rudypoochris

Is it? I am contemplating using their CNC bending stuff.

After thinking a bit about all the different calipers there seem to be now adays can someone comment on the pluses and minuses of a couple? It seems that most companies offer a 3.5" spacing like the Wilwood. For instance I was perusing and stumbled across this: It is ~$200 and appears to have more steel bolts going through it than the Wilwood Billet Superlites. Obviously that alone does not make it a better design, was just wondering peoples personal thoughts an opinions on the various after market calipers. -Outlaw -US Brake -AP Racing -Wilwood All come to mind. I think so far I have come to the conclusion that the Wilwood Superlite is economical and has a lot of pad choices.

The long nose LSD really isn't THAT expensive. The bulk of the cost is in the R/T mount, axles, open diff, and then the carrier. You can get a Power Brute for ~$550 now I think, $400 for an OBX, $600 Cusco on Ebay now, $800 Kaaz, etc. Then you need R200 U-joint or CV axles. In either way I would THINK it would be cheaper to run than an R200/R230 short - for what you get anyway. VLSD vs. new CLSD. Hmmm.

Probably just the rear if needed. It has been advised though in the past by JohnC to increase the front track more than the rear for handling benefits - so maybe the front as well. If I were you I would just wait and see... worse comes to worse assuming you can go easy on it and not drive it far at all at low speed and no I am not recommending this... you could pop 4 appropriately sized washers to make it clear. I think we are talking about a minimal amount of rubbing if any. Or you could do it the right way and buy 4 thin spacers...

I just researched this and yesterday ordered the Hirsch stuff based on some reading, but nothing in depth.

Figuring these are what you ordered: You will fit just fine on the front provided you don't have a ton of tire sticking out. If you have coil-overs on the rear no problem... it will probably clear stock rear as well, but not 100% positive. If you wanted any spacer it would be in the 5-10mm range. Not 25mm. Sound good?

You want about 4.5" BS for a stock suspension (talking wheels only counting lips!!! this assumes your tires will stick a smidgen over the lips) no more really. At most I think you want around 5.5" FS, but this can be fudged a bit depending on tire specification. Talking about S30's here. The typical points of contact you must clear are (BS measurements here include tire - talking fronts): 1. T/C Rod - Max BS here was around 5" as well at full lock and ~ zero toe. 2. Spring Perch - Max BS stock ~4.75"-5.125" or so. 3. Lower Valance - This is taken care of by installing an air dam. Hope that helps? 1 tuff Z - Those 7.5" +20's will probably fit but you may have some T/C rod interference if you are running stock T/C's and go full lock...

I know we have a subscription service, but I was wondering if there was a way to "tag" a thread or a post as something meaningful to the user. It would be nice to have this information brought back when it is needed through the UserCP. It would be like bookmarking but it would not be lost every time I reformat my computer or browse at work, the library, etc. Is it possible? Is this a good idea?

Which Illumina are you going to use if your sectioning the strut? Were you able to weigh it? Looks like it rides high in the front. Sorry about your axle! Cool car.

Reaplce with 280zx nuts as mentioned above. To pull the axles I bought a $5 slide hammer on Ebay. I bolted a 1/4" thick steel plate to the end of the shaft and drilled holes for the companion flange and put bolts through it. Using the tool I easily removed the companion flange and stub axles. To undo the 27mm nut I put pipe between the studs and put a 4' pipe assist as a cheater ontop of my breaker. The slide hammer is now very useful as I use it to pull everything from bearings to differential stubs out. Original intent was to pull out the spindle pins with it... It didn't have enough mass.

Honestly I think this was a good thing. Gives me more confidence in the roof strength. Then again in a way it is sad.

Coilovers aren't going to afford you any more room at the T/C rod which is where the interference will probably occur if you go with a 17x8.5" +4.

Your going to want a 4.5" BS to clear stock suspension at full lock. The valance to wheel clearance I am not as positive on. Maybe I could grab you some distances for front spacing. I wrote a little calculator for wheel spacing which is nice and quick and should help you out: http://autolounge.net/calculators/tirespacing.html Alternatively this calculator is better than mine, but a bit more complex for the task at hand: http://www.rims-n-tires.com/info_specs.jsp When you crunch the numbers for an 8.5" +4 you get 4.9" of BS. That will probably rub at the T/C rods, maybe touch the perches, and maybe rub the tire against the rails at full lock. It may not though also. I just found 4.5" BS to be the highest reasonable BS to specify for a stock suspension. Worse comes to worse your looking at a 5-10mm spacer.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123531&page=2 Post #23. The RB is the top, RB-R is the second.

I agree ^. BUT that might just be availability in the Hayward warehouse. It is possible that there exists RB's and RB-R's in both sizes but I do not know.

The 17x9" -13 will stick out in front of the stock fender. What you want to do is order the 17x9" -19 for the rear, or possibly even the 17x9.5" -19 for the rear then have them mill the mounting surface down. You got material (I believe, wait for me to confirm for you on Sunday before you try and order or anything) on the RB to do that, probably not on the RB-R. You can mill it down and bring them inward in the rear quite easily if you have coil overs. For the front a 17x7.5" +4 is going to have you sitting at a 4.4" BS so it should fit fine. The front spacing is ~4.1" so it should be inside the fenders. Hope that helps. EDIT: Thinking about it, you probably can't just mill down the backs of the 17x9" unfortunately since the lug holes are conical and taper at the bottom. Who knows though. I don't think a spacer will be required with the 17x8.5" +4 rear any way. For the front, probably unless you run 17x7.5" +4 front.

You can check Rota's stocks online at: http://rotawheel.com/AVAILABILITY.htm Appears Kim has 17x8.5 +4 RB-R's in right now. I would advise a 5-10mm front spacer depending on your suspension and tire choice. With a tighter tire it might be able to go full lock no spacer. I also concur that these look way better. Not sure if you want to wait, but if you do the 17x9" -13 and 17x9.5" -19 RB's can be had (think it is about a month wait from ordering). If you wait even longer though then the staggered RB-R's will be out.

No one on this forum! Ha. I think a nifty idea might be to have a "cruising" battery pack and have those be high capacity but low discharge batteries. Then have a set of packs for "WOT" where they can discharge quick and give you some speed. Might have interesting results.

Don't worry it is already in the works. BUT you will all have to wait an additional two months and fin to tail clearance might be an issue if you are running stock sized bags.

Awesome, for that price I will definitely look.

I would just shroud all the positive terminals using that squareish shaped rubber cover that is on many car positive cable hookups. This is all I could find on a quick search of Google: http://www.solarseller.com/battery_terminal_cable_lug_covers_and_protectors.htm I would go ahead and actually insulate the bars on second thought as well... Someone must sell a spray on insulator. Reason being... if water were to spill onto the tops of the batteries, which shouldn't, but could happen. That would be an issue.

What sort of stuff is contained in said book?

Just looked at the wiring a bit closer. Some of those positive terminals are very close to the steel retaining bars... might want to insult them considering that if they touch you have about 700lbs of batteries to blow. Heh.

UC Davis. Don't worry first and second year courses are designed to be tough. At least out here.

The RB-R's should have .5" or so more lip in the rear than in the front. The wheels currently in production are 3" lip front and back.