rudypoochris

Arizonazcar.com Modern-motorsports.com Zraceproducts.com All offer control arms, the second two are tubular steel. The first is billet 6061. I would just go for a junkyard R200 if I were you (provided your car already has an R200, if it has an R180 it will require additional componentry to swap), or put a wanted ad out. If you want to go LSD now is probably the time also. Alternatively you could find out what went wrong in the differential. It may be cheaper/better to start with fresh bearings and such.

Was it an automatic or a manual car? The automatics had the weaker R180, manuals have the stronger R200 if I remember correctly. I believe 80w-90 to be the specification if I remember correctly. Could the metal chunks be welds from the spider gears breaking off? 70 weighs doesn't seem THAT light.

What model, what differential, and what gear oil?

GUN SHOW! Give me... 10 minutes! EDIT: Here is the show part of the Gun Show. Unfortunately the pictures didn't come out that nice. It is a really elegant firearm. I need to rub some linseed oil into it too. It has been sitting for a while, needs love. It is a Argentine Modelo 1891 full length. All numbers match incl. cleaning rod. It has a perfect (at least to me) bore, 48.6in long, 8.8lbs, 7.65x53 cartridge. Used to shoot Hornady 150gr SP which is ~2800fps muzzle, now I reload so I don't know personally. It is pretty darn accurate. The first time ever shooting the rifle at the range about a year ago 100yd, obviously open sights, I grouped about an inch and a half. I thought that was good for a 110 year old rifle. Once I go again with my new glasses I think the results will be much improved. Only bad part is that the crest was ground off (like all Argentine 1891 full length Mausers imported to the USA). Oh well. I had a banner Mauser, but sold it. Maybe I'll find those photos later. I didn't find the gun elegant. Okay, now you all can have your bandwidth back.

I have a set of alloy wheels that are a little corroded and need a new clear coat. What should one expect to pay to polish and clear a set of 4 wheels? Anyone have recommendations as to where to take the wheels? I am located in Northern California. Thanks!

For $80 or so they boiled my tank and then acided it. I bought the Hirsch Gas Tank Sealer stuff and did that bit myself. I am not sure if gravel and water is a good idea since the tank has baffles (I do believe... my 72 240z tank had baffles) and the gravel will probably never come out.

Hmm hard to tell... Does he have engine receipts?

Well, how much money does he want... I would think that would be of consideration?

Sounds like the motor isn't in good tune. My stock 240z that I owned had very little low end (used to driving 4-5L EFI stock motors) and a powerful top end, I think that is how it is supposed to be.

Thank you for the insight! I kept hearing people suggesting 5.25" BS and such and I just couldn't seem to figure it out. I honestly don't care about sacrificing some lock, but I do care about it rubbing. I will look into the shaft collars.

Like, I said, moving it forward 1" will get you around .0312" more travel if I am not mistaken (on a 16" long shaft), which is insignificant. I am not sure how I would go about your issue. It may be a pain, but since your companion flanges appear to be billet, maybe you can have them milled down or ask Modern-Motorsports to replace them. Hmm.

Interesting, my car is a 72 that had a rearward placement. I thought worse comes to worse I could gain some space by moving the differential 1" forward... well... on say a 16" long shaft that only equates to .0312" more of travel. Insignificant. :/

I have heard of people using 5.25" back spacing on the front wheels of 240z's. This would be say zero offset on a 9.5" wide wheel. Out of curiosity, how does one achieve this with out rubbing the T/C rod or frame at full lock? Any insight would be great. Are there some type of steering limiters available?

Your not searching in the wrong place. There just really aren't that many 16" or 15" tires that hit those widths anymore. The trend has been larger wheel diameters. The 295mm tire is already too large for a 10" wide rim imho, let alone the sidewall issue. I think 275 or 285 is more appropriate. For the 8" rim 225 or 235, not 275. You should be able to find the 225 and 235 no problem, the rear is the tricky bit. Hoosier makes a 275/35/15, but beyond that its really quite tough. The CCW's are beautiful and great wheels from what I hear, but they are not cheap. If you are willing to cope with smaller widths, I am running a group buy for Rota's in 17". I honestly don't know how people manager to fit 5.25" back spacing on the front of a Z with out rubbing at full lock. Hmmm...

I don't know why one would want to have their LCA's flat statically anyway though... That is just going to mean any compression would cause chamber change to be unfavorable. Or maybe I don't understand it properly? There is 1/4" clearance at this angle, if you were to go to completely flat, the clearance would be more, if compressed further back to approximately this angle but pointing up, then the clearance would be a bit less than it is now. Should be sufficient in any of those instances. Maybe the issue is with the billet stub axles?

Hmm. Okay! Well I took some photos of mine. Just the drivers side. I measured .245" clear from mounting surface to mounting surface. The LCA's are not adjusted, merely bolted on. The chamber is zero by looks and possibly positive (indicating a minimal amount of track). The angle of the LCAs is shown in the first photo. The other shows the .245" clear with the axles held parallel to the ground. Thus when compressed, more clearance would become present. I don't think I will have an issue.

I would have to say something looks pretty wrong with the above photos. Very long shaft. I would at least look for some other 300zxT CV's from the junkyard or something similar before sending those to get cut. EDIT: It is impossible to tell though how far the shaft is into the accompanying CV on the diff side. Is that fully compressed on the diff side?

The best rev limiter really is your foot. There just really isn't any reason to wring a stock Z out that far. Even a full race/modified engine should be designed to have diminishing returns before its red line. That isn't to say rev limiters are useless in the least. It does mean that in MOST cases though, one could just lift off the gas...

10500 is a lot. I know Nascar runs 9,000 or so. I hear rumors of Windsor based engines hitting near 14,000 for Indy (probably with OHC heads) and Coates heads hitting about the same. I would think you would need DOHC to get those RPM's. Maybe take a Porsche 968 head and start splicing. I think the bore spacing is too big though. The Nissan V8 bore spacing is right... but then why not just use the Nissan V8... heh. 4 Cylinder heads on a small block is a better idea imho since a 4 cylinder performance car must flow more out of the box to be competitive.

As pointed out above...

Well all ignition is "electronic" at least in some sense. Yes, there is such a thing as a rev limiter. Multiple companies make them. Typically they use different chips to limit the max RPM by cutting spark if you exceed it. MSD would be one company that sells such devices.

Apparently LSD was optional on those vehicles though, so you should look for one if yours is not equipped.

Tirerack.com does many reviews on the brands it carries, which is not all common brands. I found it useful.

Looks great!

If you check out the UZ head design it becomes clear pretty quickly why it doesn't make too much power ever. Its built to be very compact, not for performance. The F in 1UZ-FE stands for narrow angled DOHC heads. The G in 2JZ-GE stands for performance wide angled DOHC heads. The F series heads just really aren't suited to breathing like their G counter parts.