Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Strut'.
Found 8 results
-
I have a great solution for covering the open holes created by the addition of adjustable camber plates to the rear suspension. 3”, Black, rubber, pipe caps do the trick. eliminates road noise and keeps burnout smoke on the exterior of the car.
-
Having pulled my spindle pins three times in the past few years and somehow managing to save them. On my last attempt I finials messed up the threads to the point were replacement was going to be a must. Having done some digging around I decided to go the 5/8 bolt route There are many people who say do not do this but if you look at the techno tuning toys rear lower control arms. Granted they are using a hime joint they use a 5/8 bolt. On these grounds I set off to find the right bolt for the job and this is what I came up with. From Fastenal a 5/8-11 x11 yz8 haven taken many measurements and driving the people at Fastenal crazy we decided that this was the best bolt for the job at hand. I hope this helps for anyone considering doing this swap and any info on pros or cons would be appreciated. And here are a few photos of the bolt I will be using. And they cost only $12.90 each . Fastenal part #15335 -
Looking for a FRONT-RIGHT strut housing for my 1973 240Z. Anybody have one lying around? I have a nice set of inspection lids - primered and ready to go if you are interested in a trade - or of course, CASH. Thanks FOUND! thanks HybridZ and Z240!
-
I just installed a set of Vogtland springs, and they lowered the car an even 2". Its a little lower than i would have liked, but its alright. But i am concerned about the amount of travel it took away from the suspension. It looks like there is only about an inch left of travel before bottoming out. Is this normal?
-
Hello all. I'm currently looking at the potential of using Bilstein 34-030936 B6 HD Struts in a coilover conversion (77' 280z). This strut is designed to fit a 94-98 SAAB 900, various models. I have searched and read as much as I can on this site regarding this mod. This option was mentioned by Justin Olson (thread/post) but it doesn't appear that a great deal of research was actually put into this particular strut as Justin chose to go with the 3000GT option. According to Justin and other related posts, these Bilstein struts (36mm) have the following specs: Bilstein 34-030936 (formerly PE3-3093-H0): Body Length: 13.75" Compressed Length: 14.75" Extended Length: 20.50" Stroke: 5.75" Damping (rebound/compression): 230/60 It appear this would be a relatively good match to the Z with springs in the neighborhood of 250 lb/in but obviously a re-valve would be required for optimum performance. I'd greatly appreciate any inputs/thoughts you have on this mod or this strut specifically. Does anyone know if the upper mounting diameter is the common Bilstein 14mm? I'm planning to use Ground Control Camber/Caster plates. -
I am going back in with all my suspension and have come to the realization that I do not know if I should use the gland nut washers on my car. The whole reason I pulled it apart was to get rid of the clunk I had and after some digging around I found that the whole thing might be due to the gland nuts not being tight or the use of the washer that came with the Tokico blues I installed a few years ago any help would be great. car info : 1975 280z , Tokico hp blues,(( msa? lowering springs just being installed)) Thanks ! Will S. with out washer in with washer Gland nut wrench
-
Looking for 240Z Strut mounting insulators (qty. 2) or 280Z fronts would work. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
-
Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo
