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Showing results for tags 'Clutch'.
Found 11 results
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Car was running, went away to school came back and car still runs but no clutch pedal all of a sudden.... got under the car the slave cylinder moves when clutch is pressed. moves about 1/2" it looks like. open slave cylinder there was fluid. couldnt see any obvious leaks... where could issue be from? press the clutch pedal and theres no resistance and it wont go into gear. any ideas would be wonderful thanks!
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I have a 1972 240z with an L28 and 5 speed transmission, all swapped before I got the car. I just finished a clutch replacement where I; replaced the rear main seal, pilot bushing, clutch and pressure plate, had the flywheel resurfaced and replaced the the outer seals and gasket on the transmission. Refilled transmission with Redline MT-90 and bled the slave cylinder with Valvoline DOT 3&4 synthetic brake fluid. I did all this just to find out that it was the hydraulic system, the clutch was fine. I believe my problem is that I ordered a 1977 slave cylinder however I for some reason still have the 'old' clutch fork with the hole for the adjustable rod. I thought no problem Ill just Swap the adjustable rod from the one on the car with the new one. I did this and tried to properly adjust the slave cylinder but was a bit confused by the fsm. should I push the slave cylinder rod all the way in and pull the fork to the back of the car then adjust the nut to 1.5 turns out from touching the fork? Will this setup not work and I should order a new '72 slave? The car is current on stands and when I start the car in first with the clutch in the wheel still spin. -
******edit, one week later: seems the slave cylinders are all the same, even though the auto part stores have different photos for different years or car models.. i bought the "wrong" one, which had a larger outer diameter, and it worked perfectly. Hi! situation: I'm in a bind, I had to leave my car in a parking lot somewhere, and i need to fix the car and drive it somewhere safe like, ASAP. QUESTION: does anyone one know if the turbo and non turbo slave cylinder are interchangeable and if not, why? here is the story: I have a 1983 280zx. a bit of a Frankenstein, with parts from different cars, rebuilt by the previous owner. i was driving today, and I ended up stalling twice while trying to leave a light. the third time I realized i had a hard time engaging first. I managed to limp to a parking lot and realized that I had no more clutch. I looked, and the clutch slave cylinder is dead. it puked all over the place. The car is in a restaurant parking lot, I had to leave it there, and it'll spend the overnight there (at least, hopefully not more). I pulled the slave out, and it looks like this I made a bunch of calls, and the local auto parts could get me within a day the NON TURBO slave, which I believe looks like this I'm wondering if there is a difference. since none of the places have it in stock, if I order it I can't return it.. also that means i'll have lost a day waiting for it. thanks
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Hi all, My clutch won't engage or disengage and I can't seem to figure out the issue. It's a 280zx 5 speed transmission, dual center force clutch, has the 280zx slave cylinder as well. Lines are bled properly, new slave cylinder installed and bled. It seems as thought the slave cylinder will not move the fork which is leading me to think its the throw out bearing but I would appreciate any insight on the topic. Thanks! Chris
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Hi Guys, This may have been coverd already. If it has please excuse me. I've been researching Z31 flywheels and clutch/pressure plate setups. I've got a Shiro I'm restoring and figuring out the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disc combinations has been interesting. The pressure plates for the 240mm and 250mm flywheels are not interchangable (the pressure plate bolts holes and pins are further out on the 250mm flywheel. The stock 240mm pressure plates/clutch setups are known to generally hold better than the stock 250mm pressure plates/clutch setups. There are new stock-ish 250mm flywheels available (Rhino etc.) as opposed to no new stock-ish 240mm flywheels (they maybe out there I just could not find them). So, here is my solution, I'm going to use a 240mm clutch disc with a 250mm pressure plate on a 250mm flywheel. Using slightly smaller disc clutches on slightly larger pressure plates is an old school perormance trick that was used back in the 60's and 70's on muscle cars. The theory being that applying the same pressure to a smaller area makes for greater presure between the flywheel and clutch surface. Yes I know the lightened flywheels are a lot of fun, I've had them on stroked L6s. Yes I know that Centerforce now has a dual friction clutch/pressure plate setup for the 250mm flywheel (bit pricey though). Yes I've read about using 90-96 300ZX pressure plates and 350ZX pressure plates on the Z31 250mm flywheels. My set up will be a 240mm Centerforce Dual Fricton clutch disc, stock 250mm Exedy pressure plate, new stock-ish Rhino 250mm flywheel. I'm building the engine to 400 hp, and want a clutch set up capable of holding up to occasional burn outs, while keeping the pedal pressure stock as this will be my daily driver and I plan to put a lot of miles on it. Anyway, for you guys with tight budgets and you guys using their Zs as daily drivers this might be a option. I've fitted this combo up and everything matches up. I haven't installed yet, but I'll post results when I do. So wait for me to post the results before doing this setup yourself. If anyone else has done a similar setup, I'd like to hear about your results. I'd also like to hear from folks that are using the 90-96 300zx and 350ZX pressure plates and clutches on stock Z31 250mm flywheels. Sorry for the length of the post, thanks for your interest. -
Hello, I own a 76 280z which is all bone stock, and the clutch is starting to really slip, almost undriveable, and a friend of mine offered me, his used clutch which is almost new, the reason being hes going to be making about 600-700 hp on his ls1 swapped 300z. But he offered me to have his old clutch because he just ordered a new racing clutch for his car, which was about 1700-2000$ and I was just wondering if a RB25 clutch would fit with the L28 transmission?? Thanks in advance.
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Any recommendations for a quality/high performance clutch for a 1974 260z?
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I have a 1974 260z and the clutch grabs and holds in first gear and it slips in all the others. Any ideas why it does this? Shouldn't it be slipping in first gear if the clutch was shot?
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I know this has been discussed millions of times in the past. I did a search of the entire forums and it looks like there hasn't been a recent post in the last 12 months about clutches for those of us with higher horsepower turbo L28s. While old topics are OK on some subjects, I think clutches are one of those always evolving parts. Sometimes X clutch from 5 years ago was junk and it's a reputable product today (and vice versa). I'm currently looking for one to handle what I hope my Z can put out, which is around 350ft/lbs (so the clutch should hold around 400). I'm using a stock lightened flywheel. I'd also like the clutch to not drain my bank account because we all know there's some clutches that are $2,000 that are just as good as a $300 one (You supra guys know this all too well!) Requirements. about 400ft/lbs of grip Be able to be driven on the street Be able to be driven on the occasional track event or autocross/drag pass. Be reliable I was planning on getting one from South Bend Clutch, but they apparantly do not like to respond to e-mails and calling results in speaking to a human, only to be sent to voicemail. Are there any good deals out there right now? What are the best options these days? -
looking for some parts to swap in my l28et before my wedding in two months, (smoke screen burnout is me dream when leaving in gettaway car, 240z) so i prefer cheap and local to 92128, San Diego Area i'll pick up. my number is 760-315-2372 if there are some things missing chime in. obx lsd for r200 or any other cheap option, 350z clutch, 280z gas tank, fuel line, 255lph external walbro pump, 3" v-band etc.. i have wire harness, ecu, and engine. im betting the injectors are toast. thanks!!! -
Wondering if some of you with RB swaps have any recommendations on my push-type clutch dilemma in my 240z. So, I have followed every step in the RB/Z32 transmission swap and converted my setup to a push-type. Everything is installed, although the clutch fork seems to be stuck and the slave cylinder can't push the fork. The clutch I am using is a brand new ACT 300zx NA clutch kit. Also, I have verified that the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder work properly. Has anyone had this problem? Do people usually change the clutch master cylinder as well in these swaps? Can't think of anything else, but please chime in... Thanks
