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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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Hello, Me and my friends have started the first of what's going to be a huge series of "Budget Boosting" your car. If you want to know more details on the topic, check out the YouTube video at "http://youtu.be/5-1SnD5ZY5k" Hopefully you learn something, there is a lot of information in this episode. Have a great boosting day!
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Hello, I am having an issue with my fuel system clogging so I would like to switch to a fuel cell setup. I was mainly looking for something local (Charlotte NC). I would like to keep the cost below $300 as well.
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Hi everyone, Just had my car quit on me. I looked underneath when it died and there was a wet spot under the fuel pump and I could smell the gas. It was giving me intermittent problems before but it seems it's finally bit the bullet. I've been doing a lot of searching to find a replacement pump but I'm having a hard time finding something saying "___ is a swap-in replacement." O'reilly and Autozone sell a couple models but one of the O'reilly pumps listed is a tank-mounted pump so naturally I'm a bit wary of trusting their system. I've also heard of people using the Walboro 255, but after looking at their website and checking around a bit, it seems that it might be too high of a pressure? I don't have a pressure gauge so I'm also wary of buying this, not to mention I've heard it takes some fab work to get it in. Any help is appreciated as always. - Pac Man
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Hey all I have a 1978 280z I've been trying to diagnose a problem I've been having for the last month and a half or so. Lately the problem has escalated and is affecting drivability. Fuel cuts out a lot , like it's "falling on it's face" I know it's not an electrical problem, vacuum is good, haven't done a fuel pressure test, I replaced my inline and under the hood fuel filters no change, been running fuel system cleaner for the last 3 weeks, I was starting to get the idea that maybe the catalytic converter could be clogged, but I'm not sure. I definitely think that is the problem or it's a fuel delivery issue, and would like some help diagnosing the problem. car is still somewhat drivable under slow acceleration, it is my daily driver. it also idles fine and responds to throttle normally when in neutral. also passed smog about five months ago, all of the cylinders are running slightly lean except cylinder 5 which is burning oil (per spark plug inspection). I work m-f 9-5pm so it's difficult for me to take my car in to a mechanic, any ideas would be appreciated and yes I have been using the search function and trying many things before I finally decided to make this post. I may take a day off next week to take the car into datsun alley in signal hill by my house, but until then I'll be trying to get it up an running myself. Another things is that it idles slightly higher (~200 rpms) after being driven for around 20 minutes.
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Ok I'm about ready to purchase my fuel setup (1 month out or less) and here's my delimma... I am using this car for almost everything: -daily driver -autocross/road coarse track days -weekend get away car with gf What's the most reliable setup for a fuel system using an aftermarket fuel cell? Pros and cons of each setup and I'm up for others ideas. I'm more than likely going with the following: -Corvette FPR (WIX 33737) -Walbro 255 Kit (GSL392) -Fuel Filter -Fuel Shut Off Valve near tank (ease of changing filters/pumps etc...) -16 or 20 gallon fuel cell with dual -8AN sump tank (plastic) from summit/jegs with fuel level sender for autometer gauges 0-90ohm... The question is which line setup is more long term without using SS hardlines? -Push Lock Hoses from major parts sellers (haven't seen it used often) -Aluminum Hardlines for bulk of fuel setup (worried about rubbing holes over long term/but cheaper for lines and fittings/still need braided for some sections/easy to flare) -SS Braided Lines (vapors coming through lines over time/how often to replace/more expensive) My HP goal is 350-375rwhp at the most so I don't worry about breaking my 300ZXT CV's as often. Hence the -6AN line choice. Thanks for the help in advance!
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hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.
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hey guys, i have a 77 280z and i recently replaced my fuel pressure regulator with a cheap adjustable aftermarket one to see if would fix a other problem "stupid move". this regulator said adjustable but it really wasnt so it was running around 50+ psi.. i never really ran it on that kind of psi but the otherday i had to move it out of my driveway for a second and it seemed to be running normal then all the suddin it started running insanly terible. it seemed to idle ok but when you touched the throttle it would instantly sputter. whell after a while of trying to solve this problem i fell unsuccessful and put it back in the garage. a few days later i try to start it and it will barly start and sounds like its only running on 3-ish cylinders and does not idle. still cant figure it out, a day later i go and try agian and then it fires maybe once for one or two cylinders and dies. im not sure what this problem could be. my best guess is that because of the high psi it has broken or jammed some or all of the injectors. today i replaced the regulator with the stock one and banged on all the injectors to see if they would come un-stuck. i did have some breif success, it started and ran on 3-ish cylinders agian. if you guys have any idea of what this could be please let me know, thank you . sorry for the long ass story.
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I have a '81 280ZX that runs pretty good until yesterday that is. She runs but on a 100 mile trip she drank just over 6 gallons of gas...WTH could be the cause here? Any help would be appreciated.