rudypoochris

Check this one out, I think it has less of a learning curve. I cannot attest to the accuracy, but it seems to work pretty well. Requires macros on. QuarterMileCalculator.rar

Is that the same spreadsheet at the "Quarter2" calculator in this download forum here?

Thanks for commenting! Unfortunately I do not have an air compressor or die grinder. I am starting to think maybe this is best done by a pro. Being able to make a consistent finish with out spending days doing it by hand is key. Hmm.

Merely watch this thread. I will keep it updated and alert everyone when the RB-R's with staggered fit are available for order. Assuming we are talking about a 245/50/15 on a 15"x9" total weight is 37lbs. That is assuming a 25lb tire such as the Dunlop SP 8000 and the 12lb wheel. A 245/40/17 on an RB would be 24lb for a Dunlop SP 8080 E and with the 20lb wheel a total of 44lbs. So an increase of 7lbs per assembly. At the same time though, these are $750 wheels. 15" Wheels weighing 12lbs in 9" width are typically going to cost thousands easy. I wouldn't even know where to find a 15x9 that weighed 12lbs. Hope that helps! Out of curiosity, what wheels are these that weigh 12lbs?

I personally would run the car as is, dyno it. Then install it and re-dyno it. If I didn't do that I would never feel good about driving the car around. I would think though that it is just a big air restrictor and if it were ever to work it would have much less blade angle.

Ahh, got it.

Wasn't the engine offset 3/4" right, maybe that has to do with it. I am perplexed. JohnC is just waiting for all the fish to nibble on this one! Hmmm.

That is negative on the specifics. As with everything in my apartment (so it seems) it has stagnant and half way done and started. Closer to done though. Oh, also, the angle is adjustable on mine (talking left right here, not front back... when sitting in automobile).

Thanks for the tip!

I concur! But he definitively is not a HybridZer. Still needs to work on his capitalization. As well as smiley's, if you are like me. That and the bottle would probably of yelled "SEARCH" before he poured it in.

Hehe. Thank you for the insight. As to the machine surface, actually is is smooth! No ridges EXCEPT on the center. The centers are perfectly fine though, it is only the rims themselves that need the clear coat and polish. The reason I feel it may be better to do it myself is a combination of them wanting $130/wheel to do it and that I feel I could learn something and probably do it for $130 total.

I actually think I am going to disassemble them myself with Gollum and then polish them myself as well. As for who does the clear coat, I will probably take it to a shop since me rattle canning clear on may not come out the way I would like it. Worse comes to worse I can always sand them again and start over. Anyone see a potentially terrible idea here? I would rather not permanently or really temporarily ruin the wheels.

Seriously? What would be the motive behind this?

Just out of curiosity is it possible recover the money for any of the parts considering the car was illegally modified? Or is that basically money lost?

I don't think I am understanding the issue correctly. Your CCW's are almost touching the calipers, correct? You do not want more spacing between the wheel and hub face than there already is, right? Thus the resolution is a deeper offset hat (which I believe is the new kit, where as the old one had less of an offset) and accompanying mounting bracket. Correct? Or is the difference in offset between the old and new JSK hats actually come from a thicker aluminum hat. I don't think that would make much sense, but it is possible. I would think that JSK could just make you a hat with more offset and an accompanying bracket. Albeit at more cost. Ignoring the E-Brake caliper and such, the drawing below is a true representation of the JSK kit I have. The green highlighted face is the face to simply move farther in board and then obviously the hat would have to be offset more, but the thickness of the actual mounting surface would not need to be changed...

Just called and received an update from the representative. The wheels are enroute to the USA right now. They should be to your doors towards the later half of June. For the RB-R guys, the representative is checking in on the status of that whole process. Sorry this has taken so long, but that is where it is at as of now.

Ahhh. I see, I didn't know either worked.

I have those exact mirrors but mine do not have chrome on the mirror part. I am currently in the process of filling the wholes with fiberglass and deburring the mold lines. I think they are just relatively cheap Japanese aftermarket pieces.

Dynalites... My JSK setup uses Superlites? Just a typo? I think AZC uses Dynalite.

Hehhe. Thanks! I never got to fire my 8mm Stand Modell Mauser. It had Nazi insignias and all that good stuff on it too. In all honesty, I sold it because I couldn't repair the bore to the standard I wanted. That and I bought it for ~$240 and sold it for ~$560, was merely a good deal at the right time. I want a 6.5 Swedish M96 Mauser, but the ones I want are ~$700 with target diopter sights. That Argentine was $200 or $250 local and it had a peppered nasty bore. I spent ~11 hours with my friends running bore brushes and such through it and I can honestly say it looks perfect now. I couldn't believe it. Apparently sometimes they come clean, sometimes they don't. Black magic to me.

I would think the new hats wouldn't change the offset of the wheel... merely the rotor and thus the caliper would need a new bracket. I think.

My JSK rears stick out ~.5" or less, same with the fronts. Should clear Watanabes and most other wheels. How much caliper clearance do you have measured at ~5.5" radius?

Can't you just lathe/machine/cut off wheel a recess into the shaft just a bit farther up? That way you keep functionality. I might do this anyway if it makes sense.

I think this plus a candy color really just ends up looking like every other metallic paint, just a bit shinier, so I wouldn't go that route. What happens if you take matte/flat black and mix it with this stuff... Some heads might be exploding right now. I am going to ask Alsa.

Here is the one with fancy pictures: http://www.1000rims.com/rt_specs.jsp Or you can use mine for low tech low bandwidth basic stuff: http://www.autolounge.net/calculators/tirespacing.html Also, search around. If you spend the same amount of time reading about wheel offsets and such you probably would learn a lot more and learn it in about the same time it took you to ask plus my time, as well as jerrb, to write this.