rudypoochris

That is ridiculous... That LSD isn't even considered as desirable as the Z31 CLSD to most. Oh my... I think I will pull one next chance I get. EDIT: AND NO FINNED COVER. Or axles for that matter. Haha, the seller can now go sell the rare axles for $300 and the cover for $150. Haha.

Thanks guys, I will look into the exhaust piping thing a bit. I have messaged JSK to see if he is up for making some sleeves. I have a machine shop here at school, but I am trying to think how I am going to bore out the center to 46mm from the available tube sizes I see on McMaster.

I think I need the lips since the bushings touch each other w/o the lips... I could probably just machine the bushings down though.

Oops. I think I did something bad. I had the bushings pressed out by the local machine shop thinking I was slick. Well... I took a look at the replacement bushings... then the hole I had. Well appears that I had them remove the metal outside bit which apparently doesn't seem like it should be removed... View photos below. I have play in the up down and wiggle around (axis) directions. So should I just have a sleeve made to the specifications (also below) or does someone else have a better idea? Or even better yet, is there an available replacement? Thanks guys!

Just out of curiosity, why would you want to use those brakes over the Wilwood or Outlaws... even over the Toyotas?

I would think fast would depend on which S30 one is talking about. Just going off Zhome.com it looks like the early 240z did 0-60 in very high 7's or low 8's. Then it has the 73+ at 10+ seconds. Then when the L28 came back the times dropped back to low/mid 8's+.

Looks pretty no name to me. Just the quality of the package itself kind of stands out as a cheap no name brand thing.

I would use Cotronics thermal adhesive long before I used a sticky pad, but I could be wrong: http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/ea_thermallyconductive.htm

Mixed thoughts on this one. The idea is good, the execution not so much imho. Reason being that these are meant to be stuck on anything... oil filters, differentials, etc. I think it is much better to make a solid heat sink for the specific application which is not always that easy though... Not having full contact with the hot surface also probably hurts the design. In addition it looks like it probably causes a lot of drag - I would think straight fins would be better, but I don't know. Also pretty sure the iron part of the diff. casing wasn't the ideal place to mount the fins.

Just out of curiosity how would this kit be different than the Outlaw kit and the Wilwood kit? Would it use OE calipers and rotors?

For those of you interested in the Wide ZG flares... I talked with 280ZForce and came to the conclusion that his rear wheel and tire setup is a 17x10.5 -12 with a 315 tire on it. If we were to run the same wide ZG flare our setup would stick further inside the flare by .25-.5", which in my mind still would look nice. Check out the thread. Just food for thought. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132597

Doesn't that change the properties of the metal making it very brittle and prone to failiure? Called 'quenching' right? I had them removed by the local Napa machine shop. Had them pressed out $25 total. It gouged a 1" long 1/8" deep bit out of the strut side of things when it came out, but no biggie.

I will buy which ever of the two provide the best combination of price, finish, and availability. I am of the opinion that the original poster was indeed looking for options. I do not believe this thread has turned into any specific persons property. This is an open forum - not the venders forum. I would think that both of you could easily start your own threads in the vendors forum and go from there. I am of the opinion that neither of you should have anything to worry about unless you were planning to overcharge. There is plenty of room for multiple sellers, but ultimately the buyers will tend to gravitate towards the better, available, affordable product. To me it sounds like such a push to have a monopoly is an indication that a substandard product, or an over priced piece, is trying to be sold. Now I know this is not the case, so I think we can probably all get a long and try and make a good product.

That is awesome. The front and rear need a little work to make it truly bad ass, but the side looks great!

Ah, my bad! Yes, spindle pin. They are a pain in the butt.

The bolt is the stub axle. The nut is a 22mm stub axle nut. You remove it by using an impact wrench or place a pipe between the wheel studs and a ~2+ foot breaker on the nut. Replace the nut with one from a 280zx. Search HZ to find information on the P/N and then probably easiest is to order through courtesyparts.com. I think this is it: http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/lock-nut-rear-axle-1979-1983-280zx-non-turbo-p-569145.html?cPath=7002_7768& But you should double check...

Those cover bolts are supposed to have lock washers under them. Glad to find out, sorry about the bad experience! You kept the ring and pinions matched though... your original rear and the new rear - right? No mix/match of rings and pinions?

Sounds like good buys. I have had ~3 or 4 of those units before. For my own though I finally went the distance and just built a Powerbrute into an NA 3.7 12mm bolt R200. Realistically it isn't that hard and you get the all new bearings plus a brand new competition LSD center for about the same price or less than a used unit with the clutch per side setup and worn bearings that usually (from my experience) need to be replaced.

I'm seriously curious about what failed in the differential. I really can't think of anything like that that would stop the differential from rotating. Hmmm.

Those are sway bar end link bushings and tension control rod bushings. You can fund replacements in rubber or urethane through multiple suppliers. (Motorsport Auto, Black Dragon, etc.). They do not NEED to be replaced, but you should.

I disagree. I think if you plan out your brake swap to use a Wilwood caliper in front and a stock caliper in the rear it can be set up to have perfectly fine balance. You just need to think it out before hand. Order smaller pistons for the front instead for the monster 1.75" setup. I ended up ordering the 1.75" setup and was planning on running the 240sx rear. I ran some math and it didn't look great so I decided to go with the Wilwood rears as well. Fact of the matter though is that I do not regret this as I like Z goodies. That being said, not everyone is the same... so read the first paragraph if you don't want to end up like I did. After considering brake weight, rotor and pad cost as well as availability, and naturally the added anti-fade capacity - I would definitely have to say the extra money was well spent.

Check this out: http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqCuttingCoilSpringsCalculations.htm Might be able to cut AZC springs to that rate... but you might also need to put in some sort of spacer or something to correct for lost travel - I don't know.

I disagree about it being able to bend or break the laws of physics. I think this pretty much explains why it is as fast as it is...

^ I will second the complexity of the 240sx stuff. I never installed it, but I did get around to removing the pistons, disassembly, and the start of a rebuild. It got a bit complicated.

If it is the front bearing do you think you could send me the failed bearing bits (I would pay shipping naturally, it would be for research purposes) check this thread out for a replacement - provided it is indeed the front pilot bearing (next to the driveshaft flange) that failed: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130782&page=3&highlight=nla+pinion