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Showing results for tags 'AEM'.
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I've had a 280Z in my possession for years now, and I got what was essentially a free 1JZ after I sold the manual trans ecu and harness from it. I never intended to swap a 1JZ in a Datsun, but after holding onto both since around the date I joined the forums, I started collecting more parts over the years and decided it was time to start the swap process. The first major hurdle turned out to be my 75 280Z's body. While outside the car looked great for its age, under years of dirt and what turned out to be bondo, the Alabama/Florida weather wasn't kind to the car at all. Everything from the floorpans forward had rusted out, including the shock towers and frame rails. One quick trip from Colorado to the west coast later and I had a new to me 1977 280Z shell that had spent its life in Cali, and had very little rust. Even better was what rust the car did have wasn't rusted at all on my 1975 280Z. With their powers combined, I had a fairly rust free shell to work with. Onto the motor, The parts collection started early, but has been revised a few times. I used to have a completely built up 180SX and some of the parts intended for it were originally slated for the 1JZ. After a series of trades and deals, I ended up with a 9174 EFR with an aluminum center section and 1.05 A/R T4 hotside. I feel that this is going to be way more turbo than I need for a 280Z but whatever, I can't seem to get rid of the thing for a smaller turbo. My 1JZ head had some odd wear, and as I was trying to decide if I wanted to try and machine it and bring its flow up to anything near what a stock 2JZ head can do, a vvti 2JZGTE popped up for sale and I scooped it up with the assumption that if 1.5JZ swaps are a thing, then going the other way has to work. Turns out Aaron from Driftmotion has already been down this path with quite a bit of success, and after speaking with him while ordering parts, I'm glad I took the plunge. Supporting mods on the 1JZ bottom end are: Weisco 86.5mm 9.5:1 pistons ARP rod bolts for stock 1JZ rods ARP head studs I'll have the bottom end machined and the assembly re-balanced with the new pistons and rod bolts. Should be fun. Anyone know of a machine shop near Denver with a 2JZ torque plate? Fuel system/ecu: Drift motion -8 Fuel rail Donkeypower 1300cc injectors (EV14 bosch type). DW Surge tank with twin AEM e85 044 clones. Fuel lab fpr and filters GM Flex fuel sensor for E85 AEM Infinity 6 Standalone I'll likely have the stock 280Z tank popped apart, cleaned out and coated since with the surge tank I should have enough fuel to do whatever I want. One thing I learned in my quest for DBW is aside from being heavy, the USDM 2JZGTE (or possible early JDM, not 100% sure) throttle body doesn't play well with the VVTI solenoid. In fact, they don't fit due to the TPS sensor being in the way. However, I'm totally okay with that, as I didn't want to deal with installing a throttle cable anyway. The plan from the start was to switch the TB out with something similarly sized in diameter, and that ended up being a 350Z throttle body. For wiring I'll simply move what would have been IACV wiring about 18" further forward. Please excuse the messy garage, its normally much more organized but trying to cram 2 shells and a Ducati in there left me with little space. I'm having to play garage tetris to store all of this crap until I can haul away the blue shell. Here is the 2JZGTE vvti head on the 1JZ bottom end. All of this stuff is eliminated simply by going DBW with the AEM infinity 6 with my 350Z TB and pedal combo. Quite the size difference. The biggest irony is that if the bolt pattern on the 2JZ thottle body was the same for the top two bolts as it is for the bottom two studs, this would be a bolt on affair. Sadly, only the bottom two studs line up. No issues with the throttle blade hitting the inside of the manifold. I'll likely end up not using the bottom bolt holes at all, and instead center up a plate and weld it to the intake to use as a new flange. One of the last engine parts I need is a flywheel/clutch. I'm using a milled down 350Z CD009 transmission. What I'm hoping to do is just run a clutch kit that lets me swap the clutch hub/disc out for a Nissan one and lets me keep my 2JZ flywheel. OS Giken, ATS work this way as the clutch disc part number is universal to all their kits. The only thing that changes is the center hub. The thousand dollar question however is simply will there be enough engagement of the input shaft on the transmission to make this work long term. I also got my Greddy T88 turbo manifold on there and my 9174EFR fits quite nicely on it. The only thing to do to the manifold now is cut off the 4-Bolt WG flange and weld on a v-band for my Turbosmart WG. For anyone wondering what the CD009 looks like bolted up to a 1JZGTE with a VVTI 2JZ head, here you go.
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Thought I would actually post my build in the project section since this is a project. As the story goes my 1995 240sx was stolen on 10/21/12. Had SR20DET S15 with the S15 6speed, Nistune ECU management. Tomei 272/272 cams. 750cc injectors, Z32 MAF. AEM tru-boost controller. Ran the J30 dif with abs sensor that I used with a Digital decoder to convert signal for the speedo. Full gauge setup last tune done on the car in July put 305 HP to the rear wheels at 15lbs of boost. Car had working A/C. Fortune 500 coilovers, Isis rear adjustable suspension. Paint and body work done in July as well, Navan front bumper, side skirts and rear valiance. Here is a dyno pull!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20110923_162204.mp4.html Here is a run at the track!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20120113_185224.mp4.html The gray 240 is a friend of mines, He runs deep into the 11's at the track makes 390hp runs sticky drag radials all with A/C! Car was recovered 3 days later stripped. Did not have full coverage, my stupidity. Makes ya sick. Now onto the next project. Found thru the internet in Salt Lake City Utah. Car originally bought by person when living in California. Car was originally green and repainted in the early 80’s red. Late model 1974 260Z. Car had updated DGV carbs installed. Western Star wheels and headlight covers with a rear deck louver. Car ran great for short trips to work and out. But my first road trip to a car show about 60 miles away the car overheated on the freeway cruising at 70mph. So switched out for a new radiator and thermostat. First upgrades was a twin pipe exhaust through twin glass packs. Sound is awesome. Power is limited. I was originally going do a head swap, raise the compression and run triple 2 barrels. I wanted to get 200+ hp. After driving the car for 3 months and missing the pull of a turbo, I decided to do a turbo. Didn’t help that a close friend drives a Golf daily with 400+ hp to the front wheels and owns a tuning shop. I decided from research (not deep enough to add a turbo to the 260Z motor because I am over 4 times that cost so far and still counting). Looking it over I thought with intercooler and buying all the parts that I could do this with only about $1500 out of pocket and I would have a turbo driver! HAHAHAHA..... Plans are to be a driver with some track use. Here are some of my trips to time attacks and road course racing. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/Tooquick260z/20130216_150116_zps0eee095d.mp4.html At the point of putting the parts together and driving my car some issues started happening to the 40 year old car. The transmission that worked flawlessly started being difficult to put in first gear (after removal realized it was the slave cylinder no pressure). It developed an exhaust leak, thought it was the new exhaust that I installed. During removal of the intake realized that the #6 cylinder exhaust bolts were gone, yeah missing. Also the head gasket was leaking. I found great deals on all the parts and put them together. Turbo, ECU, AFM, wiring harness etc. Look at the boxes of parts WOW! I located a P90 head and had it rebuilt and flycut. Bought some cam tower shims from Derek, member on hear from Ocala. I put new valves from the 75-78 head with some addition spring spacers got them lined up. Before.... After.... Bolted to the head with cam timing done. Cleaned the engine compartment and painted with a few coats of clear. Looks like a deep dark hole where all the money has gone. Who’s counting right! While this was going on my brother toasted his 1993 300zx by letting the timing belt break, can you say interference. With the tranny going bad(auto) and a/c problems and other issues he decided to part it out. So, I purchased a lot of the parts from him. Breaks, Diff, MAF, Master cylinder and booster, and drive shaft to put in my Z. To put all that stuff on I purchased the rear setup from TechnoToyTuning. Nice stuff. Rear Z32 diff mounts, coilovers with Tokico’s. Old and new clutch, I should hook now!!! Handle the projected 250 HP! So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke. He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed. Znke even machined the speed access hole for the S30 speedo cable. He got the 4.11 speedo gear that will work great with the Z32 4.09 rear diff. Tranny installed and mounted in Stock tranny mount! Street T installed to run the turbo oiling line. Electric fans installed,,,, Isis 12" fans Stay tuned for the process....... -
I read on XJared's S130 VK56 build over on the Nicoclub that he used an AEM Honda 30-1050U box to get his car running and I see a local classified ad for a Series 2 Honda box. I'm wondering if it will work, seller doesn't remember exact model number just that is a series 2 (as evidenced by the physical ecu box labeling); the AEM website lists the following as specs: Up to 12 peak and hold injector drivers Up to 8 direct-fire coil outputs Up to 16 general-purpose outputs Up to 8 definable switch inputs Up to 4 EGT inputs with fuel trim 1MB of internal data logging Wondering if this would work for my VK56 S30 project that I am currently (slowly) working on? I can't PM XJared on Nicoforums because I don't have enough posts to enable the feature. I did post on his build thread asking about this possibilities but I thought I would post here as well since I am sure some of you are way beyond me in ECU/ECM knowledge and capabilities. I don't see any problems where it will handle 12 injectors and 8 direct fire coils. I'd feel better about bugging the seller anymore about the price, and driving the hour to get it, if I knew for sure I could make it work. I also know one of the local custom shops mentioned they have worked with AEM boxes while tuning on their dyno but they don't sell them directly. Thanks!
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake. -
Just like the title says, this is a progress video of my 240z that I made last night. It's not perfect but check it out and I hope you enjoy it. Special appearance of a well known car nut celebrity! http://www.youtube.com/embed/Kwy4Ow3O7fg
