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Showing results for tags 'Engine'.
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Hey all, quick question that I'm having trouble finding the answer to. I'm about to fab up the engine mounts for my RB25 and I've read online somewhere sometime ago that I needed to level out the engine using the flat flange on the bottom for the oil pan. That makes sense to me, but when I try to twist the engine to be flat it pushed my transmission shifter into the passenger's side of the trans tunnel. is it better to go off of the transmission shifter and get the exactly flat or to go off of the bottom of the oil flange? Also, I know that the oil pan has a bit of an a
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I finally got the chance to take off the valve cover and check the valve lash clearances and I noticed a strange consistency with my measurements. I have measured every exhaust valve clearance to be exactly .009mm and every intake valve clearance was between .004-.006mm except for one. The one valve was too tight for the smallest feeler gauge which was .004. To measure, I used a feeler gauge to feel for the highest gauge where it could slide between the cam and the lash pad while the lobes were facing straight up. This was also done with a cold engine. Now, I know the
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Selling a new, uninstalled Stage III engine from a project that I ended up selling. L28 Core DSI Stage III engine (roughly 3.0 Liters) DSI pistons (89mm) DSI H-beam rods L28 crank Light weight Chromoley flywheel Exedy Stage-II Clutch kit Spark Plug wires & plugs Rear Engine Plate Fuel pump block off plate Asking $6000
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Hello Team, Anyone got any recommendations on places to purchase replacement engine mounts for a 280zx? Are any engine mounts from other Nissan's or Datsun's compatible? Would appreciate any advice on this.
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Hey everyone! I don't know if you know me but my name is Mike Garcia and I am owner/builder of the Overkill Z. Years ago when I was building my car while searching for an engine mount for my S30 I came across John Coffey here on HybridZ. After looking at the other options I instantly felt his was the best designed and strongest option. I bought one and used it in my build. We became friends but missed the opportunity to buy the cross member JIG before his passing. However fait has a funny way of working.... I recently moved to Southern California when I saw the Jig was up for sale do -
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/
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Whenever I switch my Z into reverse or try to use my turn signal it will kill the engine, as a result it has become nearly undrivable. Has anyone else ever had this problem? If so, please include your solution. Thank you.
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Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor
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I'm looking for a local machine shop in the Dallas / Fort Worth area (ideally, but would be willing to travel, if necessary). I want to build my stroker bottom end, and my free time is limited. I'd like to have my F54 block bored, balance crankshaft, port and polish P90 head, etc. I'd like to know if either of my available F54 blocks can support an 89mm bore. Is there anybody nearby that still work on the L28's?
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Into a S30 or S130, auto or manual, I'm always thinking circuit racing so a four is good to get the weight back for 50/50 weight distribution or even some rear bias to help get the power down out of corners. Guess that the 4 would be lighter than the L6 too, lighter is good in these old flexy chassis and of course helps power to weight. Have not researched the power these 4's are making but I'm guessing 'sufficient'. Working on another race car at the moment but do have a nice 2+0 280ZX roller sitting there doing nothing;. Hmmmm.
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This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but the -
Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else?
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I had a slight ticking sound in my engine a while ago and decided to adjust my valve lashes. I had no issues adjusting them, but when I put everything back in place I noticed a knocking noise coming from then engine, and it smells like its burning oil, my spark plugs are all black as well. I dont know what might have caused the knocking sound, as it wasn't there before. Could it be a collapsed lifter or a bad stem seal? I'll attach a video of the engine running, you can hear the knocking pretty clearly. This thing is driving me nuts.. I try to fix one proble
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I took the valve cover off today to adjust my valve lashes, I tried to clean it as much as I could with simple green degreaser. Would it be safe to reattach in this condition? Or should I continue to clean it completely? The seals on the inside around the baffle plate look worn out and I'm worried some of it will get into the engine, some of it chipped off while I was scrubbing it. Is there any way I can scape off the old sealing and re seal the edges? Or do I need a new valve cover?
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Hey Guys, After 3years of racing the OverkillZ life got in the way. new house,new jobs, other cars, Moved to SOCAL, ect ect... But I am back getting the car back together with a lot of upgrades. Besides that I came into the opportunity to buy Johns old JIG used to make the Betamotorsports 2jz/1jz Cross member!!!! I was planning to buy it years ago before is passing however DevilZ got to it first. Now I have it and the ability to PRODUCE THEM. I can make them to order at $350 a unit. They will come with all the original instructions and built on the original jig just as John did.
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Good morning from the hurricane capital of America. I have often read the postings on the site and found them interesting and helpful. By the way I am a NEWBIE to the site but not to S30 cars. I have spent many years crawling around them and know them quite intimately, as do most of you. So I look forward to reading more as I complete restoration on #6333. But for now I am in search of air filters for my 47mm SK/OER carbs. TATSUMI out of Japan stocks them but someone in America does also but my smart device out started me and I by accidentally erased all my links during a ROUTINE purging of my
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Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a
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Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California
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My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mech
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So I have a 76 280Z 2+2 with a rough idle when cold. It also doesn't really like starting from cold. Have to give it gas to get it going. Once it heats up it is fine. But here is the kicker, on cold idle it seems to suck air up the tail pipe, which stops when it warms up. I held a lighter up to the tailpipe and watched the flame go up the tail pipe. It also smells like it is running rich, with a glorious off throttle backfire and some black smoke. Timing is good, fuel system has been pretty much completely replaced, compression was also checked, all 6 cylinders right around 135-150, not
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Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
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Howdy! anyone know where i can buy a new or secondhand L28ET motor for my 240z? Ive heard this is an easy swap that is very beneficial. Thanks!
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Looking for one in running condition, intake and exhaust headers not necessary. A good-quality long block is acceptable also. I'm in Arizona and willing to drive up to 1 state away to pick up, but we could figure out shipping from anywhere else also.
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From the album: 280Z Project - in progress
Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake. -
Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting cle
