24OZ

Thanks for the help, it's very much appreciated. I managed to remove the studs fairly easily. I firstly want to mount the damper with the wheel using no studs at all, just to ensure there is no clearance issues with the damper and the thickness of the trigger wheel. Then if there is till no issue, I will do as you guys have suggested, counter sink the holes and get flat bedded bolts.

I have no experience in oversize bearings at all, what are the disadvantages of having a crank which needs them? Would it affect power?

No there are no slots for adjustment. I specified a 60 tooth trigger wheel and how I wanted it mounted, ie where my 1st tooth should be after the two missing teeth. I am using a British based EMS called Emerald.

Thanks very much for checking. Seems they overlooked this. I will try and remove the bolts, but I am sure it wont be easy since they have probably been loctited. Just another setback... when will this engine ever be done... Thanks guys.. I may even email Dave to let him know, just so that it wont happen again and others aren't in the same position.

I am really dissapointed to say the least. I am sure Dave didnt get it wrong and I am hoping that I have overlooked something.. but what? Here is a picture of the back of it, the studs are touching the timing cover.

I finally got to the stage of my build to put my damper on, BHJ damper purchased from Rebello with a 60 tooth trigger attached. I push the damper onto the crank and tapped it in centrally with a mallet. I ahve not even tightened it yet and I notice that the bolts holding the trigger wheel are touching the timing cover. Has anyone else found this? What is the fix? Appreciate any help on this as its really holding me back..

Hi all, I have a 4cyl block that I want to restore, it's been sitting for a few months outside without the head, but pistons and conrods had been removed - the crankshaft had been left in it. The bores now have surface rust in them, and the journals of the crankshaft (which would have had the conrods on them) also have surface rust. The first question is can I just wire wool the rust on the bores and then have them rehoned? Secondly, I'm sad to say that the PO had removed the sump from the block and the block has been resting on the crankshaft for a few months. How do i check that no damage has occured to the crank? Is it a case of taking it to a shop and asking them to balance it? I would really like to save this crankshaft if possible as its a stroker crank for that particular engine and is very rare. Also the journals of the crankshaft where the conrods would have been attached are now showing light surface rust, is this ok still? Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks for the input guys. Mine really won't fit though. I wonder if we are using different designs of damper? Mine is a single pulley. I will most probably get a shop to do hone it, the head is off so will take the block with me and get them to measure the snout of the crankshaft, that way any error is down to them.

I just received my BHJ single pulley damper and it looks pretty good. I went to fit it and it won't fit on to my crankshaft as the fit is too tight. The instructions state: "the internal diameter of the damper has been honed to minimum tolerances.... In many circumstances this will create an excessively tight press fit. Carefully measure your crankshaft snout diamater and hone the bore of the damper to give a .001/0.015 press fit" Did any else have to hone theirs? It wasnt something i was anticipating. Any tips? Thanks.

You are da man! Keep up the good work!

That is very nice! You must be happy with that! Very impressed with the lower intercooler mount. Good job Nigel.

Hey that is awesome! Anyone know where I can get one?

As far as I know there is absolutely no differences whatsoever which means you can swap any L series 6 cylinder valve cover as you please.

Ok guys, lets see what Klaus says. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16705#post16705

Im a slow typer, just read your posts Austin.. Thanks for the info.

Ok I will do. Do you have Klaus' email address? I can't find it on the Innovate site other then a contact us form. Thanks.

Just so that I have understood this correctly. If I wanted to use the Innovate LM1 and keep the existing bung in my MSA down pipe (see pic for position of bung below) I could do so "safely", without having to reposition the bung, as long as I use the heatsink from Innovate. RIGHT? Thanks.

Hi there, I use to be able to access the HybridZ site from home but for some reason since Saturday i just get a blank screen saying web page cannot be displayed. (I am currently logging on from work). I can access any other internet site - just not Hybridz. I know the site wasn't down as my Z buddies on Messenger told me it was up and running. Any ideas what is going on with my home pc? I am using internet explorer, I have cleared my history but still no site . Please can any PC gurus advise how I can resolve this. Thanks!

I have an old PALM M500 and it has an expansion slot in the back for a memory stick. As someone else said these PDAs can be purchased dirt cheap now. I wonder if having a pda with the expansion slots mean you can have sticks with different maps and exhange them easily without having to load stuff onto a pc. Glad it's all looking good Ryan.

Hahahah Good One!!!!

Drool.... They look great Gabe! Really do transform the car.

Hi guys/Hi Yasin, Thanks for all the input. Well I took my valve cover off to replace a leaky gasket and noticed a wierd groove in the head between the timing chain and the chain guide. Noticing metal swarf, i thought i had better investigate by pulling the oil pan off and taking off the timing cover. This is the mark i saw when i removed the timing cover off and didnt know what it was: I previously thought that the mark could have been created by a loose timing chain that was hitting the side of the head, but many on here were uncertain due to the shape of the gouge. On removing the timing cover a bolt fell out and we found a variety of other bits in the oil pan.. The bolt was the most interesting bit of all as the head was smoothed out and so were the threads. Since it had fallen from the timing cover area we tried to see if it fitted into the groove in the head and it fitted perfectly: This is a clearer picture of the the mark it made: The oil pan contained other smaller nasties too:

Looks like I'm going to have to completly rebuild my L28ET, thanks to the member of this board that sold it to me... . Has anyone heard of this company called Import Performance Parts, they are offering L28ET engine rebuild kits for a good price, $1199 and that includes Ross or Wiseco forged pistons. Complete Gasket Set Copper Performance Head Gasket ROSS/Wiseco Forged Performance Pistons (86, 86.5, 87mm bore) and (8.5-1, 9.1-1 comp ratio) Performance Rings Performance Wrist Pins TOGA HP Main Bearings (std, 10)* TOGA HP Rod Bearings (std, 10)* ARP Rod Bolts #202-6003 (9mm) Here is the link http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html Has anyone dealt with them?

That car is an Opel manta, they were very popular in Europe.

The LD does look good, is that a turbo manifold attached to it? I have heard of a few LD28 turbos and wondered if the turbo exhaust manifold is the same as the L28ET one? Cruez - there is a well documented veggie car 240Z on the net, here is a video of it http://www.joshuatickell.com/NatGeoGreenCarDSL.mov