johnc

The threaded end of that spindle pin was already mushroomed before it got hit with that tiny little hammer. It looks like a big ******* hammer was used before that tiny little hammer in the video.

Absolutely no criticism from me. Good job! A flex joint is a good idea and where you suggested placing it will work. The flex joint lets the whole assembly stress relieve itself the first few times you run the car.

Then start making brackets. If you want it, got out and make it happen.

First off, get the rule books. XP is probably you best place to run and you can be competitive locally. You have no chance nationally against cars like Fred Zusts's Monster Elise but that's a whole different world. As mentioned above, upgrade the shocks and reinforce the chassis before bumping up the spring rate.

I would pull the v-stacks or make a 90 degree elbow out of silicone hose that slips over the outer end of the v-stack. As long as you use that elbow on every venturi you're fine. I would ignore the Unisyn results, whatever they are, and re-test using the Synchrometer.

The AP1 S2K had a problem with tearing the front upper control arm mounts out of the chassis when road raced and autocrossed. There's a TSB from Honda that covers the repair and it was based on how I fixed about a 1/2 dozen cars for customers. Honda was in my shop taking pictures on how I did the fix and I, unfortunately, lit a Honda VP's Bruno Mali shoe on fire. I put it out one he stopped jumping around. IMHO, the snap oversteer issue in the S2K is exaggerated. The cars (especially the AP1) are very neutral and very responsive to the throttle. If you're lower in the rpm band and lift on a corner the results are subdued. If you're in the upper rpm band and you lift of the throttle in a corner the results are more dramatic. Very catch able if you get on the gas quickly and have quick hands. Once you figure it out you end up doing it on purpose because its such a hoot. Kinda like a stock suspension 240Z.

Don't use a Unisyn. Buy a Synchrometer: http://www.duckyimports.com/servlet/Detail?no=5

My suggestion would be to fine a six cylinder 3L turbo diesel application and junkyard the turbo, pump, injectors, fuel rail, and EMS from that application. Maybe a late 1980s Mercedes 350SDL?

What Mike says above regarding the M Coupe and Roadster. They have the previous generation E30 semi-trailing arm rear suspension and can be a handful at the limit, especially if you hit a bump. One lap, the corner is fine, next lap - oh shit!

The idea works and is the basis for merge collectors that I install on racing L6 exhaust systems: But it is ABSOLUTELY NOT a one size fits all modification. Engine displacement, cam, head flow, header design, etc. are all important considerations when designing a merge collector. Done right and you can improve mid-range and/or top end full throttle power without affecting the rest of the power band. Done wrong and you will reduce power across the board, create a big flat spot in the power band, or help mid-range and kill top end power. The item you link to above is basically a restriction in the exhaust pipe and not worth spending a dime on.

Yup. About $2,500 for a dry sump system for a SBC. ARE, Aviad, and others make systems. The big expense is the lines and fittings.

Yup. Dem's de 86-1811s. Good street shock. You can get them checked out and revalved (if necessary) by Koni. Just don't scratch the shock shaft.

So, if its not steel, what is the frame and roll bar/structure made of?

The extra effort wasn't worth it. They still finished mid-pack and spent double what others were spending on a good L24 IT build. Take the extra money you'll be spending on the overbore and pistons and put that into forged pistons, headwork, and cam.

Ask for the receipts. If no receipts, then its a regular L28 unless the seller can prove otherwise.

JASCO is (was) the main importer/distributor for Nissan LD28 parts here in the USA. They don't seem to be that now but I haven't been able to find another direct source. Nissan dealers used to order from JASCO if they even bothered with the LD engines.

Due to the path of least resistance, the only people that I know of that have tried this are cheater racers. None were successful.

Plumbing the oiling system is often a big pain in the ass. Although I've never pulled the trigger on one, dry sump systems look pretty good when you're having to cut and weld a pan to get what you need.

I can make a car "feel" stiffer by adding DynaMat to the doors. Had a customer tell me that after he drove his car home from my shop.

Just keep in mind that once you cut, you can't go back.

1. Small roundy thingy with holes. 2. Small roundy thingy with screws. 3. Under the work bench. 4. Large roundy thingy with screws.

Probably +1 to +1.5.

With setup and programming fees, new cartridges, cores, core cleanup, etc. its not cost effective - at least here in SoCal. I've researched it and given that the total sales will be 50 units over 5 years (if I'm really lucky), it just doesn't' work out. Secondly, tying my money up in 50 parts for years doesn't make business sense.

Search. There are distinct advantages to using the LD28 water pump in the gasoline engine L6 engines.

The LD28 pump is on the left;