rudypoochris

What carrier do you use? I have been using UPS standard ground typically shipping from Northern California to Southern California. I stopped using FedEx a while back do to some terrible service and mishaps, they never were cheaper for me either. USPS is usually pretty economical, but I have never tried shipping a differential through them, although I might try now. I shipped a 5"x8"x2" box this morning, weighed less than .3lb to SoCal using UPS standard ground. It was $16.12 to ship, $2 for signature request, and a $3.76 fuel surcharge. Total $21.88. Go figure.

Thats really quick. AWD with launch control must help a lot. A stock Z06 with drag radials will do the 1/4 in high 10's. Wonder if the GT-R will shed much time by switching to drag radials?

I agree 100% with the above. Next month I am going to start charging actual shipping costs because it is starting to get a little ridiculous. I can't ship an R200 anymore using UPS for $90 flat rate... that MAYBE will cover California... MAYBE.

Well you should of contacted him before hand otherwise he can charge whatever he likes for shipping. That being said, using UPS ground that sounds about right. Shipping is RIDICULOUSLY expensive now compared to just a year or two ago. Almost everything I sell on Ebay now I eat part of the shipping cost. Ask him to ship it Grey Hound Express if he doesn't mind. You will have to pick it up at a local terminal but it will probably be around $50.

Not sure if this is possible. I think the VLSD shafts require a longer input stub that physically won't click into a powerbrute or an open carrier. I could be wrong though. I think the issue definitely stems from different axles though...

Thanks guys! This info is also available on MSN Autos I just found out. The 1990 300zxTT was ~$33k suggested, by 1996 it was ~$43k!!!

No problem. I do not believe this is an issue as there IS about a 1/4" to 3/8" or so clearance IIRC at the T/C rod. There is a possibility of issue at full lock though. Alternatively there may be even more clearance afforded by after market T/C rods. I guess we will have to see. Sorry I can't provide more insight in this regard.

Wait... The issue is that your 300zxT axles are TOO SHORT?

I did fit them on my 1972 240z and it cleared just fine front and rear. I had coil overs on, but I don't think the perch OD's changed between years, also if they did I don't think the change would be excessive enough to warrant an issue. Coil-overs will gain you more tire to spring perch clearance, but this typically is not the issue. I found the tire to T/C rod as being a bigger deal clearance wise. Just in case that is what you were worrying about. If one does not care about full lock rubbing then obviously T/C and frame clearance goes out the window as an issue and it is only perch clearance that matters.

Anyone have the original approximate MSRPs for the various Z cars? In particular I am interested in the price of say a 300zx TT with leather and such. I have heard they got close to $45,000 - is this true at all?

That depends. What offset are we talking about here and what model of Z car? Also are you using stock hubs and such? I only really know details about the S30 installations using 4-bolt stock hubs, so hopefully your question centers around that model! Also 275mm section is a bit excessive for an 8.5" wide wheel. I would recommend a 235mm or 245mm wide tire. The 275mm tire is appropriate in that specification for a 9.5"+ wheel. That is just from what I have noticed though.

I BELIEVE the issue stems from people sourcing axles that are reman. and not actually Z31T units.

Are these remanufactured axles or ones you pulled yourself from a parts car?

Bump on this. I think it is a sweet idea (obviously otherwise I wouldn't have posted it...). Since my post back in 2006 though, I have come to use wikipedia.org A LOT. Anyone know if we could merely use the wikipedia software as an extension on Hybridz? It would make a parts index SOOOO much easier compared to what was available (or more importantly what I knew of, back then). With the excellent moderation of this site I think it would be easy to make a very accurate and useful database. Thoughts? EDIT: Apparently the software is completely free... http://lifehacker.com/software/wikipedia/geek-to-live-set-up-your-personal-wikipedia-163707.php Maybe it can simply be integrated on something like parts.hybridz.org and then we can get to writing articles for parts and such...? Obviously some rules and what not are going to have to be thought out prior (for instance, is it parts only or also how to's, etc)

After reading the post Josh817 made (#21) in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133931&page=2&highlight=piston I think it might be easier than I thought to find someone who can make a flat plane crank. It seems like they carve the cranks out of steel billets. I tried to find "Hank the Crank" as mentioned in the article, but I haven't found a number yet. Does anyone know if it is common practice to make custom billet cranks? Well, more importantly how difficult is it for them to change the CNC program for a flat plane setup... hmmm. I wonder. Thoughts?

I would think the ultimate radiator for this crowd would also be able to mount a Taurus 2-Speed fan with out addition bracketry, that might be a huge plus - at least in my eyes.

Thanks, I agree with the above statement. That metal seems pretty beefy if it is what I think it is made of.

This is a strange question, but does the spring steel (I assume that is what it is) in the Nismo/Powerbrute's rust when exposed to the elements like normal steel... or is there some kind of resistance to corrosion built into the mix? Thanks!

$24,000??

Well, what LSD center are you running in that differential? If it is the CLSD you should be fine depending on how many clutches it has in it and what condition the unit is in. The next thing to worry about is probably the U-joint axles followed by the stub axles. That all depends on what condition the parts are in though.

Awesome. I am making a #3 basically using my 2 piece Gnose upper and a Paulo standard lower. Should be pretty basic.

The font doesn't look like it matches really. Weird.

Correct, but historically HAVE the bearings actually failed prematurely? As I stated before, I know of adapters failing, I do not know of low offset wheels causing bearing or stud failure. I find this hard to believe. It is of interest to me though because if it truly is an issue, well then, it is just that. EDIT: Let me rephrase this bit: I know of people who have used adapters and have had wheels come off.

Really? You think? No doubt the torque and load on the bearings and studs are increased, but I haven't heard of anyone reporting bearing failure or wheel stud breakage due to low offsets. Do you have any information supporting this as it is of a lot of interest to me. I find this hard to believe. A 9" -13 for example has the mounting face 13mm from the center line, right? A 9" +48 would have the mounting surface 48mm from center. There would be more torque on the lugs with the 48mm setup and less on the bearings if I am understanding this correctly. I still don't think it is an issue at all though for the bearings... On the other hand I HAVE heard of adapter failure and wheels coming off at freeway speeds to boot.

This may be true for the rear, but for the front, in my experience mind you, the limit is NOT the spring perch, it is the T/C rod and frame at full lock. I highly doubt the negative offsets are going to impose any kind of load that the wheel bearings or studs were not meant to cope with. I believe this is primarily to reduce scrub radius or to fit AWD/FWD setups requiring a certain amount of spacing for transverse engines. I do not believe this has anything to do with reliability or wheel wheel/bearing failiure and everything to do with handling and the aforementioned spacing. Well it is as you stated just that, another point of failure. The wheel needs to self center on the adapter which needs to self center on the hub. It just isn't very snug or sound in my opinion. I would MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH rather have a wheel that fit properly than have one that doesn't and requires adapters/spacers. Thats just my 2 cents. Out of curiosity... the studs on these adapters are OEM replacements (with knurling and such) right, and not some kind of threaded aluminum or anything of that sort... correct?