DavyZ

Perhaps he means a tie rod? Like proZak said, if it really is a front anti-sway bar, the car can be driven safely without it (but don't overdo a corner mind you) and you should have no problem just cruising down the freeway. Is there anyway he can send you a picture via email of what he is talking about? Just food for thought. Oh yeah, welcome to the forum!!! Davy

Miles, it's good to know that someone has actually used the MSA kit and is happy with it. The engine mount sounds a bit like a Scarab mount, but 1.5 inches from the firewall is pretty close (I think my JTR kit will make it about 1/2 inch from the firewall, but I still have to get there first). That said, I like the idea of the trans mount being very adjustable (and probably lighter too) while mounting inside the tunnel. I'm not sure what this does for strength with some guys running gobs of horsepower, but it sounds like for the average V8 it would do fine AND be a little more sanitary in the install. If you are able to post pics sometime, please do so. Also, if you forward some pictures to me, I can get them hosted by a friend nearby so eveyone can see them. Thanks. Davy

One reason I did not go with the Supertrapp's is that a magazine article (muffler comparo) showed that they make more noise with respect to the same level of hp as other mufflers. That was the one thing that caught my attention. I don't like too much noise, so I figured I would use a Dynomax Superturbo or something like that instead: quieter, good sound, great power levels. That said, the Supertrapps offer the advantage that Terry described: go to the track and just take off the plates/baffles = instant race muffler! The flexability in tuning cannot be overlooked, but I am a 'set it and forget it' kind of guy (hydraulic lifters, baby!) so they are not for me. Still, a siamesed set of Supertrapps coming from the rear of a Z looks pretty good. Dale (BayAreaZ) has some, but I don't have picks to share, sorry. Davy

JT, That car continues to make many orange with envy! Very sweet car! Davy

Wow, those are great! Especially if they are relatively inexpensive. Please find out about them and post the information. Thanks! Davy

Actually the price is not that high considering it comes with the bulbs as well. True, you might be able to find it for less--plus you could email the company/seller and ask them what they sell them for offline. I have done this and saved money with several purchases. Just food for thought. I like the idea of this, but I would make sure of using a quality relay to get the power to the lights. many older cars from the 1960's & 1970's have poor lighting because they don't have great electrical, especially when it comes to headlights. Relays seem to be the key to getting enough power to the lights. I think Pete Paraska has some pertinent info regarding relays in his site. Check it out. Davy

The swap may be much more difficult in a Midget than a regular MG or MGB. How to Give Your MGB V8 Power in the SpeedPro Series is a great book that is extremely well documented and I bought it with the intention of doing the MG swap. However, after pricing the swap and looking at its potential, I decided on the Z. Look up the book and read it first--you'll be glad you did. Oh that the JTR manual were as well documented!! Davy

Don't worry, Owen, the $85 price tag for those headlights will keep a lot of guys from ever putting them on their cars Davy

quote: Originally posted by GAZRNR: ...Has anyone used the Motorsport Auto V8 mounts and driveshaft? How do these parts compare with the JTR parts and installation process? Is the motor located in the same setback and which kit "provides for the easiest installation and best performance?" I like that marketing line from the Motorsport catalog--it sounds so convincing, except it begs the question: "Compared to what?" JTR is about as far back as you can put a motor without having it hit the firewall. MSA's kit is quality for sure, but unless they have changed the design from the way it was in the past, the answer is 'no' it is not as optimumly placed as the JTR kit. The beauty of the JTR manual is that they give you diagrams of all the parts you need so you can make them on your own if you wish, have them fabricated by a machine shop, or buy them from JTR. Plus, the manual is terrific for outlining the steps of a complete conversion. Pure gold IMO for the $$ spent. Their book is available from many places besides JTR--numerous shops/stores around the country keep JTR manuals in stock. I should say welcome to the forum before anything else, but I felt that needed to get answered first. A number of guys run T56 trannys and a number run ZZ4 motors as well. Hopefully a few chime in. Good luck with your conversion. Davy

Motorcycle lights are really cool looking and more than one custom car has had them installed! Might be worth looking into. Davy

Congrats, Charlie! For me, it's three kids and thirteen years later and the project is still in a bog. I hope this does not happen to you!! Davy

quote: Originally posted by Russ240z: The answer to this is probably obvious but where do I find access to the book, "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car," on the internet? Russ, it is still a fairly common book. Classic Motorbooks (Motorbooks International), Amazon.com, BN.com, etc. all would carry the title. Davy

Bad Boy, Bad Bad Boy! Be careful, Mike! Davy

The ignition module on my 260Z went out and it would not do anything at all until I replaced it. If that is the culprit, do not, under any circumstances, buy a new one. They are big bucks and not worth it. Your best bet is to replace it using a used unit from a junk yard 260Z or one you can purchase mail order from Z Barn or Z Parts.com. The coil is cheap to replace if it is the culprit. Davy

quote: Originally posted by johnc: ... Don't know what the concern is about that method of disposal... It's great fun to put it into containers like soda bottles partially filled with water where it will explode (oh, did I say that?) I guess flushing it down a toilet can be a bad thing if it ends up in a septic tank or something--wouldn't want to 'burp' that puppy, no way no how. Davy

Grumpy has been doing this longer than I have been alive (well, maybe not) so please take his advice and use his recommendations. Thanks, Grumpy. Davy

Mojo, for not putting this question in the drivetrain section like it should be, take this and this Ok, now that the spanking is over, I think you may need a 1 inch master. Try doing a search in the drivetrain section on related subjects, and I think you'll find your answer. Cheers, Davy

Sounds pretty cool, hope the tranny works out. Davy

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/BorgWarner.htm I found some good info on ZHome. However, it does not mention use of driveshaft from either the donor car or the recipient car. Curious. So maybe it's not an issue?? I hope this helps. Davy

After it had been ground again, it might be worth it. Personally, I would not pay more than $100. Why? Glad you asked! I would rather get a Scat crank made of cast steel (9000 material) for pennies more than $200. Shoot, it's new and knife edged, so why bother spending hard money on a used crank that still needs work? This is totally my opinion, and yes I do know that the crank in question is a steel forged crank, but that is not enough to deter me from paying less or buying a new Scat crank. Davy

Good points, Lone. If I were doing a ZX, I'd go MSA and call it good. Davy

Sounds like a great plan; I hope it works! Good thing is that if this works out, you'll be able to offer that piece to all other rodders who could do exactly the same thing with their cars too! What this means is: you'll be able to make a buck or two for yourself. Davy

Great information guys! Thanks!!! Davy

Warren, perhaps no one will admit to buying the John's Cars kit? My advice is to look at the MSA 'kit' if you are planning such as swap. Also you can use a JTR manual to guide you through a swap, even if it is not a Z, but it is mostly the framework of the information/steps that helps. Just food for thought. Davy

Intake and exhaust. Are the crank and rods stock too? What kind of disty do you have? Judging by the fact that you have stock flat top pistons and large cc heads, your compression ratio must be very low, like in the 8's to 1 kind...If you go with higher compression pistons, then mods to the intake and exhaust will make a difference. Just for kicks, what made you get the smaller valved heads? Davy