rudypoochris

The mounting surface of the RB-R will be less thick than these RB's. So yes, there will be less of it in the RB-R. I agree that it is not ideal which is one of the main reasons the RB-R is going to be made and not just the RB.

I'm wondering why it would slip with a V-Belt since friction should be independent of surface area. Wonder if it is the compounds of the rubber, or the tension run? I think it might be due to lighter tension on the V-Belt - but I don't know.

I would think you could get a lot of efficiency by running a diesel engine at its peak efficiency into a generator turning its peak rpm which in turn would supply the propulsion. Pretty much eliminating batteries entirely except for quick bursts. I guess that is what you guys are trying to get at though. How much does a diesel generator weigh?

He better sell it before summer then... Doesn't the 350z use 31 or 30 spline shafts though? Wonder if they will re-spline it for 240sx open carriers.

They are if you get the LSD designed for the open carrier. This is a 29 spline count just like all the long nose R200's I know of (maybe not the SS). Search for the 240sx OBX LSD thread... there are people running these.

That is very similar to the phantom grip. People have had mostly negative reviews on the phantom grip. Might try searching "phantom grip". That unit does not provide any lock up due to input torque which makes it less than ideal in my opinion. The beauty of a true clutch LSD is that the initial resistance can be set relatively low, but the unit will lock up when you step on the gas or lift off the gas at higher speeds. In this case you can set that unit to low initial torque, but it won't lock up when you get on it, or you can set it for high initial torque and sacrifice the handling and street ability (to an extent any ways) of the car to get lock up.

4th and 5th editions are on cramster.com I think, not sure if that does you any good! Sorry!

Search this one. There are upgrades. Modern-motorsports.com is offering a 39 spline stub, stock 280z is 29 spline IIRC. It shears where the splines end and the smooth shaft begins usually. Their are many LSD carriers. The Power Brute is probably the most popular as of late. It is getting hard to find though apparently - I would search.

From what I have read and researched your going to want an LSD center for the R200 but otherwise, it should be able to handle quite some abuse. The stub axles will most likely give out before any type of differential failure occurs on an LSD R200. I also have the engineer disease which is one reason I have a ceramic bearing in my R200... hmmm...

I have removed these from Mustang Fox's. It is located behind the rear tail light panel (I think on the inside, but can't remember). They have a switch to reset them too. Probably a good idea to grab one... They have a ball or something inside that deactivates the fuel system when they experience a crash load.

So this spoiler was fitted to a 240z but doesn't fit the new buyers car? Why? Elaborate please.

The OBX lsd is all over Ebay for ~$375. Search 240sx LSD.

I believe the drum brakes automatically adjust every time I apply them while the car is reversing (I set them loose when I first installed them, then let the brakes tighten by reversing and stopping a couple of times). I think I will have the drums turned... if that does not solve the issue I guess it might just be time for stickier pads in front. :/

I'm planning on running 1.75" front and 1.38" rear on a 15/16" master, if I don't like it then 1-1/16" here I come.

As noted above - that is physically part of the wheel itself. Most likely that will be painted for final purchases, but those wheels were merely unfinished prototypes.

I would think the Wilwoods would require even more fluid considering they are typically 1.75" or 1.38" diameter pistons.

This is not Z related, but I can't seem to figure it out so thought I would post. I have a 1992 Ford Explorer. It had Ford OE replacement pads all around. I changed out the rear shoes (drums in rear) with Napa replacement pads a little while ago. Ever since then the rears have been locking before the fronts on panic stops. I would think this means that the Napa pads are too aggressive, but someone mentioned that it may be due to the fact that I did not get the drums resurfaced. Would resurfacing the drums matter (they are not pitted or anything like that)? The person mentioned that the old pads probably left a little glaze or something similar that is gripping. Would a quick hit with 100-200 grain sand paper be advisable? Thanks.

There is no metal disk behind the mounting holes... The mounting surface itself is less thick which is what will be featured in the RB-R. Sorry if I am not understand correctly, does that answer your question? The RB-R will have a flatter spoke which makes the center appear more recessed, so I guess one could think of it as more concave, yes. There should be a little more lip as well. You can wait for the RB-R's if you prefer them. You do not need to do anything at all, simply wait until I let everyone know the specifics.

There is no spacer. No need for spacers period. I did comment about purchasing spacers free of charge IF for whatever reason brakes aren't clearing RB-R's, which really shouldn't happen (the reason behind this was due to the fact that I changed the 1.25" brake clearance specification to .875"). In any case the only possible common break setup that I think could have an issue would be the Toyota setup, but I don't think a spacer would fix that, at the same time I do not think it is an issue either with the smaller mounting diameter of this wheel compared to others that have interfered in the past. A front air dam or trimming of the front lower valance is required though for full lock operation. The ETA for the RB-R to be available was ~3 months to our doors at the end of March. So it should be around 2 1/2 months off from now. I agree on the more concave look, we shall see how they come out.

Wouldn't that be a lot of unsprung mass, never mind the need for 4 transmissions? I like the idea of this car... but I think it would be much better suited to something like an MR2.

I want to try this one... but I haven't gotten around to interior yet... It costs $30 for 40 sqft and weighs .8oz per square foot. I would probably double up on thickness in most areas. Light weight would be the goal. I like the concept of this one over the type with bubbles in it because there are no bubbles to pop and it achieves pretty much the same goal http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automotive-Heat-Sound-Insulation-Auto-Car-Boat-RV-Quiet_W0QQitemZ330226741178QQihZ014QQcategoryZ46094QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Being so light weight, I highly doubt it will be able to dampen the low tones very well, but it might be worth a shot.

I believe so too. I remember reading about Z32 300zx braking performance and how it was not very good compared to its competitors which is why I don't understand why people "upgrade" to Z32 brakes. Thats just what I have noticed from reading about such things.

How do you charge it out of curiosity? Looks awesome!

diamondracingwheels.com

So if I am understanding this correctly Savage... you took 2" exhaust tubing, cut a slit up it vertically and let it get crushed by the mustache bar, then put the bushings in... Did it eliminate slop? What did you do to make the up/down direction tight - bend it with a hammer over the top? Thanks!