johnc

The clips are internal tot he diff and should have come with the unit. Are you sure you've put the side axles all the way in? You should have to hit them in with a hammer.

We're fine with resurrecting old posts and adding more information.

There's a large difference in crash/impact energy between a 3,500 lb. car going 150 mph and a 2,500 lb. car going 90 mph.

Use the Tokico gland nut as Keith mentions. I save old gland nuts and put them in the tops of empty struts I have lying on shelves or when I send struts out to the powder coater. If you ever dent the top of a strut its a buttload of work to get the dent out and fix the threads.

There is no tire, other then a purpose built drag racing slick, that will give you "no spin" levels of traction with the horsepower you're talking about. My 325hp, 2,100 lb. 240Z could spin its 275/45-16 Hoosier R4s at will in 1st and most of 2nd gear if I tried. Build your engine with good throttle response, make sure your throttle linkage has plenty of travel and is smooth, run a good LSD, and learn how to drive the car.

Its a 7.5MB file, give it time.

If you're building a roll cage for wheel to wheel racing, please read section 9.4 before buying any tubing, cutting any metal, or stripping the interior. http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012GCR-updatedJanuary3.pdf

Well, your cage needs to conform with the basic construction requirements in the GCR. Download the rule book from here: http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012GCR-updatedJanuary3.pdf and read section 9.4 in depth. At a minimum you'll need 1.5" OD x .095" wall DOM tubing and there are specs for mail hoop, door hoop, door protection, plating, gussets, etc. Regardless of the class you run you have to meet the basic minimum cage requirements.

Agreed.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Engineering-Powertrain-Chassis-Vehicle/dp/1856175774/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1326904823&sr=8-6 http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Chassis-Engineering-Jornsen-Reimpell/dp/0750650540/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1326904823&sr=8-5

Keep in mind that that SCCA has road race cage rules that are category specific. Showroom Stock, Touring, Super Touring, and Improved Touring categories do not allow any bracing forward of the firewall. Production, Super Prodcution, and GT categories do allow forward bracing. Also, every region has a "run what you brung" class generally called ITE. In that class you can mostly do what you want as long as you're running on DOT-R tires. Check the supplemental regulations for the region you compete in to be sure.

A SCCA IT legal cage is about $2,500 including materials.

Vehicle and tire manufacturers are primarily concerned with four things: 1. A tire's load capacity. 2. Cost. 3. Fuel economy. 4. Noise. With modern traction and skid control systems they are less concerned with grip then they used to be, except in the higher performance cars. I actually have a chassis engineering book at home that discusses this kind of calculation for chassis engineers and the above items are the primary concerns in that book.

You can actually get a 1" bead down before the seam sealer starts contaminating the weld by: 1. Using 023 wire. 2. Turning up the heat as if you're welding 1/16" thick sheet. 3. Put a spot weld at the start and at the end of the bead. 4. Spot 4 times in between your start and finish spots. 5. Do all the above quickly (under 4 seconds). It takes the seam sealer time to melt, ignite, and smoke. If you can get the short bead down quick enough you can beat that. And move to different areas of the seam to keep from heating up a large area of seam sealer.

You really don't need the bar in your S30. The door opening is small enough and with the tubing you've used in your car you will not see a significant movement of the top of the A pillar in a rollover.

The bar is called "FIA Group N Windsscreen Pillar Reinforcement" (see 8.3.2.1.4 in the FIA Group N regulations.) Here are the specs: Based on the Dimension A requirement, its not required on most S30 roll cage installs because the S30 windshield is very upright. Its not a bad idea but you need to make sure that you're not hurting egress. I do install this bar on E36 Coupe cage builds. Its optional E36 4 door installs (again due to Dimension A) but its generally a good idea. FYI... I just remembered that I mocked this bar up on a 240Z and it interfered with steering and hurt getting in and out of the car for a bigger customer.

Looks like you hit your goals. Lots of torque from 3,500 to 6,500.

The issue is the term "Weld Thru." It does not mean you can "Weld On", only that it helps protect the metal from corrosion when the weld penetrates through the backside of the panel. You still need clean, bare metal at the weld bead.

...longitudinal...

Need to see a pic like this of you on the new Ninja...

Ninja 1000? That is a good day or couple day trip bike that can also be fast at VIR (hint, hint). A lot more comfortable then it looks. I've been riding my Z750S for about a year and love it. Did a track day at Cal Speedway and the bike performed flawlessly, even saved me from my own stupidity a couple times. We're going on a ride through Death Valley for a couple days the first of March.

No need to reinforce the crossmember. I box the engine mounting bracket that's welded to the crossmember.

Yes, Les is still around. Just keep trying. He's pretty busy and is not the best when it comes to new customer communication.

The roll cage, if made from 1.5" x .095" wall DOM, is legal for the Production and GT classes. The additional bracing forward of the firewall is not legal for Showroom Stock, Improved Touring, Touring, and Super Touring.

You know you own a Datsun shop... When you see a nut or bolt on the ground and not only do you know where it goes on the car, you know who's car it came off of. When you hear a L6 driving down the street and know its coming to your shop, even though the car is still 500 yards away behind a bunch of buildings. When you see a 240Z in the parking lot and wonder why its not parked in front of your shop. When you find suspension parts hidden in corners, behind machines, and covered in spider webs and have no idea how or when it got back there. When you spend an hour searching the shop for a Datsun part you know you have only to find it in Quickbooks on an invoice to a customer from 8 months ago. When you've tried to drill out a mustache bar because you were in a hurry and didn't want to search the Internet for the correct one. When you save old mustache bars because they are made of good spring steel and ruined your new TiN drill bit. When you have stacks of worn out aluminum brake drums because you're convinced they will be worth something, someday. When you can tell the difference between 240 and 280Z strut tubes from across the shop with you're welding helmet down. When Datsun customers come in and start to explain their plans or problems and you can finish their sentences before they get the third word out. When your shop, shop truck, and you start smelling like dead Dastun (gas, moldy jute, exhaust).