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Everything posted by DavyZ
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The 1st generation body style (240Z, 260Z, 280Z) is referred to as the "S30." The other body styles all have "Z" designations, like "Z31," "Z32," etc. Davy
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Guys this is an answer I gave someone that emailed me regarding the angle you have to deal with while installing a WC T5 using the JTR method. He was thinking about modifying the rubber, but that is unnecessary and should be avoided. The stupid thing is that I saw this in one of my many JTR books, but I cannot locate it and I have no time this morning. Anyone else that wants to add to this, by all means please do. The only question JTR did not answer was the exact angle to bend the 'ears' of the mount--I did it 7 years ago and the answer is 'slightly.' Here is my reply: No, don't touch the rubber mount. I could not find the section in the JTR manual (most recent), but I have seen it in older issues---the mount 'ears' (attachment points that the bolts go through) need to be bent. That's right, bent. The side goes up and the other side goes down just a little for both. This gives you an almost perfect angle for the crossmember. Any differences can be made up with washers!!!!!!!!!!! The whole idea of doing this is not whacked as it first appears, and the JTR book says there are no ill effects from doing this modification. I cannot give the exact amount of bending required for the 'ears' but you have to try to figure out the angle needed under the car and then put it in a big vice and bend away. Key is to bend both sides (one side one way, one the other) Again, use washers to make up the difference. I just flipped through a few of my JTR books, but I cannot find the correct description anywhere--I'm out of time and need to leave. I bent my mount 7-10 years ago when I purchsed it, so I was not smoking crack and just made all this stuff up. Purchasing a Corvette bellhousing is too expensive and is unnecessary. Just modify the metal ears/tabs of the mount, not the rubber. Davy
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Many thanks for the email, Katman! Davy
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Please do so; any insight gained in this venture can only help those of us unfortunate enough to have a Z with the pathetic moonroof. If you can provide a pic or two of the progress/process, that would help too Davy
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Personalized plates? "It's not just a California thing anymore..." Yep, just about every other plate out here has some meaning or word on it. The ones I like trying to figure out are the Chinese number sequences. For example, Len168 on this board has those numbers for a reason: "1" stands for 'forever,' "6" stands for money or wealth, and "8" stands for prosperity. Therefore, you read it as "wealth & prosperity forever." Kind of cool. BTW "4" sounds like 'death' in Chinese which is why the Alpha Romeo 164 did not sell well. I believe you can read the number like "money death forever." Davy
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Plan out what you CAN do with the car and what makes sense. Keeping it rough on the outside is not a bad idea, but just remember that to get it to showroom quality (if that is what you are after) is going to take some major coin. $500 is what I would give him---you can always say, "I'm not really in need of this car, but if you don't have a buyer and really need to sell, I'll take it off your hands for $500 or close to there." And then just hand him your name & number. If he wants to dicker, then run through ALL of the things wrong with the car and leave it at that. Davy
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Welcome back! (at least for a while ) The combo should yield approximately 383 cubic inches. You would need a bored 400 block AND a 400 crank to get 406 cubic inches. The 383 is a great engine though, and it will have some amazing torque. What length connecting rods will you be using? Davy
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Kevin, Just FYI, that rule does not apply in California regarding the sale of cars believe it or not! When you sign the contract in Cali, if you drive off the lot, the car is yours forever. Davy
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Thanks for the article url--very informative and helpful. I do think that is the way to go over the longterm. Davy
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Ah! Nice to know someone on the board is going with the Weir setup. Now, how much $$$$ is that puppy??? Davy
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Any idea just how much that thing weighs? I like it! Davy
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HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA! I thought that making it the base to weld a metal flower pot to might be kind of cool. Hmmm, maybe not. Davy
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GREAT TO HEAR!! Definitely keep us informed with a formal announcement when you are completely up and running again. Davy
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Steve, I totally feel your pain. After having discussed this very topic with numerous body shop people on this forum and elsewhere, you are correct in assuming that a whole new roof sould be welded on--it is probably LESS hassle then to try and tack a thin, nonsupported piece of sheetmetal in place to fill the stupid holes left by mangling idiots on our old cars (no bitterness here). I have this very same issue with my car, but I have not been able to get a price quote yet from Donna about it. The Z pillars have attachments someplace near the centers of the pillars (rear ones anyway) and there is a small amount of lead filler over the welded areas. Donna suggested that they cut the roof at this same place and weld in a new one. The junkyard would be my FIRST choice as a place to get another roof. I would, in all prudence, cut the junkyard roof off at the base, not the middle, and then figure out where actually to cut it later to make it fit. Just my $.02. Davy
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Sunny, I think only Centerforce sells the PRICEY flywheel/clutch combo that works with the T56. I would price both of them out and see what the difference is. I like the idea of Weir's (sp?) bellhousing since it allows you to use stock replacement parts at a fraction of the cost of the Centerforce combo--over time, it (Weir) will be much cheaper to own and maintain. If you find out the $$$, post a reply. Thanks, Davy
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*bump again*
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The dealer gets $1500 - $3000 (or more) if they switch a customer from the special offer financing rate to regular financing. They lied to your sister if they did not outright tell her, "You don't have a credit score that qualifies." Since your dad was able to get the Lancer at the special rate, it must be concluded that they lied, period. This is nothing new to car dealerships. Mitsu is a better company then that (most car companies are), but dealerships in general are not and they deserve the reputation they have aquired. Dealerships assume that the customer is an idiot, and the little mind games they enjoy engaging in are for the sole purpose of increasing gross profit, but it ruins the image of the car manufacterer. This is one reason the manufacturers have gone to bonuses and allocations based on customer surveys. Those seemingly 'stupid' customer care surveys that the salesman hits you up for can mean big money at the end of the quarter for the dealership. Many times the salesperson has commission based on that survey as well. It means much much more then just a single 'vote'. They actually account for each one, read each one, and take the dealer to task for any negative answers. FWIW, I was in the car business for six years, but happily left it about two years ago. Davy
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So you fragged the Q45 V8, eh? I was waiting for someone to do that to theirs. I imagine replacing it is too costly, which is why I just don't flog mine very hard at all. If the motor dies, I'll donate the car to charity before I replace it. Anyway, your Air Resources Board in your state can supply you with proper info. I know MA is very close to CA in terms of smog nazi, er, I mean regulations. The new motor being the same year as the car or newer (you have that covered) and the emissions equipment intact. You may be able to run the Q45 exhaust system (cheapest way to go) but I would think it may be restrictive. You might be able to get away with having a new exhaust system made for your car and use bigger cats for better flow. I would think the same rules for cat-back exhausts apply in that you can do just about anything after the catalytic converter. Just make sure that the specs for the fuel system can handle the new motor you are installing. Just a thought. Davy
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Sick, Baby, SICK! I love it. Davy
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Blow through carb? Ugh, the turbo V8 is what I'm aiming at, but I think EFI is a better route to go overall. Now if all of the parts can just assemble themselves when I throw them into the car... Davy
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Most reliable beater was either my wife's Datsun 310 or my '82 Volvo 240DL. Both cars are long gone and I'm a happy man. The 310 was totalled in a nasty rear ender and the Volvo was sold since I didn't need 5 cars Currently, my 'beater' is my company car: '99 Furd Escort. Davy
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Why ain't that just the stoopidest thing you ever saw?!? Davy
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Being rather melancholy myself, I nearly shed a tear through that story--well written!! But that is car crafting isn't it? That is being part of a select few (relatively speaking) that want their car to be unique, not going with the flow or with the 'stock or nothing at all' crowd. I swear this craft is a lonely one at times, especially since we deal in old school Japanese cars with American engines, etc. and no one seems to understand that or accept it: the muscle car guys usually don't like imports, the new school car guys don't even know what these old cars are, and the majority of people don't understand cars as a passion. However, we at this site, of course, are a different breed altogther. I think it is very cool that you found some people in passing that readily acknowledged your persistent work. Davy
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Since the makers of the Subtle Z are no longer in business (VR Engineering) making fiberglass bodies, you'll have to wait until you find a kit for sale on ebay, classifieds, or Z car websites. Davy
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Ah, careful! Remember that 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder!' Some people think out Z's look stupid, but we surely don't think so. Same thing is true for side pipes. They are not what I have envisioned for my Z car, but I'll leave someone else's dream alone. FWIW, I have seen one side pipe job locally on an orange Z car---very trick looking! It had the curly chrome headers coming out from under the front quarters right behind the front wheels to a relatively short all chrome (no shield) side pipe. Baaaaaad. Davy