rudypoochris

I am studying ME at UC Davis... I am a second year. I am planning on doubling in Aero though since it is only 1-2 more classes.

I know about those, they aren't DOHC. Thanks though!

Well it wouldn't be plug and play. It would require modifications to the cam drive inevitably.

http://www.shop.retro-spec.net/

So I was reading up on the L31DETT thread which ultimately got me to dreaming, just dreaming, about DOHC heads that could be spliced to work similarly well on our old SBF's. I know the Porsche 944/968 DOHC motors use a 104mm bore which is close, but those are expensive heads to find/source. The Subaru 2.5L boxer also has ~4" bore, but that is a less than ideal setup, especially since they are not known to flow. So what do you guys think/know of that might be the right direction? It seems very hard to find large bore DOHC setups for some reason.

I think there should be a way to mark a thread as sold/finished. Just a little icon next to the thread or something.

Definitely interested.

Sweet! For the longest time I have been reading the sound deadener show down and looking for lightweight stuff... .5lbs/sqft really adds up. 0.8 oz sounds alot better, it probably doesn't perform as well at all, but with a sound absorbing foam thrown in... maybe!

Might want to check this out guys... http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Also I found this on Ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330209390082&rd=1 I am curious to know if it works. I really don't like the .3-.7 lb/sqft of what is out there right now.

Nice! Out of curiosity did you specify anything special about those center caps? In the past people were saying they didn't clear the hub centers... are you using spacers?

Just watching the Superbowl out of the corner of my ear... I hear about a 375HP Hyundai "Genesis" coming in Summer 2008. 375HP!?!?!? Wow. It is a 4.6L V8 with variable valve goodies too - 6 speed ZF Transmission (probably automatic only).

That looks great!

I MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH prefer the way it is now. Not only does it seem like there are alot more ads, but the contact function works and it allows you to see everything with just a couple clicks, rather than going through Wheels/Tires, then Drivetrain, then Engine, etc.

Wonder what he uses for front suspension...

I think 31-32mpg instead of 30mpg is hardly conclusive... I vary 2-3 mpg any way on any given tank.

$70 from pick-n-pull. Post #52 IIRC in the differential sticky has a list of all the ratios.

I would think a TKO600 would be a very sweet transmission to put behind that block. In all honesty though I don't think you will break a WC T-5 with a stock Jaguar V12... You MIGHT, but the later Ford 5.0L motors were putting out 300lbft. Likewise, later 5.0L Mustang WC T5's also were beefed up from ~265ftlb capacity to 300ftlb. As for the 700hp 5.0L that takes a 150 shot. Wow. So you had an 850hp Ford 5.0L? What year was the block? Did you run a girdle? Was it N/A? If so, where can I get those heads! Sounds like a magic motor.

I know what you mean. I just found it kind of cool. I found it really cool though when I saw consistency between the two Illumina graphs in relation to the settings. Setting 1 goes from progressive, 5 being digressive. I totally agree. If we got serious the entire set would have to be run through a shock dyno. Out of curiosity... anyone know what types of places might have an accurate shock dyno?

Hey guys! I found these shock dyno tests on honda-tech.com. Thus these are probably for Honda inserts, but might still be useful. Included are attachments of the shocks I thought were pertinent... full link here: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1104049 I was actually very impressed by the amount of adjustability in the Illuminas, albeit the curve is progressive at first, but ends up being digressive on the harder settings. There is still a bit of progressivity at the start in the first graph (for the fronts) no matter what. For the price (~$75/ea.) this makes me feel good about having chosen them as an entry level street/sport shock.

I go WOT and shift before 1,000rpm when I try and save gas on the Explorer. Seems to work pretty well actually, especially in heavy traffic (except I don't typically go WOT in traffic...). Cruise the boulevard at 1,000rpm at 35mph. Only requires a hair of throttle. I always end up opening it up any way though so I have never really found out how much I could get with only this method. My combined mileage has hit 22mpg though. Rated highway was 21mpg, I think 17mpg city? I can't remember. I also use 35psi in the tires instead of 32psi. Also EPA rates the vehicles in a certain way. Its not like they just went 65mph constant on the highway for highway MPG. Their is acceleration, decelleration, and a max speed of something like 60mph, average of 48mph.

That rear flare is beautiful, count me in! I'm of the opinion that the rear flares were always too small compared to the front (at least from pictures I have seen). I think this rear flare goes well with an appropriate size front (as shown in the pictures).

Alternatively I have gone the R200 route. I would do it again, but I haven't put much thought into it and I haven't run the car yet. From everything I have heard though the strength should not be an issue at all. Heres my break down: -300zx 3.7:1 Open Diff and Driveshaft: $100 -Modern-Motorsports CV Adapters: $225 -280z Stub Axles: $50 -300zxT CV's: $70 -PG Power Brute CLSD: $500 -Ron Tyler front Diff mount: ~$65 -Rebuild of R200 w/ installation of CLSD incl. parts: $350 Mine comes to $1,360. That being said I have a completely rebuilt differential with new bearings and new 2-Way CLSD unit. I also have a finned cover and the brace for it, paid ~$75 for the two. If you like to roll on a used CLSD then you can get them from the yard for $70 if you find them (I have found 2 in my ~4 years in the yard @ $70 each, bought another 1 for $495 and a 4.375:1 LSD for somewhere around $600) or ~$600 if you look a while/get lucky on Ebay. I visit the yard about 4-5 times a year just for perspective. In either case, my rebuilt LSD cost a total of $920. If you find one in the yard... your looking at only spending $510 for a CLSD setup. Granted it will be used and it is the non-competition unit, but hey, its cheap-er. If you got sandy bearings like me though... it might be worth it to just open it up in which case might as well do a fresh LSD imho... About the OBX... In my personal opinion I would just skip it. I did because the competition CLSD was only $100 more and it is of known (+/- OEM) quality. I have read about replacing washers in the OBX, but I do believe also reading continued problems after doing this. I just steered clear and I am glad I did.

Maybe to lower effective displacement? Increase cylinder pressures?

"We are also developing a Hydrogen injection system for cars running on Gasoline or Diesel. Research indicates adding small amounts of Hydrogen gas to the air intake of Gasoline or Diesel burning engines can increase mileage by as much as 25%. If the initial results prove to be accurate, we will also jointly develop a Hydrogen injection system in addition to our Hydrogen conversion system." That is what unitednuclear.com says about their hydrogen setup. So small amounts can result in up to 25% better mileage. Whether or not that is true, I don't know. I heard the company is run by a lunatic too. At the same time, maybe its true - maybe there is something to this. Mmm speculation. What about cranking that 1-3 amps they use up to say 130amps. Then would there be something worth looking into. If the alternator can convert the water to gas fast enough then essentially all one would need is a water tank instead of a gas tank, and a small storage tank for when one goes WOT or start up...

Any guess on weight? Looks Good! For that matter, how much do stock seats weigh in comparison to these aftermarket ones?