24OZ

Very very nice install, attention to detail is superb. Did you know that you can get an electric water pump which actually fits in the original space of the OEM one and you dont need to have an electric motor and a belt driving it? I love the way you have done it, looks very trick, i'm just saying it as a FYI.

I was going to ask you to expand and then i thought let me go and see.. I see your point the width of the frame rail is so thin that a 3/8" pipe won't be able to run across the side of the frame rail without it just sticking out above it.

Guys, i did quite a lot of searching on here on this topic and I am still not too wise about it. I found a company that specialises in restoration of tanks and they are willing to insert baffles into my 240 tank. Please can you guys advise me how it should be done as I want to hear them tell me the same thing. I have decided to not go for a fuel sump under the tank, for aesthetic and safety reason as well as higher insurance premiums. Would a baffled tank without a fuel sump work or am I being unrealistic? And do I have to have an in tank pump for this to work right? Also, since I have changed the size of my fuel supply lines to 3/8" and the fuel return line to 5/16" I will also have them fit the same diameter of inlet and outlet pipes on the tank. I would appreciate your experienced comments, I am hoping that all they need do is to cut the bottom of tank and weld in baffles and that's it. Thank you.

That is good advice thank you.

Awesome man, thats the same IC I purchased but I will have to mount mine higher then yours since I am using the stock front end. Very nice work, I love it how you manage to make everything look OEM. And I also had the same idea of spraying my IC black, now did you actually spray the fins too or just the end tanks?

Sorry for reviving old threads, but at least it means I am doing some research . I am going to replace my fuel return line on my 240Z and this posts interest me, currently the engine is out and the box is still in the car. From the picture it looks like i really need to remove the box in order to remove the old line and install the new line, would you all agree? Thanks.

I am glad you asked that question Jeff as i always wondered the same thing and thanks for the answer Bryan, it makes sense.

Very Nice indeed. I have a question, if they cut open the tank and add baffles then can I get away with not having them weld the fuel sump in?

Thank you guys, for the very helpful remarks. Wheelman, I can see that being a great option for many, I'd like to keep the wheel well though. I may see if its possible to have the tank cut open from below and having baffles welded in with no sump installed.

Thank you for the reply. I have looked closely at this option but I am not 100% happy having fuel in a large canister in the engine bay or at the rear of the car. If its the only option then so be it, but at the moment I am researching to see if its possible to just put in baffles in the existing tank and avoid surge tanks altogether.

I've been reading this thread with great interest. I have a 240Z but I am running EFI with an L28ET engine, I plan on developing 280-300 hp at the wheels. Would the stock return line work or shall I as suggested, make the stock fuel supply line (5/16") into my return line and run a new pipe 3/8" as my supply line. Thanks guys.

This is an old thread that i have just revived.. I am wondering if the fuel return line was the issue in the end. I have a 240Z that I am turbo charging and I wonder if using the stock fuel return will cause me any problems. Thanks

I got ya Tony thanks! Just for interest. I went to my local motor factors today looking for a large pre filter and i didnt find what i was after but found these interesting after pump filters, at least they must be. They are big mamas, the one on the left is for a BMW Z3 3.2 and the other is for an AUDI TT. www.xiotis.com/filter.JPG www.xiotis.com/filter1.JPG

Thank you all for the very helpful comments. I would be interested to hear what you guys think of this integrated filter and surge tank, could it be the answer to my problems? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-SWIRL-POT-FILTER-ESCORT-MK1-MK2-RS-TURBO-COSWORTH_W0QQitemZ150025311376QQihZ005QQcategoryZ21654QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Thanks.

Thanks for your input. I did some more investigating on the Fram i posted above and the Summit site lists it for carburated vehicles so i am now thinking of not using it. By behind the fuel tank, I meant in front of. I have it bolted on the diff cross member.

Guys, I have just bought a new fuel pump and I would like to purchase a decent filter before the pump. My pump is located at the rear behind the fuel tank and I would like to fit a largish cannister type filter before the pump in order to help with fuel starvation, I have a 240Z tank. Reading up the archives people have recommended the FRAM one P/N FRM-HPG1 . Is this a pre fuel filter pump and does it use barbed connectors? What are peoples thoughts if I just used a 280ZX or 300ZX TT filter as a pre pump filter instead, will they work as a pre pump filter? I read that there is a difference between filters designed to be fitted before the pump and filters after the pump Thanks for any advice, words of wisdom etc.. BTW- I do not want to fit a surge tank just yet, but may be one of my options in the future. 240Z Turbo (L28ET)

Pallnet recommends JB Weld. If you go to zcar.com I seem to recall a post on how its done, do a search on pallnet and jb weld.

Thanks for the input guys. I have some Nismo 320cc injectors and I will just use them and raise the Fuel pressure as Tony says.

Thank you for the reply, by JWT I think that means Jim Wolf Technology. I sent them an email stating that I am shooting for 300rwhp so will wait for a reply and see what they recommend and prices. Thanks for your help.

Bump. Anyone?

Mike, That is great advice! If only I could weld...... or at least have a welder.

Thank you for the tip. I will use the one I have for now but it will be still great to see your video.

Thank you very much for the reply. The BOV looks to be in great shape so I will use it, thanks for explaining the terminology of the clip, i had no idea.. and thanks also for letting me in on what tool to use to remove it! I will try and borrow one of those tools and remove the clip and then measure to see what adaptor i need to get that way i can weld the new adaptor to the new larger diameter elbow which I will be purchasing.

Guys, I've got this BOV, it's a JDM HKS one: and i am wondering if I can use it on my L28ET, currently with stock T3. Do you think it will work ok for my application, i want to mount it in a 2.5" elbow pipe but I am also having problems removing it's retaingin clips, what is the trick? I used long nose pliers to compress the two ends to no avail. Also, if you dont think its great please recommend me one, preferably one which isnt too loud, i dont want to sound like a ricer. Thanks!