I apologize for posting the obvious.

Diff coolers are not legal in IT. That's why we cooked the fluid in our R180s all the time. You also learn how to swap a hot diff between practice and qualifying, by yourself, in less then 35 minutes.

A new 2 way KAAZ unit is about $950. A new 1.5 way Cusco unit is about $1,200. Those are the cheapest new aftermarket units for the R200, other then the OBX. That price is just for the differential and does not include the ring and pinion and housing which you get with most of the used Z31 R200 LSD purchases.

You may be fine with the cops, but you won't be fine with the smog techs. Especially after the STAR program is fully implemented.

Need more rear spring rate.

If you get $500 for it, you are very lucky.

That RCI fill valve is for a real fuel cell, not the plastic Summit one. The two do not go together.

Fell asleep from too much VB.

Pep Boys has rebuilt 15/16" MCs, without the resiviors for pretty cheap.

So... do we call your Z a Morgan now?

^ outstanding point!

My guess is that there's something wrong with your camber plate install or the camber plates themselves. But, more importantly, what are the camber numbers when the car is on the ground and at static ride height?

On the thermostat housing in the normal place. I had a boiling over problem until I realized I was bypassing too much. Put a .063" restrictor in the bypass and solved that problem. Then lost an exhaust vale seat in number 5 from localized detonation (hot spot in the cc). Upped the system pressure to 30 psi and did the cooling system mod pulling coolant from the back of the head and between 5 and 6 up to the thermostat housing. Never had a problem after that and saw 200 to 210 temps even on 100+ degree days. Also ran a Niagra oil/water heat exchanged in the radiator so the cooling system was also taking car of cooling the oil. Never, ever saw oil temps above 250.

OK, I thought the temp stabilized at 220F. If the coolant temperature continues to rise and the cooling system is in good shape, that would indicate there isn't enough cooling capacity. The engine is putting in more BTUs then the radiator can shed. Increasing heat transfer through radiator (more fins, more tubes) is the most likely solution - assuming good airflow through the radiator and out the engine compartment. You might also want to make sure ALL the air goes through the radiator by sealing all the gaps around it. You're pretty close to having enough capacity if you're at 253F at shutdown in the pits. I'm assuming you are not running a cooling fan on the radiator.

Are talking about a tube frame car or a body on frame car like a pickup truck?

Are you talking about total camber change from full compression to full droop?

It sounds like the cooling system is fine except for getting the engine up to temp on cool days. 220 at the back of the head is pretty good considering a pressurized system won't see boiling until 240 or 250. Try what the truckers do, put a piece of cardboard in front the radiator and block off some of the air flow. Adjust as needed until you get the operating temp you want.

Tim has a good idea there. You won't be using the full capabilities of the V710 on the street and for the typical 7 or 8/10ths "flat out" street driving that most do the ETs will work fine.

Take the engine and trans out of the car. I'm sure there will be more areas that need attention.

If an engineering/fabrication project is your main goal, then something like this will be a lot of fun to create. But, as I mentioned above, the testing and setup once the car hits the track will determine how much (if any) of lap time improvement you see. That part of the effort is far more important then the basic engineering and fabrication and is generally more difficult to do. Look at Ferrari in Formula 1. They showed up this year with a shit car and, over 7 races and NO real testing, have made it a front runner (almost).

OK, what race sanctioning body are you competing with? What class will your V8 powered 300ZX be put in? What are the category and class rules? If you're in a completely open class (most likely) then what is the competition like in that class? What are the class lap time records at RA and VIR? How do those times compare with the lap records for SCCA GT1/GT2? What you want to determine is how much engineering you have to put into your Z32 to win. If the class is weak its pretty silly to spend tens of thousands of dollars and two years of work to dominate 3 guys who can't beat their grandma in a Camry.