rudypoochris

I don't have it with me, but the specific length of the spacers, A - B -C, are in the FSM. I would pit it in an end mill and have it reduced it to the exact length. No point in eyeballing it imho. As to where to find one... well you should probably first find that letter on the strut. The B spacer and strut combos are pretty common from what I have read. You might have to go yard to yard to find it. I can't exactly remember where it is myself, but you should be able to find it if you clean the strut. It is somewhere on the "barrel" that houses the stub.

I meant, who did you send the wheels to for repair work. I am looking to find someone to repair the clear on my 3-piece wheels. I will probably end up doing it myself with Gollum over summer though.

Awesome! Who did you send the wheels to and how much did it cost?

Where does one use the stuff? That is the main thing keeping me from trying it.

Maybe 41:13? I have a duetto of 3.36:1's. I am going to put a Nismo comp center into one. You might look at getting a new Nismo, Kaaz, etc. unit as they are MUCH beefier than the stock 87-89 stuff.

That is the idea! Right now the other constraints foreseeable are: 1. You need to run the Ron Tyler Diff. mount. 2. You cannot use the diff. flange on the right of the second photo below, since it takes up too much rotor space. I COULD make a mount for that one special, but the surface area of the pad to rotor would be lass than what I would consider acceptable. http://jaguarsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html I want to make sure it works first though and my car doesn't run, I will stick it on a ramp or something similar and see if I can load it up a bit. This will not in any way be a replacement for putting the car in gear when parking, or a brake one pulls while the car is in motion. It SHOULD be strong enough that it could take that kind of abuse, but I wouldn't even think about it. I will keep you all posted.

Thanks. I am going to get the offset dialed in just perfect now (it was deliberately off a bit - can always remove material, can't add!). Next weekend I should be test fitting on my 240z. I spent 20 hours total machining this piece and disk now. Crazy. The disc is .234lbs with out any cross drilling and such. I think I will leave it solid. The mount is .361lb, and the caliper is ~1.0lb. I am not sure how much I will reduce by deleting all that extra bracketry and cables, but I am hoping to break even.

There really isn't a list any more. The way it will work is that I shall post in this thread with all the ordering information when it comes time to order the RB-R's (the RB's are already up for order). Then everyone will simply follow the instructions and place their orders. I will let you all know, if you would like to receive and email as well, PM me your email address.

I pretty much finished this setup! I just need to test fit it and do a couple more minor offset changes.

Well, its not an "extras" kind of thing. Heh. You have to order them, I am sure they will keep producing them after the group buy, but I highly doubt the RB-R will stay at the price of $750 shipped for us (us is defined as anyone who orders an RB-R through this thread in a reasonable time [probably ~3-4 months] after the information is announced). Just a warning for future buyers who stumble on this one in two years. If you order them outside of the 'HybridZ Group Buy', I would suspect he would charge more. As for the tires. I wasn't planning on hosting a group buy for tires. So many people want different things. Also, tires ae pretty standard, a group buy on them probably wouldn't make much sense as it would most likely include a lot of logistics for little reduction in cost.

I talked to the representative about RB-R progress and he said he believes they are just finishing the molds now, but can't be sure because it is a holiday over there. He will get back to me on Monday. The RB's are supposed to be arriving at his warehouse this coming week.

Those look stunning with orange paint! Much better than I imagined. Wow. Did you get the lug nuts figured out?

Worked all day on this. ALMOST done. One more machining process tomorrow and then I have to make the disc.

Looks great! I think I might have to get on this... Whats the lag time on the fiberglass versions with no speakers? I should be coming back to the bay next week. Might be a good time to drop by and pick some up.

Has anyone broken the Z31 CV's? I didn't think the CV axles were a weak point honestly.

I am making a pinion mounted E-brake setup. The specifics are super top secret... not actually. We will see how it turns out. If it turns out favoribly it is something I could hypothetically make and sell for those interested. It is made of 7075-T651 and I ran a bunch of designs for about 2 weeks through strength analysis and such before settling on this one based on weight vs. strength. This took 7 hours today. I am going to continue on it pretty much all day tomorrow if it takes that long (there is a disk to machine also).

Is it the Arisaka type 99? Sounds cool!

I think the main issue is that as far as OEM brake replacements go... the Toyota units are MUCH more popular than the Volvo units. Even the Ford Cobra units are probably more popular. I have never heard of a Volvo upgrade in my 3 years of posting on HybridZ, but that definitely does not mean it doesn't exist and it does not mean it is a bad modification. Just my thoughts as to why you aren't getting much response at all.

I do not have the dash in car. I have it in closet. The craftsmanship appears to be very good.

Really? Just let me know! I will bring some tools. Muahahhahahaahahh. V8 Chainsaw!

I noticed ^. Next time call me. I love cutting stuff up! That is a clean 2+2 in the background also.

I didn't know you were from Oakland?

Thats the one! The mod motors are pretty robust from what I hear. Plus the 32 valve units are actually pretty easy to find since they came in many Mark VIII's.

Apparently they make pretty powerful engines. They can build you a Ford if you like also... I believe they specialize in the Datsun stuff though. I would advice choosing what you want before hand (obviously) simply because an L series and a Ford V8 are two completely different motors.

There are images a ways back in this forum from a guy who did a 4.6L 32 valve swap into a 240z. It appeared to clear about about an inch on each side of the engine, extremely tight. Might want to peruse a while back. If I remember correctly his member name was "PNY" something.