24OZ

Can someone please throw a cartech manifold my way...

Thanks Mario. I have started again and downloaded the latest version of Megatune. All seemed to be going well until I opened the msq file of a friend. Megatune said there was 8 warnings and i should review the audit log. When I did this, i got this CLICK

Can someone please tell me what this means? I've only just started to get my MS1 V.3 out and start to play with it with the STIM. CLICK HERE Thanks!

Thanks very much! I haven't had time to check over this but I will do.

Thank you guys! X64v -I don't have some of the wires you describe, so thanks for letting me know how to identify them, will get my volt meter out and check. Just to clarify the black/white and green/yellow go to Coil Negative? Also, you advice not to use the relay board for wiring the coil but when looking at the diagram for the relay board, the wire coming from the Coil Positive goes to the fuel pump via a 10 amp fuse. So I guess without the relay board I should just connect the fuel pump positive wire directly to the coil positive wire? And where shall the 10 amp fuse go? Z-ya- it's a UK 1973 240Z, would I have to take the rev counter out to check? And what difference does it make as to where the wires should go? Thanks again!

Thanks for the response. I forgot to mention that I'm using the VB921 to drive the coil. Hope to get my stock tach working if possible!

It's my understanding that the B/W wire running along the radiator subframe is what provides the + side of the coil with a 12V key on Positive power and also gives the stock tachometer the signal it needs to operate. I am hooking up the wires to the relay board and following this diagram: http://www.diyautotune.com/images/cartech_articles/280zx/280zxt_relay_wiring.gif Now the diagram doesn't take into account of the stock tachometer and it suggests that the Coil + should go to a fuse and then spliced into the fuel pump wire which leads to the fuel pump (Terminal 5) of the relay board, which I think must be a +12V? Bit stuck as to how I should proceed now. Would it be ok to wire up the coil as per the diagram and also connect the B/W 12v+ to the + terminal of the coil also? Thereby regaining my tach signal? Or would this be wrong? Thanks all.

Thanks Bryan, that's exactly what I meant.

Once I have located a 12V + Key on and I have soldered it to to the appropriate place on the MS relay board (top right), can I use any unused 12V+ injector screw in terminal return for my Dizzy 12V+, instead of splicing into the 12V + wire I found? I hope that made sense! Thanks.

Guys, I am trying to wire up MS1 with V3 board, will be triggering the coil via the V3 board, using a Turbo Dizzy with in built CAS and I have a relay board. The car is a UK 240Z with an L28ET. Some extra background, I purchased the car with a 280ZX efi system having been retrofitted to it. So far, all my sensor wiring is done but I've hit a brick wall with the dizzy and coil wiring and need some advice. At the moment I am trying to figure what wiring from my retrofitted 280ZX efi I can keep and what I can discard, so here goes... In Moby's install sticky it says the BW wire goes to the +ve of coil and provides 12V when the ignition switch is turned on. And Moby removed the ballast resistor to get the full 12V. On my car a stock looking WB and a GW wire had been joined together and this went to the B Terminal of the NA 280ZX Dizzy. I suspect that this is the wire which had the ballast resistor, that's why the two are joined together. Make sense? Now why would Moby's wire with the Ballast resistor be BW and mine is WB and GW? I can also see the BW wire that Moby speaks of and it goes to the +ve of the coil. And a B wire which goes to the C part of Dizzy as well as the -ve part of the coil. Now which wire do I need for the +ve of the coil? Just the BW one and shall I put the joined WB & GW to the Turbo DIZZY which needs 12V? Also with the B wire which went to the C of Dizzy and the -ve of coil can i just forget about this wire and just run a wire from the -ve of coil to the relay board? Thanks folks in advance, I'm pulling my hair out here to get to grips with things.

Thanks for the reply. All sensors are wired up now, just leaves me with the coil, dizzy and fuel pump. I'm sure I'll be back pretty soon!

I have MS1 with V3.0 with the Relay Board I am hooking up my turbo CAS Dizzy and I am following Moby's sticky.. I just have a couple of questions I'd be grateful if someone can confirm. Below is the wiring of the dizzy as in Moby's post: Dizzy side ------------ Harness Side Red (12v) B/W White (MS trigger) G/B Green (not used) G/Y Black (gnd) Black Now is the the Red (12V) a key on + or can I directly wire it to the + pole of the battery? Is there a place for it to go on the relay board? I believe the White (MS Trigger) should go to the TACH on the relay board. Also don't quite get where the 1K resistor should be fitted?? The Black (gnd) can just be ground anywhere in the engine bay? Or should that go back to the relay board? I can't see a return for it though. Sorry if my questions seem obvious, I now I am struggling here. Read things over a few times and I know this is not my forte. Thanks folks.

Guys I checked the archives but couldn't find anyone discussing potential problems in fitting 17" diameter wheels to a 240Z. I read only one post on Zcar.com which said that the wheels could cause increased chassis stress. Some of the roads near me are not that great and I don't really want a harsh bumpy ride which will shake the hell out of the chassis. (If I do go for them, they come with zero back spacing, and I'll go for 7" wide as I don't want to extend my arches.) I'd appreciate comments.

Looks very nice indeed. I will have to do mine soon and it's good to get some ideas. Thanks for posting. One question, from the turbo did you use a straight silicone expander and then a 90 degree pipe or a 90 degree silicone expander and then a straight pipe? Just wondered if it makes a difference?

Now I understand. The advice you were given was to not fit a lock washer and a washer but just shorter bolts and a lock washer. I am going to buy some grade 8.8 shorter bolts. Thanks.

Thanks for that, I think that explains it. I actually found the quote which had me thinking, it was from a post on zcar.com and it was addressing someone's concern due to their stock clutch cover bolts bottoming out on the Fidanza flywheel. The guy was going to add washers in an attempt to stop the bolt bottoming out and someone advised against it.... (quoted below) / /

Thanks for your input. I wonder if anyone knows if the stock set up would have used them or not? I have looked at a drawing from a workshop manual and it appears no washers were present, but of course that could be because the illustrator omitted it.

Guys, This may be a dumb ass question but wanted to double check. I seem to recall reading a post, it was either here or somewhere else on the web, regarding the bolts on the clutch cover. (cant find it now) If I recall correctly, someone mentioned that you should not use lock washers or any other washer on the bolts when securing the clutch cover to the flywheel. Something about the bolt needing to take the full pressure of the load. I just wanted to double check this with you all. Thanks.

RoxZ rocks for me, love the colour and the overall stance. But all credit to all the others too, awesome work guys.

OK my tank came back from the shop. They have inserted two bowls inside the tank one inner one and one outer one. I have been promised photos and I will post them up when I get them. I had the tank renu-coated too. One issue is that I had asked the minimum size of the fuel tank supply line to be 12mm but its 10.2mm.. I wonder if this will cause an issue? The rest of my hardline supply is 12mm. Cheers.

Well I have discovered that the turbo is definately shot as the seals are leaking over the turbine wheel, I will probably just open it up as I'd like to get to know my way round turbo internals and see if I can discover what went wrong. Why did you want it? I can send you pictures of the insides if that's what you are after? Here is some external pics of the turbo, as you can see its not the nicest of things. What do people think of the T3 flange? www.xiotis.com/turbo1.JPG www.xiotis.com/turbo2.JPG

Well in that case, I'm not even going to bother using it. It was just the manifold that I was bidding on. The turbo was just a bonus. Thanks for looking.

Sorry to hear, but thank god you seem to have got away with it, can you imagine if you dropped it on the car!! Awesome engine.

I got it for free with a turbo manifold i bought from ebay. It has a T3 flange welded on it.

Hi guys, I picked up this KKK K26 turbo. I would like to know why inside the turbine it's very rough. This is how it looks: www.xiotis.com/turbo.JPG , if someone did this for a reason, then why? There is no shaft movement but it doesn't spin very smoothly by hand, could this be that it just needs lubrication? Worth using? Thanks.