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johnc

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Everything posted by johnc

  1. johnc
    I don't think there's much bending load on the ends of the LCA. It takes mostly lateral (compression, tension) loads. There are some bending loads from acceleration and braking but most of those are probably tension compression also and the LCA tries to pivot forward and back. Vertical loads are taken by the strut and spring.
  2. johnc
    The stock Datsun rear LCA is very close to 14.5" center to center. IRRC, the range of adjustment on the MM rod ends is 3" although as you adjust them inward you'll have to cut off some of the threaded ends. These arms have the largest range of adjustment that I've seen, although I haven't worked with AZC's latest design.
  3. johnc
    You don't need brakes designed to stop a 3,200 Viper running the 24 hour of Daytona on a street driven 2,500 lb. Datsun. Balance is more important then mass in good braking and with those 6 piston caliper and 13" front rotors your brakes will be so front biased a well maintained stock braking system will work a lot better.
  4. johnc
    If you do the 6 into 1, cut off the three bolt flange and the choke that goes from 3" to 2.5". Do a slip connector/cone to get a smoother transition from 3" to 2.5".
  5. johnc
    Although you're not there yet, beware of "Tubing Fever." That's where you start running tubes all over the car, reinforcing this or that, based on your own internal monolog. Generally you end up with a car that's as stiff as hell but has an extra 250 lbs. of tubing run everywhere.
  6. johnc
    You should measure and see if the driver's side strut tower has moved. If not, then repairing the car will require a complete radiator core support, front fender, and (hopefully not) a lower front frame rail. You'll also want to check the LCA and crossmember to see if they are bent. If the strut tower has moved, junk the car unless you have a strong emotional attachment to it.
  7. johnc
    You can shorten the LCA length using the Modern Motorsports arms. But Jon is right, there are hard limits on what you can do based on you halfshaft/CV shaft lengths. I suggest that, for drag racing, you raising the ride height and decamber as much as you can using the camber plates. You have adjustable coil overs in back, use them.
  8. johnc
    STB is Strut Tower Bar. Seam welding and full roll cage that ties into both front and rear strut towers is best.
  9. johnc
    There is (or was). The triangulated STB, TC rod, frame rail, and rocker front and rear clips on my Rusty Old Datsun race car was designed via FEA that was done by Bill Savage of T-Mag (currently SPD Products): http://www.spdproducts.com/nisson_gto.htm
  10. johnc
    Bilge blower fan. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Inline-Duct-Marine-Bilge-Blowers&form_prod_id=73&action=product
  11. johnc
    There should be no changes in width between the frame rails from the firewall to the core support. The inside width is typically 25 3/16" on a 240Z. I do not know if this is true for a 280Z but I suspect it is.
  12. johnc
    That be illegal.
  13. johnc
    Drop the spring rate, raise the car up, put some urethane bump stops on the shock shafts, drop your tire pressure to around 29 psi. Ride harshness comes from these things: 1. Tire sidewall height. 2. Tire air pressure. 3. Shock compression damping. 4. TC rod bushing compliance.
  14. johnc
    From the GCR:
  15. johnc
    Here's a list I just sent a prospective customer of the mods I did to my old road race car and one of my street cars: 1. Welded in subframe connectors. 2. Welded in roll bar. 3. Welded in rear strut tower bar. 4. Custom triangulated front strut tower bars. 5. Front anti-roll bar reinforcement. 6. TC rod mount reinforcement. That worked well for 325 hp, 275 width Hoosiers, and over 1.2G sustained lateral.
  16. johnc
    Springs appear to be the same. The shock on the right has been in the car longer then the shock on the left. Not sure if either one is OEM.
  17. johnc
    A little too many Gin and Tonics Tony?
  18. johnc
    Replace the floor pans. What the PO did with the seat mounts is normal for these old cars. It isn't the best idea but it didn't compromise the strength of the pans. The amount of rust is your big issue. Since you have all winter, you've now got a new winter project.
  19. johnc
    Not true, but a racing fuel cell (not an aluminum, steel, or poly tank) should never be stored for any length of time with fuel inside.
  20. johnc
    Fuel cell foam replacement is generally required after 5 years. You also must not run Ethanol in any racing fuel cell unless that cell is specifically designed for alcohol based fuels. Most of this information is available on ATL or Fuel Safe's web sites.
  21. johnc
    Most likely the oil pressure sender.
  22. johnc

    2002mx5se-4.jpg

    johnc posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    2002mx5se-4.jpg

    From the album: For Sale

    2002 Miata SE Wheel
  23. johnc

    2002mx5se-4.jpg

    johnc posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    2002mx5se-4.jpg

    From the album: For Sale

  24. johnc

    2002mx5se-3.jpg

    johnc posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    2002mx5se-3.jpg

    From the album: For Sale

    2002 Miata SE Wheel
  25. johnc

    2002mx5se-2.jpg

    johnc posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    2002mx5se-2.jpg

    From the album: For Sale

    2002 Miata SE Wheel
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