DavyZ

Liam Garrett Smith born on July 23, 2003 8lbs 2oz (of boost) and 19.5" long This is my second son and 4th child. No, I'm not old, just busy! Davy

Don, I wish I could go, but I'll have a baby (actually wife might) right before then, so no worky for me this time. Good luck at the strip!!!! If you break something, call me, I might have it. Davy

The early 260Z like I owned was nearly identical to the 240Z in every respect and came with slim bumpers like a 240Z except the engine size was bigger--it even had a pathetic 4 speed! The late-in-the-year 260Z was like a 280Z and had the big bumpers and the increase in weight of course, but not the fuel injection or the larger 2.8L engine of the 280Z. If the 260Z is smog legal for an engine swap in your area, and you have a good one available to you, by all means--pick it up and do the power thing!!!!!!! Davy

Hahaha, lol Truly, so would I. Man, life has it's busy times, and this past decade has been that for me, especially with almost 4 kids now... J260Z: Thanks for the good info and the link--gotta check into prices for that kind of thing. It has to be cost effective for me. Chase: I love the Eastwood products, but I may need something a little more aggressive--this is not exactly flash rust, but it is not exactly pitted either. Makes me think. Plus, I have no idea what the black crap is--hard as heck to get off completely. Again, the pan is only plated on the exterior and I plan to keep it that way. Any chamicals won't go on the outside if I can help it. I need to get this thing planted in the car....also, installation of my 'new' Edelbrock heads I will be working on the swap this summer, and all my local HybridZ buddies want to help which I think is cool. Davy

Cool! That is basically the specs on the motor I'm installing into my 240Z with the exception of a slightly milder cam (not as much lift) and a 650DP instead of a 750DP. My compression is a little above yours too, but that should not make much of a horsepower increase difference. If you are making 300 hp at the wheels, Mike, I'd say you are doing pretty good. Davy

I'm certain he has been out of town--it's never like him to not return email, period. Davy

Be very careful if you street race...and yes, I do also use the "if-it-is-for-the-onramp-it-must-be-ok" clause too Davy BTW, "Calaveras" is spelled correctly; it is Spanish for "Skulls." Davy

You don't post enough on this board! Seriously, it's good to see you back at it again and getting serious. Only thing is, even though I have been a member here for a long time, I cannot remember the specs on your motor! lol 383? LT1? Blasted memory... Scottie told me you knew a bit about LT1 engines. I may have to pick your brain in a PM or email sometime soon--hope you don't mind. Davy

You think that 11:1 compression will work well on the street? Premium gas for sure, but 11:1?? I hope he has GOOD quench to keep from detonating. Grumpy, do you think that 10:1 might be a bit better for a street car? I would think 11:1 compression would be better suited to a more track car. Davy

I have been using Turtle Wax glass cleaner with great results, but I would rather go to Costco and buy cheap!!!! Thanks for posting that, Tim. Davy

Thanks for the replies, guys. I really don't want to boil this thing--it is new and looks purdy, but this crap inside makes me think twice. Both the Ospho and the muratic acid have acidic properties, and both will work I believe---the inside of the pan has no plating to speak of...which means that as soon as I use acid to get this crap out, it will flash rust all over inside. I suppose I could spray it with WD-40 immediately afterwards to keep it to a minimum. Again, thanks for all the info and the ideas!!!!!!!!!! Davy

OK, this is sticky situation that I have here: I have a 6-quart oil pan with baffles and swinging doors with a kickout on the left side--made for drag racing and circle track I believe. The sticky is this: there is welding slag and/or rust in the sump area NOT easily accessible, behind the swinging doors. I have done my best by scrubbing the areas using a tooth-brush, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, Berryman's Carb cleaner, etc. I did manage to remove some slag, some rust, and whatever else was down there, but there is still more left, and I cut my fingers up pretty darn good in the process---mmmm, liquid wrench under cuts....feels good...NOT! From what I can tell, there is still stuff left in there!!! I was thinking about using POR-15 or somethinglike that to seal whatever else is left--just on the bottom of the pan, mind you, not on the hinges or oil plug threads!! Is this a bad idea for the inside of the oil pan? Will the stuff come loose in this environment? Will my motor be toast? Would you chance it? This is a cool zinc-plated pan and I would like to run it, but if I cannot deal with this properly, I'll have to stock with the stock unit I have. Davy

The great thing about seatbelts is they don't mar anything or break anything (fuel lines, fittings, etc) like the chains can do, but they are not meant to have oil or solvents on them for long, otherwise their strength can be compromised over time. If you ever use seatbelts, use loooong ones. Davy

My dad had a 1600 and it was fast! Not drag strip fast but pretty darn quick. He picked it up in Germany and kept it for years. It was neat car--loved the silver paint, the black and burgundy plether interior...ever notice how old BMWs smell the same inside? I was wishing for a 2002 in high school, but my bro and I settled on a trick 510 and the rest is history... Davy

What if he took a diff and flipped it upside down so that it could spin the other way? Just an idea. It might seep oil from the vent, but maybe that could be taken care of, possibly. Where there is a will (and $$$) there is a way! Davy

No way. I think you mean 1" sway bars?? I hope so. Usually anything larger then 1" is serious race only equipment and your frame rails have to be prepped so the bolts don't rip out of the rails when you hit a bump... The car sounds like a steal--the Illuminas themselves run well over $400. I'd say you got a great deal! Wanna sell it for $600? The car will be smog-check exempt in two years (2005). V8 time... Davy

The tranny should live with the hp. Mike D (73 BOTIZ) has been beating on his NWC T5 with his hipo 355 and had complete success--I'm very impressed with that tranny. $250 is a steal IMO. If you are handy or have the means (friends) to do so, I would say that you should fab the JTR parts yourself to save moolah. The JTR kit/method is the one preferred by most members, but there are other ways to go. I bought the JTR kit years ago, but occassionally some surface in firesales and ebay and they can be picked up for cheap. I cannot remember if the 1975 disty is a HEI or not. A stock HEI is good for 5000 rpm if that. I suggest upgrading to an MSD system if you have the money or upgrading your HEI if you have it. Stay away from a points style disty--there is no need for them any longer IMO. Just my $.02. Davy

Davy

*bump* John Coffey, any ideas????? Davy

I think SW or Chris Alston's Chassis works has a Z (not ZX) kit for about $159(?) if I remember correctly. You could go get a rear bar made for a few hundred I would think. Davy

Yep, family does come first, Al. I know it is a bummer selling the car, but a father has to do what a father has to do. You have my respect and my prayers for your son, his full recovery, and your finances. Hang in there man--we're pulling for you!! Keep us informed. Davy

Bryan, welcome to the board! Keep our enemies on the run! The 283 should be fine for a genuine WC T5. My friend Mike D (73BOTIZ) has been beating on his T5 with a 355 putting out way over 375 hp for a while now, and he has not fragged it. I made sure I bought a WC T5 when the opporunity arose. JTR is a good company and they made decent products. However, if any of your buddies are machinists, make the stuff yourself and save a bundle of money--as you know the JTR book has the diagrams for the parts needed. I didn't know ANY machinists at the time, so I bought the whole shebang from them and am happy with the purchase (years ago). The R180 may actually hold up for a while and it has some nice high gearing, so you may want to keep it in while the R200 sits ready to go--just a thought. Use the search function and read a lot of old posts--you'll get most of the answers that way. Davy

There are groups of these people and they have books out, etc. Nothing new, and EVERY SINGLE legitimately investigated case came up a fraud, period. I think it was Newsweek or Time that did a story about 8 to 12 months ago. I laughed and laughed at all the quackery that goes on in the world with people actually believing this stuff. He's got a stash of food under the house or something that keeps him going, not just tea and sunlight. If they want to conduct a scientific test, put him in a laboratory with 24 survellance, and make sure he gets no visitors. Also, check each one of his stools (eewww) and find out what is in there. I never put any faith in articles like this, especially when there is more then ample evidence to the contrary. Crop circles are coming up again (locally this time) and people are actually believing in that too, even when there were major stories about debunking such things last year--how soon they forget. Davy

That would confirm the combo that Mike D (73BOTIZ) is running on his car: he has a 355 w/11:1 compression, P&P Corvette heads, Team-G single plane, aggressive cam, etc. I figured that the car would bog or something at low rpm or at launch, but his car idles like a kitten purrs (angry kitten anyway) and winds flawlessly like there is no tomorrow. No lack of power down low, so torque is good, and is wicked up to 7000 rpm. I really thought I would find a flaw, but I didn't. I like that Team G manifold a lot. Hard to believe the Edelbrock intakes are actually better, but a lot of guys say that. Davy